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Muslim Saints of South Asia: The eleventh to ... - blog blog blog

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THE OLD MAN OF AJMER<br />

Gesudaraz, recorded in 1399–1400. Gesudaraz is talking <strong>of</strong> an<br />

injunction <strong>to</strong> perform ziyārat <strong>of</strong> the panj pīr, who, as explained, ‘are<br />

the five Great Shaykhs who preceded Gēsūdarāz, viz. Nașīr al-dīn,<br />

Niz.ām al-dīn, Farīd al-dīn, Quţb al-dīn and Mu‘īn al-dīn’ (Digby<br />

1983: 97).<br />

<strong>The</strong>re also exists a little his<strong>to</strong>rical evidence about Firoz Shah<br />

Tughluq, Sher Shah Suri and Zafar Khan, progeni<strong>to</strong>r <strong>of</strong> the Sultans<br />

<strong>of</strong> Gujarat, visiting the <strong>to</strong>mb. However, during the times <strong>of</strong> the Delhi<br />

Sultanate, for a person who did not have the sultan’s suite (sawārī)<br />

at his disposal, reaching Ajmer was not that easy, as the <strong>to</strong>wn was<br />

situated away from major caravan routes and the way <strong>to</strong> it from<br />

Delhi was considered <strong>to</strong> be unsafe because <strong>of</strong> attacks <strong>of</strong> Rajput<br />

detachments and armed bands <strong>of</strong> robbers. 9 Only during the reign <strong>of</strong><br />

Akbar, who had made travel in the empire relatively hazard-free and<br />

not so risky, did Ajmer Sharif turn in<strong>to</strong> a place <strong>of</strong> mass pilgrimage.<br />

Since sovereignty over Ajmer opened the way <strong>to</strong> numerous Rajput<br />

principalities, with which the Great Mughals were constantly at war,<br />

many <strong>of</strong> the masterpieces <strong>of</strong> ritual architecture which adorn this <strong>to</strong>wn<br />

were built in fulfilment <strong>of</strong> the vows made <strong>to</strong> the saint by Mughal<br />

sovereigns and their military leaders in exchange for vic<strong>to</strong>ry over yet<br />

another Rana (prince) <strong>of</strong> Mewar, or Marwar.<br />

As testified by Abul Fazl, Akbar became interested in the saint’s<br />

personality on hearing qawwālī in Agra eulogizing the miraculous<br />

power <strong>of</strong> his baraka. He performed his first pilgrimage on 14 January<br />

1562, after which he saw <strong>to</strong> it that a road was laid from Fatehpur<br />

Sikri <strong>to</strong> Ajmer, along which at distances <strong>of</strong> one kos (approximately<br />

three kilometres) apart, small <strong>to</strong>wers (kōs-minār) were erected, which<br />

have survived <strong>to</strong> this day. After the capture <strong>of</strong> the Rajput fortress <strong>of</strong><br />

Chit<strong>to</strong>r, Akbar on his return journey visited Ajmer for the second<br />

time on 6 March 1568. This time he made a present <strong>of</strong> a huge<br />

cauldron 10 <strong>to</strong> the dargāh for cooking food for pilgrims and generously<br />

showered gifts and money on the Khwaja’s descendants.<br />

<strong>The</strong> emperor’s devotion <strong>to</strong> the saint <strong>of</strong> Ajmer grew commensurate<br />

with his intercourse with Shaikh Salim Chishti (d. 1571), <strong>to</strong> whose<br />

supernatural intercession tradition ascribed the birth <strong>of</strong> long-awaited<br />

heir <strong>to</strong> the throne prince Salim (future Mughal emperor Jahangir).<br />

He performed his third ziyārat in February 1570 as an ordinary<br />

pilgrim, traversing the path from Agra <strong>to</strong> Ajmer on foot <strong>to</strong> <strong>of</strong>fer<br />

prayers <strong>of</strong> thanks <strong>to</strong> the saint for the birth <strong>of</strong> the first-born. A year<br />

earlier he had a mosque erected from red sands<strong>to</strong>ne in one <strong>of</strong> the<br />

three courtyards <strong>of</strong> the dargāh. <strong>The</strong> mosque now bears the name<br />

Akbari Masjid.<br />

70

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