German Catalog 2006 USE THIS ONE.qxp - Michael Skurnik Wines

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iv contents Theise Manifesto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .i Let Us Write Your Order For You . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .vi Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Continuing New Approach to Tasting Notes . . . . . . . . .6 Making the Case for German Wines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Making the Case for Auslese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Principles of Selection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Gray-Marketers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 A New Way to Measure Sweetness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 Core List Wines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Dry German Wines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 More Principles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Wine Approach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Tasting Blind . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 2005 Vintage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Earlier Vintages Revisited . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 If I Were Ruler of the World . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 What is a Palate? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 How German Wines Age . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 What To Drink Now . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 The Question of Tartrates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Label Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 Plusses and The Quest For Perfection . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 SOMMELIER ALERT! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 Subject: Why Riesling? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Mosel Regionals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Selbach-Oster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 Erich Jakoby-Mathy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 Meulenhof/Erben Justen Ehlen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Alfred Merkelbach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Why Fuss About Connections? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61 Joh. Jos. Christoffel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62 Heribert Kerpen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 Willi Schaefer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 A.J. Adam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 Reuscher-Haart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 Hoffmann-Simon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76 Weingut Ansgar Clüsserath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78
A Primer on Terroir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 Carl Loewen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 Carl Schmitt-Wagner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84 Karlsmühle-Geiben . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 Is All Taste Equally Valid? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 MITTELRHEIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90 Florian Weingart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Toni Jost . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93 SOS: A New Way to Measure Sweetness . . . . . . . . . .95 NAHE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 Dönnhoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 Helmut Mathern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104 The Matter of Globalization . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106 Jakob Schneider . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Weingut Hexamer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111 Kruger-Rumpf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114 Schlossgut Diel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117 RHEINHESSEN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .121 J.u.H.A. Strub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122 Take Me To Your Liter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .127 Wagner-Stempel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128 POINTS: what’s the point? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .131 Weingut Geil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132 Gernot Gysler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134 Christian-Wilhelm Bernhard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136 Tasting Versus Drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138 Half-Bottle Offering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139 RHEINGAU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140 Josef Leitz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142 Harvest at Leitz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146 Spreitzer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .147 Why Does Place-Specificity Matter? . . . . . . . . . . . . .150 PFALZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .152 Müller-Catoir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154 Josef Biffar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158 Scheurebe: What Gives? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160 Dr. Deinhard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .161 Eugen Müller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164 Herbert Messmer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .167 Theo Minges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .170 Koehler-Ruprecht . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .173 Kurt Darting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .176 A Little Essay About Nothing Much . . . . . . . . . . . . .179 v
Page 1: terry theise estate selections Impo
Page 4 and 5: ii “Within every effort there has
Page 8 and 9: vi LET US WRITE YOUR ORDER FOR YOU!
Page 10 and 11: 2 These things coincided with a dec
Page 12 and 13: 4 View of the Mosel. human care and
Page 14 and 15: 6 Continuing New Approach to Tastin
Page 16 and 17: 8 Making the Case For German Wines
Page 18 and 19: 10 I’m sure I didn’t convert th
Page 20 and 21: 12 Principles of Selection in this
Page 22 and 23: 14 Belgium, and they immediately ru
Page 24 and 25: 16 Core-List Wines The core-list, w
Page 26 and 27: 18 to know better) that the great d
Page 28 and 29: 20 How I Approach Wine, or Let Wine
Page 30 and 31: 22 time and lots of flavor. Due to
Page 32 and 33: 24 SHORT-LIST FOR ROCKHEADS: Dr Dei
Page 34 and 35: 26 “Antiques” 2001 has modestly
Page 36 and 37: 28 Ah but this isn’t P.C., you se
Page 38 and 39: 30 How German Wines Age To define a
Page 40 and 41: 32 Label Basics German labels are s
Page 42 and 43: 34 around until he gets fluent in t
Page 44 and 45: 36 Plusses and The Quest For Perfec
Page 46 and 47: 38 sommelier alert GSO-264 2005 Sel
Page 48 and 49: 40 subject: why riesling? A) Becaus
Page 50 and 51: 42 Treking up the Erdener Treppchen
Page 52 and 53: MOSEL WINES 44 Other Regionals from
Page 54 and 55: MOSEL WINES 46 could do was sit the
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MOSEL WINES 48 A Look At The Vineya
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MOSEL WINES 50 THE SPÄTLESEN GSO-2
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MOSEL WINES 52 SCHTICKIES! GSO-281
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MOSEL WINES 54 Erstwhile cellar-mas
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MOSEL WINES 56 it’s confusing. Me
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MOSEL WINES 58 alfred merkelbach mo
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MOSEL WINES 60 GME-135 2005 Ürzige
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MOSEL WINES 62 joh. jos. christoffe
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MOSEL WINES 64 GJC-146 2005 Erdener
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MOSEL WINES 66 Sleek, feminine, ele
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MOSEL WINES 68 he elects not to.
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MOSEL WINES 70 a.j. adam mosel •
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MOSEL WINES 72 changing; enterprisi
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MOSEL WINES 74 reuscher-haart mosel
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MOSEL WINES 76 hoffmann-simon •Vi
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MOSEL WINES 78 weingut ansgar clüs
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80 Does this self-evident truth rea
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MOSEL WINES 82 carl loewen mosel
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MOSEL WINES 84 carl schmitt-wagner
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MOSEL WINES 86 karlsmühle-geiben r
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88 Is all taste equally valid? Sure
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90 mittelrhein wines In 1900 there
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MITTELRHEIN WINES 92 Bacharach, but
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MITTELRHEIN WINES 94 jost at a glan
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96 nahe wines It is a joy to labor
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NAHE WINES 98 dönnhoff nahe • ob
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NAHE WINES 100 vintage happens befo
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NAHE WINES 102 GDH-172 2005 Estate
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NAHE WINES 104 helmut mathern nahe
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106 the matter of “globalization
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NAHE WINES 108 jakob schneider nahe
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NAHE WINES 110 GJS-067 2005 Niederh
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NAHE WINES 112 Meddersheimer Rheing
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NAHE WINES 114 kruger-rumpf nahe
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NAHE WINES 116 GKF-099 2005 Scheure
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NAHE WINES 118 viti-and-viniculture
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NAHE WINES 120 THE AMAZING TRIO OF
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 122 j.u.h.a. stru
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 124 started to wo
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 126 THE PATERBERG
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 128 wagner-stempe
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 130 GWG-016 2005
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 132 weingut oekon
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 134 gernot gysler
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 136 christian-wil
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138 tasting versus drinking I once
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140 rheingau wines Recently Jancis
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RHEINGAU WINES 142 josef leitz rhei
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RHEINGAU WINES 144 Rüdesheim Viney
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RHEINGAU WINES 146 On August 4th, 2
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RHEINGAU WINES 148 I did, and liked
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150 why does place-specificity matt
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152 pfalz wines In the pretty walle
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PFALZ WINES 154 müller-catoir pfal
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PFALZ WINES 156 THE NOT-DRY WINES!
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PFALZ WINES 158 josef biffar pfalz
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160 scheurebe: what gives? Um, I ha
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PFALZ WINES 162 board; these were t
Page 172 and 173:
PFALZ WINES 164 eugen müller pfalz
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PFALZ WINES 166 GEM-080H 2005 Forst
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PFALZ WINES 168 Messmers use only o
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PFALZ WINES 170 theo minges pfalz
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PFALZ WINES 172 GTM-093 2005 Gleisw
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PFALZ WINES 174 Well, guess again.
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PFALZ WINES 176 kurt darting pfalz
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PFALZ WINES 178 GDR-143 2005 Dürkh
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