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beautifully pure blueberry fruit. There is lip-smacking
freshness and a very finely woven tannin structure
but this impressive wine does need time to come
into itself and relax its fruit. There is something profound
and stony about this, something mysterious,
brooding and wild. Cellar this and then rejoice. Drink
2020–2035. KWSelection.com. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $34
94
Prieler 2013 Goldberg Blaufränkisch (Leithaberg).
Very smoky notes of oak become
apparent first. This needs some air to open more,
when the initial smoke is followed by dark sumptuous
floral-tinged berries. The peony-scented
blueberry and bramble note is highlighted on the
palate by fine freshness. The tannins are ultrafine
and gentle, while the wine is full bodied but still
taut. This is for the longer run. Drink 2020–2030.
Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
93
Artner 2014 Kirchweingarten Reserve Blaufränkisch
(Carnuntum). Sumptuous oak flavors
of cinnamon, blueberry notes and spicy pepper
make for an impressive olfactory trio. The palate
comes across as velvety but fresh, echoing these
same flavors, emphasizing pepper and blueberry.
The structure is big and bold and fully supported
by oak, but the crunchy fruit freshness holds the
balance. This has a fruity finish and would need
some hearty meat to be drunk now. Otherwise drink
2019–2029. Vintage Epicure. —A.K.
abv: 14% Price: $45
93
Gunter Triebaumer 2014 Reserve Blaufränkisch
(Burgenland). Soft aromatic notions
of red cherry and blueberry, along with white pepper,
rise from the glass. The palate brims with tart
crunchy ripe fruit and emphasizes blueberry. There
is a light touch here and lovely fluidity—the tannins
are like starched velvet. This is refreshing and very
elegant. It’s neither light nor heavy, but just right and
medium bodied, perfect for subtle cuisine. Magellan
Wine Imports. —A.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $40
93
Prieler 2014 Blaufränkisch (Leithaberg).
Rich vanilla notes of fine oak drape around
dark fruit and iron oxide on the nose. The palate
delivers the juicy fullness of crushed blackberry
and bramble, along with the characteristic white
pepper notes of Blaufränkisch. The fruit is aromatic
and also has a cinnamon-tinged blueberry note. The
body is smooth and flows with very soft tannins and
immense freshness. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
91
Heinrich 2015 Vom Weingebirge Blaufränkisch
(Burgenland). Very dark, iron-oxide-tinged
fruit lures you in. There also is a lot of pepper on the
nose. The palate is full of dark crushed fruit: juicy
blackberry, aromatic blueberry and red cherry. The
tannins are supple and there is lovely freshness to
the palate. This is vibrant, juicy, smooth and aromatic.
Drink now–2022. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $21
91
Nittnaus Anita und Hans 2014 Blaufränkisch
(Leithaberg). The nose is still closed and just
gives us a whiff of white pepper. The palate is beautifully
slender and has a lighter touch of just-ripe
blueberry and red cherry. There is a gentle silky grip
and a lot of refreshing tart and delicious fruit. While
2014 was not an easy vintage for reds, this acquits
itself with sassiness and grace. Frederick Wildman
& Sons, Ltd. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $45
90
Heinrich 2015 Vitikult Blaufränkisch (Burgenland).
Dark, chocolaty, juicy and
rounded blackberries and blueberries take over
completely on nose and palate. This is sumptuous,
but not heavy and really vibrant with dark aromatic
fruit. There is a hint of cinnamon and a touch of
pepper on the mellow palate. Enjoy the rich exuberance.
Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $27
93
ST. LAURENT
Johanneshof Reinisch 2014 Frauenfeld St.
Laurent (Thermenregion). Something floral
and soft hovers above the fruit. There also is the
rich hazel presence of fine oak. The fruit is beautifully
luminous: very aromatic red cherry is drenched
in the soft vanilla of oak. The tannins are silky but
dense. White pepper shimmers everywhere, supported
by the inherent freshness of the palate. This
still needs time. Drink 2020–2030. Circo Vino.
—A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $40
93
R&A Pfaffl 2013 Altenberg Reserve St. Laurent
(Niederösterreich). For full review see page
8.
abv: 14% Price: $40
90
Stift Klosterneuburg 2014 Ausstich St. Laurent
(Thermenregion). The dark red fruit is
enveloped in the rounded, rich and chocolaty scent
of oak. The palate shows a lighter side with delicate
fruit of a red-cherry nature. Freshness sumptuous
oak and red-cherry notes marry well. This is lovely
now, but just a few more months in bottle will allow
it to knit together more. Drink now through 2020.
Boutique Wine Collection. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $25
95
PINOT NOIR
Anton Bauer 2014 Reserve Limited Edition
Pinot Noir (Wagram). The most gentle
strawberry fruit appears unobtrusively on the nose.
The palate reveals incredibly pure and honest wild
strawberry fruit. The palate is slender but totally
concentrated—there is depth to the wine and something
ethereal and utterly seductive. This is not
about power but about arresting allure. The true
nature of Pinot Noir has been captured here, without
force, without guile. This is honest and all the
more disarming for that. KWSelection.com. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $55
94
Johanneshof Reinisch 2014 Grillenhügel Pinot
Noir (Thermenregion). Smoke and vanilla
spice hover above appetizing notions of tart redberry
fruit. The body is light and spicy and has a
touch of fragrant conifer and an abundance of lovely
unforced cranberry and red cherry. There is a pervasive
freshness and elegance to this wine, which lifts
it well above the ordinary. Pinot lovers will rejoice in
the spice and light-footedness, but there is a serious
beautiful core of fruit and a lasting peppery finish.
Circo Vino. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $40
92
Bründlmayer 2013 Reserve Pinot Noir (Niederösterreich).
A curious mix of roasted
smokiness and red fruits makes for an appetizing
autumnal nose. The red fruit underneath these
flavors is beautifully pure and speaks of raspberry
and wild strawberries. The wonderfully refreshing
tartness zips across the palate like a bright streak
of light and gives freshness, direction and poise to
everything. The flavors are lasting and long. Terry
Theise Estate Selections. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $60
91
Hillinger 2014 Terroir Pinot Noir (Burgenland).
Gentle hints of smoke and pine wood hover
on the nose. The palate has the same spicy glint of
pine and some oaky smoky spice. The fruit underneath
is lovely and pure: tart cranberry and raspberry
are expressed beautifully. The body is soft and
fresh, undeniably supported by lots of oak but it
manages to achieve an elegant poised balance. It is
on the finish that vanilla makes another appearance.
KWSelection.com. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $64
90
Martinshof 2013 Galgenberg Reserve Pinot
Noir (Niederösterreich). There is something
smoky and grilled about the nose. While the red
fruit of strawberry and cherry is fresh, there are also
aromas of roasted oak. Nonetheless, the fruit itself
is delicate and tart, translucent and unforced. The
palate is slender and fresh, with a deep core of red
berries. This may take time to come into its own.
Drink 2018–2024. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
90
Stift Klosterneuburg 2014 Steinfeld Pinot
Noir (Thermenregion). Candied—almost
confected—red fruit shimmers on the nose. On the
palate, this turns into fleshy aromatic red cherry
that carries immediate charm. The palate is light,
refreshing and full of easy fruit. The finish is clean
and reinforces that lovely cherry note. Boutique
Wine Collection. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $25
104 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017