German Catalog 2006 USE THIS ONE.qxp - Michael Skurnik Wines

least of which is having a baby on the way! His wines,
while obviously great, are not easily great; they remind
me of Jamek in a sense — they reward your full attention,
they ask to be studied, and they reveal themselves
deliberately. Indeed they often seem to carry more complexity
than they can physically hold.
Sometimes I am extremely emotional, so much so I
cannot summon language of sufficient power to convey
it, and I regret the times I squandered such language on
Dynamic young vintner making weighty, sensa-
wagner-stempel at a glance:
tional Nahe-like porphyry-wines, already among
the very best in Rheinhessen, and certain to be THE next superstar-estate in the region.
how the wines taste:
Generous, complex and polished, serene graceful
strength and exotic haunting flavors.
GWG-012L2005 Siefersheimer Riesling Trocken, 1.0 Liter
This offers absurd quality in its echelon, but it isn’t always an “easy” wine. Still, you say
you want dry German Rieslings and here’s one at its austere best! A pointedly stony
Riesling nose, with even a little birch-singe of botrytis; the palate is stern and fervent
and adamantly dry; a real granite-powder of mineral, and though dry it’s not at all
sharp; just spring-water snappy, like Badoit. By the way, Daniel doesn’t exclude the
possibility of making the wine nominally “sweeter” (i.e., less dry but hardly sweet)
before bottling; I tasted it as it came from the cask.
SOS: minus-1 (now-3 years, again 8-11 years)
GWG-013 2005 Siefersheimer Silvaner Trocken
WOW.
This is crunchier and brighter than many growers’ Rieslings. Super-clear nose like heirloom
potatoes; the palate is juicy and as savory as grilled zucchini; keen enough to
quench thirst yet just crammed with spiel and substance. Sommelieres looking for the
unusual and tasty should glom onto this baby.
SOMMELIER ALERT! SOS: 0 (now-4 years)
THREE DRY RIESLINGS
undeserving occasions. All I can manage at these times is
an inarticulate yammer, not because there’s too little to
say, but rather too much. Daniel Wagner’s wines (you
knew I’d tie this together didn’t you?) can remind me of
the wines Hans-Günter Schwarz made at Müller-Catoir,
seeming to almost stammer with complexity. You wonder
how a mere wine can contain so much information. I urge
you to approach these wines with the quality of attention
you reserve for the elite: They deserve it.
GWG-014 2005 Siefersheimer Estate Riesling Trocken +
GWG-015 2005 Siefersheimer Riesling Trocken “Vom Porphyr” (++)
At first I didn’t think I’d offer the “basic” Riesling, preferring to present the more
“important” porphyr; then I tasted the little guy and was blown away — I mean, it tasted
like Hengst from Josmeyer — a ton of boucherie and a cellar-full of heirloom apples;
the texture is pure crystal and satin with full physio-”sweetness”; lime and moonglow
pear. One tingles with satisfaction!
The Porphyr was unfinished, not even filtered yet, a hasty assemblage from a bunch of
casks, and it seemed overstated and heady, with a schnappsy finish. But if I’m wrong it
will be ridiculously great! The wine’s playing with fire, but for all I know it may end up
lighting a votive candle, and I’m into giving this great vintner the benefit of the doubt.
SOS: 0 (for both) (now-4 years, again 12-16 years)
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RHEINHESSEN WINES