27.11.2012 Views

Cleaner Technology Transfer to the Polish Textile ... - Miljøstyrelsen

Cleaner Technology Transfer to the Polish Textile ... - Miljøstyrelsen

Cleaner Technology Transfer to the Polish Textile ... - Miljøstyrelsen

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

Table 1.<br />

Purity of different cot<strong>to</strong>n lots (Behnke, 1994).<br />

Brazil Brazil<br />

USA USA<br />

Content, mg/kg Greenhouse Assai Paraná Sao Paulo Peru Texas California<br />

Ca 400-500 3147 845 700 810 600<br />

Mg 300-400 1156 555 440 365 540<br />

66<br />

free grown cot<strong>to</strong>n is higher and very fluctuating compared <strong>to</strong> a greenhouse<br />

grown cot<strong>to</strong>n.<br />

The reason can be found in <strong>the</strong> different soils where <strong>the</strong> cot<strong>to</strong>n is grown combined<br />

with <strong>the</strong> use of fertilizers, pesticides and defoliants in <strong>the</strong> modern cot<strong>to</strong>n<br />

production. Large-scale farming and use of harvesters is absolutely necessary<br />

<strong>to</strong> meet a market characterized by insatiability (Behnke, 1994).<br />

Reactive dye-stuffs Reactive dye-stuffs establish, unlike all o<strong>the</strong>r dye-stuffs, a co-valent bond <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> textile fibre, and offer great advantages regarding wash fastness of <strong>the</strong><br />

dyed textile. However, <strong>the</strong> reactive dye-stuffs react undesired with <strong>the</strong><br />

hydroxyl ions of <strong>the</strong> water and form a non-reactive hydrolyzate; a resulting<br />

utilization degree of 60-80% is <strong>the</strong>refore common. To reach <strong>the</strong> desired wash<br />

fastness of <strong>the</strong> dyed cot<strong>to</strong>n <strong>the</strong> remaining 20-40% dye-stuff hydrolysate have<br />

<strong>to</strong> be washed out during <strong>the</strong> rinse.<br />

Figure 2.<br />

Reactive dye-stuff types.<br />

Reactive dye-stuff molecules consist of chromofore components, giving <strong>the</strong><br />

colour, and reactive components, establishing <strong>the</strong> co-valent bond, as schematic<br />

outlined in figure 2. The dye-stuffs are called monoreactive respectively<br />

bireactive if <strong>the</strong>re are one respectively two reactive groups in <strong>the</strong> molecule.<br />

Reactive groups Seven reactive groups dominate: Dichlortriazin (DCT), monochlortriazin<br />

(MCT), sulfa<strong>to</strong>ethylsulphon (VS), trichlorpyrimidin (TCP), dichlorquinoxalin<br />

(DCC), diflourchlorpyrimidin (DFCP) and monofluortrazin (FT).<br />

Chromofors A great number of chromofors are used, but <strong>the</strong> most common is <strong>the</strong> azo<br />

group. O<strong>the</strong>rs are anthraquinone and phtalocyanine metal complexes.

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!