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Cleaner Technology Transfer to the Polish Textile ... - Miljøstyrelsen

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64<br />

3.2 Environmentally friendly recipe in<br />

reactive dyeing of cot<strong>to</strong>n<br />

Hans Henrik Knudsen and Henrik Wenzel,<br />

Institute for Product Development, Denmark.<br />

Abstract<br />

The recipe for reactive dyeing of cot<strong>to</strong>n can be divided in<strong>to</strong> three steps: <strong>the</strong><br />

pre-treatment, <strong>the</strong> dye-bath and <strong>the</strong> final rinse. The consumption of chemicals<br />

and water in <strong>the</strong> rinse have been found <strong>to</strong> be considerable; three quarters of <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>to</strong>tal COD-discharge of a recipe have relations <strong>to</strong> auxiliary chemicals used and<br />

three quarters of <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>tal water consumption have relation <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> rinse. The<br />

improvement potentials in <strong>the</strong> rinsing procedure were found <strong>to</strong> be considerable,<br />

and <strong>the</strong> newly developed recipe focuses on improvements in <strong>the</strong> rinse.<br />

Tests with <strong>the</strong> new recipe have documented, that neutralization, detergents and<br />

complexing agents can be left out completely with no adverse effect on product<br />

quality. All recognized tests of fastness and shade have been performed<br />

and evaluated in co-operation with <strong>the</strong> dye-houses.<br />

More than 50 full-scale dyeings have been carried out in jets, overflow and<br />

drum batch machines. These dyeings include 25 different reactive dye-stuffs,<br />

among <strong>the</strong>se – azo, anthrachinon, phtalocyanin and formazan dye-stuffs,<br />

including both monoreactive and bireactive dye-stuffs of which 15 had <strong>the</strong><br />

vinyl sulphone as reactive group. The dye-stuffs have been combined in 20<br />

different recipes covering very light <strong>to</strong> very dark shades.<br />

Hot membrane filtration of <strong>the</strong> hot rinsing water has been investigated in parallel<br />

projects and it is documented that one new recipe including membrane<br />

filtration, saves chemicals, water, and energy, and implies large savings in production<br />

time as well.<br />

Introduction<br />

Status for <strong>the</strong> recipe In previous investigations, <strong>the</strong> consumption of water, energy and chemicals for<br />

<strong>the</strong> rinse in <strong>the</strong> reactive dyeing of cot<strong>to</strong>n was found <strong>to</strong> be of major importance<br />

(D. Fiebig et al., 1985, H. Wenzel et al., 1992). It is common that <strong>the</strong> rinse has<br />

a water consumption above 200 l/kg textile, or more than 60% of <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>tal<br />

water consumption in <strong>the</strong> whole refinement process. About 70% of <strong>the</strong> CODload<br />

from <strong>the</strong> reactive dyeing process can derive from auxiliary chemicals<br />

used in <strong>the</strong> rinse.<br />

Status in <strong>the</strong> dye-houses The dye-houses state that <strong>the</strong> large consumption of water and chemicals for<br />

<strong>the</strong> rinse in reactive dyeing of cot<strong>to</strong>n ensures a reliable process. The possible<br />

residual content of salts and/or o<strong>the</strong>r chemicals in <strong>the</strong> cot<strong>to</strong>n textile, which are<br />

not washed out in <strong>the</strong> pre-treatment, can influence <strong>the</strong> quality of <strong>the</strong> product,<br />

and <strong>the</strong> process is secured by <strong>the</strong> use of auxiliary chemicals.<br />

Ano<strong>the</strong>r reason given is, that specific shades require combination of dye-stuffs<br />

with so different chemical and physical properties, and that it is only possible<br />

<strong>to</strong> control <strong>the</strong> rinse and obtain <strong>the</strong> desired shades with <strong>the</strong> traditional consumption<br />

of water- and chemicals.

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