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Muslim Saints of South Asia: The eleventh to ... - blog blog blog

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THE INDIAN TOMB<br />

Everyone who has had the good fortune <strong>of</strong> travelling through<br />

India and Pakistan has been surprised by the abundance <strong>of</strong> saints’<br />

<strong>to</strong>mbs, which are powerful places <strong>of</strong> pilgrimage and objects <strong>of</strong><br />

popular devotion. It sometimes seems that certain regions <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Indian subcontinent – Sind, Punjab, Gujarat, the Deccan – are<br />

nothing less than extraordinary sacred necropolises, where someone’s<br />

venerated <strong>to</strong>mb is located almost at each and every step <strong>of</strong> the way.<br />

For example, on the hill <strong>of</strong> Makli near the <strong>to</strong>wn <strong>of</strong> Thatta in Pakistan,<br />

according <strong>to</strong> popular belief, one hundred and twenty-five thousand<br />

saints are buried! <strong>The</strong> eighteenth-century Sindhi his<strong>to</strong>rian Mir ‘Ali<br />

Shir Qani, who has dedicated <strong>The</strong> Book <strong>of</strong> the Hillock Makli<br />

(Maklīnāma, 1778) <strong>to</strong> this place, has written: ‘<strong>The</strong> dust <strong>of</strong> this hillock<br />

is antimony for the eyes <strong>of</strong> those who have been endowed with<br />

insight, and its earth is the seedbed for the grain <strong>of</strong> the concealed’<br />

(Qani 1967: 11).<br />

Another hillock, Shahpura in the Deccan, where many Sufi<br />

men<strong>to</strong>rs (shaikhs and sayyids) were buried in the fifteenth <strong>to</strong><br />

seventeenth centuries, is not unlike the hill <strong>of</strong> Makli in this respect.<br />

Similarly, the <strong>to</strong>wns <strong>of</strong> Punjab Multan and Ucch, where many<br />

celebrated mystics have been laid <strong>to</strong> rest, have become ‘lands <strong>of</strong><br />

bliss’, as has the eastern part <strong>of</strong> the Indian state <strong>of</strong> Uttar Pradesh<br />

(in former times the terri<strong>to</strong>ry <strong>of</strong> the principality <strong>of</strong> Awadh and<br />

Rohilkhand); here as far back as the <strong>eleventh</strong> century those warriors<br />

for faith who became saints in popular perception have found eternal<br />

rest.<br />

<strong>Muslim</strong>s were, in the first instance, the social media where the cult<br />

<strong>of</strong> the saints and their <strong>to</strong>mbs developed. <strong>The</strong> Hindus, who adhere<br />

<strong>to</strong> the practice <strong>of</strong> cremation and not burial, it seemed, did not have<br />

any particular basis for veneration <strong>of</strong> the saints’ <strong>to</strong>mbs. But in the<br />

course <strong>of</strong> many centuries <strong>of</strong> intercourse and living <strong>to</strong>gether these two<br />

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