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Muslim Saints of South Asia: The eleventh to ... - blog blog blog

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THE PEACEMAKER OF DELHI<br />

<strong>of</strong> him, many saints <strong>of</strong> the subcontinent owe their fine <strong>to</strong>mbs.<br />

Nevertheless, in its modern appearance the mausoleum has no<br />

resemblance <strong>to</strong> the specimens <strong>of</strong> architecture <strong>of</strong> the Delhi Sultanate.<br />

<strong>The</strong> material (white marble) itself, the shape <strong>of</strong> the cupola (regular<br />

spherical dome with the base cut <strong>of</strong>f low), enamelled overhead<br />

interior with golden inlay, as well as the composite capitals <strong>of</strong> the<br />

pillars – everything points <strong>to</strong> the fact that the mausoleum was rebuilt<br />

in the Mughal epoch.<br />

However, adjacent <strong>to</strong> the mausoleum the mosque Jama‘at-khana<br />

Masjid, which was completed by Firoz Shah, has retained its original<br />

appearance. This grand structure, made <strong>of</strong> red sands<strong>to</strong>ne and<br />

consisting <strong>of</strong> the central prayer hall and two cupolated chambers, is<br />

considered <strong>to</strong> be the earliest <strong>of</strong> the <strong>South</strong> <strong>Asia</strong>n mosques <strong>of</strong> the Delhi<br />

style, built in absolute conformity with the principles <strong>of</strong> Islamic ritual<br />

architecture. <strong>The</strong> absence in it <strong>of</strong> a rectangular courtyard, enclosed<br />

with lodgings, as is cus<strong>to</strong>mary in congregational mosques (jāmi‘<br />

masjid), indicates that Jama‘at-khana Masjid was used for local<br />

purposes, exclusively for visi<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>of</strong> the khānqāh (Desai 1971: 33).<br />

On entering the dargāh <strong>of</strong> Nizamuddin Awliya, a pilgrim tarries for<br />

a while in the first courtyard in order <strong>to</strong> buy <strong>of</strong>ferings for the saint:<br />

rose petals, sweets and incense sticks. More well-<strong>to</strong>-do visi<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>of</strong>fer<br />

perfumes and aromatic oil (‘iţr), because the saint was fond <strong>of</strong> them<br />

in his lifetime, and also chaddar, a coloured sheet <strong>of</strong> cloth, used for<br />

covering the sepulchre. <strong>The</strong>n the pilgrim passes on <strong>to</strong> the second<br />

courtyard, where sitting at the edge <strong>of</strong> a shallow reservoir he performs<br />

ritual cleansing (wudű¯’), in consecutive order first washing the palms<br />

and hands, then the face and neck and finally his feet.<br />

At the reservoir men and women’s ways diverge. <strong>The</strong> former enter<br />

the <strong>to</strong>mb from the central entrance, <strong>to</strong>uch the threshold with a hand<br />

or, falling on their knees, kiss it. Having entered the <strong>to</strong>mb, they walk<br />

round the sepulchre several times, throwing handfuls <strong>of</strong> rose petals<br />

on it. <strong>The</strong>y give their <strong>of</strong>ferings <strong>to</strong> the special attendant mujāwir, who<br />

sits by the mazār with a green box for <strong>of</strong>ferings <strong>of</strong> cash. In exchange<br />

for ten <strong>to</strong> twenty rupees the mujāwir gives a pilgrim a packet with<br />

consecrated articles, which include a handful <strong>of</strong> rose petals, a pinch<br />

<strong>of</strong> fragrant ashes <strong>of</strong> burnt incense and some sweets.<br />

Women also go up <strong>to</strong> the main entrance, but only in order <strong>to</strong> pray<br />

or <strong>to</strong> kiss the threshold – they can go inside only through the lateral<br />

door. <strong>The</strong>ir <strong>of</strong>ferings are taken from them in the vestibule, separated<br />

from the burial-vault by means <strong>of</strong> a dense lattice. Since women were<br />

always the most ardent devotees <strong>of</strong> Mah˝būb-i ilāhī (the Beloved<br />

Divine, as Nizamuddin Awliya was tenderly called) and also the most<br />

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