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Cleaner Technology Transfer to the Polish Textile ... - Miljøstyrelsen

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80<br />

The strategy for <strong>the</strong> water reclamation research has been <strong>to</strong> introduce reclamation<br />

and re-use closely integrated in <strong>the</strong> dyeing process. This implies <strong>to</strong> work<br />

upstream, where water characteristics are still process specific, and not downstream,<br />

where substreams have been mixed and water characteristics represent<br />

an overall average. This strategy is believed <strong>to</strong> be optimal as long as large scale<br />

advantages and flexibility are not lost by <strong>the</strong> tight process integration. For <strong>the</strong><br />

water types in reactive dyeing of cot<strong>to</strong>n <strong>the</strong> strategy has been found very suitable,<br />

and our experience shows that it will result in <strong>the</strong> environmentally and<br />

economically optimal solution.<br />

Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, and not least important, <strong>the</strong> strategy has been <strong>to</strong> seek for re-use<br />

not only of water but also of <strong>the</strong> energy and chemical content in <strong>the</strong> water.<br />

Recipes<br />

In dyeing processes <strong>the</strong> recipe is <strong>the</strong> fundamental specification of <strong>the</strong> process.<br />

Water consumption, chemical consumption, temperature, salinity, pH, etc. are<br />

all specified by <strong>the</strong> recipe. Process water characteristics, <strong>the</strong>refore, are given<br />

by <strong>the</strong> recipe and <strong>the</strong> quality of <strong>the</strong> cot<strong>to</strong>n.<br />

A comprehensive investigation of recipes in reactive dyeing of cot<strong>to</strong>n form <strong>the</strong><br />

background for <strong>the</strong> research of optimisations and water re-use. The essential<br />

process water characteristics have been found <strong>to</strong> be: dye-stuff content, salinity,<br />

temperature, COD (deriving from additives such as acetic acid, detergents<br />

and complexing agents), pH, and <strong>to</strong> some extent suspended solids incl. cot<strong>to</strong>n<br />

fibres. Essential points <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> applicability of water reclamation techniques<br />

are:<br />

Dye-stuff content Reactive dyes are typically azo-based chromophores combined with different<br />

types of reactive groups (Ciba-Geigy, 1987). The relative large chromophores<br />

place reactive dyes in <strong>the</strong> molarweight area of 700-1000 g/mol. The reactive<br />

groups can be based on e.g dichlortriazin or vinyl sulphonic acid and will be<br />

negatively charged. Beside <strong>the</strong> reactive groups, o<strong>the</strong>r negatively charged<br />

groups are found, <strong>to</strong>o, typically sulfonic acid groups. The reactive groups react<br />

with hydroxyl groups in <strong>the</strong> cellulose fibre during <strong>the</strong> dyeing reaction. However,<br />

a relatively large part of <strong>the</strong> reactive groups will react with water, leaving<br />

<strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> dye-stuff at an unreactive stage. Due <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> properties of <strong>the</strong> chromophore,<br />

<strong>the</strong> dye-stuff is quite adsorptive <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> cellulose, and <strong>the</strong> hydrolysed<br />

dye-stuff requires large amounts of water, preferably at high temperature, in<br />

<strong>the</strong> preceeding rinses <strong>to</strong> be washed out properly.<br />

Salinity Salinity in <strong>the</strong> dye-bath typically varies in <strong>the</strong> area of 40.000-80.000 mg/l. In<br />

<strong>the</strong> preceeding rinses, salinity will decrease typically by a fac<strong>to</strong>r 3 for <strong>the</strong><br />

batchwise rinse and much more by <strong>the</strong> very water consuming »over flow«<br />

rinse.<br />

Temperature At pH above 10 and temperatures above 50-60°C certain types of reactive dyestuffs<br />

are sensitive <strong>to</strong> breaking <strong>the</strong> established covalent bond <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> cellulose.<br />

Therefore, <strong>the</strong> dye-bath (having pH >10) and <strong>the</strong> first batch rinse <strong>to</strong> follow<br />

need a temperature not higher than 50-60°C. After this first rinse a temperature<br />

of 90-95°C is preferable <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> rinsing. For economical reasons some of<br />

<strong>the</strong> rinses are often kept colder.

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