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Muslim Saints of South Asia: The eleventh to ... - blog blog blog

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THE INDIAN TOMB<br />

and other rites. Under the category <strong>of</strong> sacred places, tirtha (‘river<br />

crossing’, ‘ford’), came reservoirs but also temples, mountains, caves,<br />

s<strong>to</strong>nes, forests and even entire sacred <strong>to</strong>wns. Numerous gatherings<br />

<strong>of</strong> pilgrims were accompanied by regular fairs (melā) and popular<br />

festivals, <strong>of</strong> which the most well-known is Kumbhkāmelā, held<br />

once in twelve years in each <strong>of</strong> the four <strong>to</strong>wns: Hardwar, Prayag,<br />

Nasik and Ujjain, on which, according <strong>to</strong> Hindu tradition, god<br />

Indra’s son Jayanta had sprinkled drops <strong>of</strong> the nectar <strong>of</strong> immortality<br />

amr¸ita.<br />

With such an abundance <strong>of</strong> sacred objects and places <strong>of</strong> pilgrimage<br />

their Islamization <strong>to</strong>ok place easily, extensively, but <strong>to</strong> a great extent<br />

superficially. Often from the ruins <strong>of</strong> a temple, even from its architectural<br />

components, a mosque was built; at the place where once<br />

upon a time there had been the cell <strong>of</strong> a Hindu hermit, a Sufi shaikh<br />

erected a khānqāh; alongside a sacred reservoir a dargāh sprang up,<br />

but no single object <strong>of</strong> veneration could do away with or expunge<br />

the old sacred object from collective memory. Nowadays, in an age<br />

<strong>of</strong> aggravated inter-religious relations, such a fusion <strong>of</strong> the objects <strong>of</strong><br />

pilgrimage time and again has led <strong>to</strong> serious communal clashes, a<br />

recent example being the bitter conflict around Babri Masjid, Babur’s<br />

mosque in Ayodhya, located supposedly at the Rāmajanamsthān, i.e.<br />

the birth-place <strong>of</strong> the god and epic hero Rama.<br />

Many such ‘cultural strata’, where the practice <strong>of</strong> ziyārat was<br />

superimposed on pre-Islamic layers, have survived in the northwestern<br />

regions <strong>of</strong> the subcontinent. Thus, for example, the wellknown<br />

dargāh <strong>of</strong> saint Lal Shahbaz Qalandar was built on the ruins<br />

<strong>of</strong> a Shiva temple and the cavernous cell and dargāh <strong>of</strong> saint Bari<br />

Imam in Nurpur (contemporary Islamabad) have sprung up at the<br />

place <strong>of</strong> a Buddhist monastery <strong>of</strong> the Gandhara period. <strong>The</strong> dargāh<br />

<strong>of</strong> saint Ghazi Miyan in Bahraich (Uttar Pradesh) was erected near a<br />

sacred reservoir, on the ruins <strong>of</strong> a sun god temple.<br />

One should not think that ziyārat was typical exclusively for <strong>South</strong><br />

<strong>Asia</strong>n <strong>Muslim</strong>s. Already in the course <strong>of</strong> the first centuries <strong>of</strong> the<br />

development <strong>of</strong> Islam, visiting the grave <strong>of</strong> Prophet Mohammed in<br />

Madina and pilgrimages <strong>to</strong> the <strong>to</strong>mb <strong>of</strong> caliph ‘Ali in Najaf and<br />

that <strong>of</strong> Imam Husain in Karbala had become cus<strong>to</strong>mary for the<br />

faithful. Tombs <strong>of</strong> celebrated mystics, the mausoleum <strong>of</strong> ‘Abdul<br />

Qadir Jilani in Baghdad, the mazār <strong>of</strong> Jalaluddin Rumi in Konya, the<br />

<strong>to</strong>mb <strong>of</strong> Baha’uddin Naqshband in Bukhara and the grave <strong>of</strong> Ahmad<br />

al-Badavi in Tanta, had gained the prestige <strong>of</strong> sacred places. <strong>The</strong> pious<br />

result <strong>of</strong> such ziyārat was sometimes equated with the rite <strong>of</strong> ‘umra,<br />

or small pilgrimage <strong>to</strong> Mecca.<br />

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