66 www.bcliquorstores.com NEW ZEALAND sAuvigNoN bLANc spring in a glass
y Carolyn Evans-Hammond French Sancerre is to New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc as Audrey Hepburn is to Angelina. The former is classic, lean and charming, but slowly fading into obscurity while the latter is exciting, sassy, a tad irreverent and all the more enticing for it. While both wines are pure Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand’s version is soaring in popularity and, like Angelina’s lips, it’s hard not to notice. Last year, British Columbians drank nearly a million bottles of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, up 30 percent from 2009. Meanwhile, sales of that variety from France, Australia and the United States dropped about 20 percent each. Why? Because New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is unique, delicious and consistent. Twist open a bottle and you can count on a wild shock of fruit, razor- sharp acidity, and such grab-you-by-thejugular flavours as gooseberry, key lime, grapefruit and cut grass. In most cases, the wine will be untouched by oak and it is rarely blended with other grape varieties. It will be ready to drink upon release, raring to deliver the ultimate thrill. It’s pure springtime in a glass. The experience is as though you’ve taken a Loire-style Sauvignon Blanc – think Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, or Touraine – dusted off most of the flinty-stony minerality, polished up the fruit and created something that positively gleams in the mouth. Each bracing sip works as well on its own as with food, particularly anything with fins or a shell. Oysters, crabcakes and red snapper all pair swimmingly with it, but so do the first spears of asparagus, fresh goat’s cheese and simple salads. New Zealand’s first Sauvignon Blanc took the world by storm in the mid-80s when Cloudy Bay from the Marlborough region burst on the scene. Critics were beside themselves with glee, rave reviews flowed and a cult following quickly ensued. The frenzy not only put Marlborough on the global wine map, it spun Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc into stardom, starting a worldwide phenomenon. The island nation never looked back. But that was a quarter of a century ago. Athough the style of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has remained fresh and pungent, with firm acidity, producers there have strived to differentiate themselves from each other. So you have Cloudy Bay now nodding toward Sancerre, with its slight restraint and sly hint of minerality, and Kim Crawford, with its hallmark spark of unadulterated gooseberry, grass and grapefruit and every shade between. To this day, Sauvignon Blanc NEW ZEAlANd’S firST SAuvigNoN BlANc Took ThE World By STorm . . .WhEN cloudy BAy from ThE mArlBorough rEgioN BurST oN ThE ScENE. criTicS WErE BESidE ThEmSElvES WiTh glEE, rAvE rEviEWS floWEd ANd A culT folloWiNg Quickly ENSuEd. accounts for roughly three quarters of all Kiwi wine exported, the vast majority of which is still from Marlborough – the little coastal valley sandwiched between two mountain ranges. The region is now almost completely under vine, as it tries to crank out as much Sauvignon Blanc as possible to meet rising demand. Today, other parts of the world are trying to replicate Marlboroughstyle Sauvignon Blanc. Frankly, like Condrieu, Montrachet and classic Chablis from the Les Clos vineyard, Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is unmistakable. The secret lies in the technical details of the region’s soil composition, temperature differences between day and night, precise location and so forth. But just as you don’t TASTE 67
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