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BUYINGGUIDE
BEER
Red and wild
Wild beers (those fermented with wild
yeasts and bacteria) have gone mainstream.
Well, maybe not totally mainstream,
but they’re certainly enjoying a
moment, with many beer drinkers turning to the
style to experience exciting, eye-opening beers.
American wild ales are particularly popular.
They are a result of American brewers taking
classic European styles and
techniques stateside, oftentimes
creating their own specialized
equipment (like coolships, a type
of fermentation vessel) or adding
fruits or spices.
Many domestic breweries
are looking for ways to meet
this increased demand. The
team at The Bruery, for example,
recently created a new brand line, called Bruery
Terreux, with a dedicated space, equipment and
staff to concentrate on farmhouse-style wild
and sour ales. The result is more unique bottlings,
like the playful Frucht line and the Oude
Tart with Boysenberries reviewed below.
But for many, European “wild” styles are
sacred, and among the best and most renowned
Rodenbach Caractère Rouge Limited Edition
Ale (Flanders Red Ale; Brewery Roden-
98
bach, Belgium). This is a selection that, if you find
it, should absolutely not be missed. It starts with
Rodenbach’s Vintage Ale, which is macerated with
cranberries, raspberries and sour cherries for six
months and then refermented in bottle. The result is
a stunning, complex and remarkably balanced beer.
A gorgeous ruby-mahogany color, with a light head
that falls fast, it leads with vibrant scents of fresh
whole cherry and berry that are accented by waves
of oak and sour fruit. The palate is forward in flavor,
yet surprisingly smooth and refined, with medium
carbonation and refreshing sour acidity that balance
the ripe red-fruit characteristics. The elegant
finish boasts notes of dried cherry, raspberry, cocoa
and wood that linger long. It’s not over-the-top in
any one trait, and is a beer that exemplifies how
poised and well-composed a fruited Flanders ale
can be. Latis LLC.
abv: 7%
Price: $23/750 ml
Among the
best and most
renowned
selections are
Belgium’s Flanders
red ales.
selections are Belgium’s Flanders red ales. The
style is epitomized by the beers of Rodenbach
brewery, founded in 1836. These brews reflect
regional brewing traditions—the beer is aged for
up to two years, often in huge oak vessels which
contain the wild yeasts and bacteria needed
to sour the beer, and old and young beers are
blended to balance sourness and acidity.
97
Rodenbach Grand Cru Ale (Flanders Red Ale;
Brewery Rodenbach, Belgium). For many,
Rodenbach’s Grand Cru is the benchmark Flanders
red, or at the very least, a top example of the
classic Belgian style. A mix of 1/3 young ale and 2/3
two-year-old ale that’s aged in oak foeders, it pours
a slightly muddied, dark mahogany-cherry color,
with a tan head that fades fast. Tart, wild notes of
vinegar, green apple, leather, barnyard and musty
oak dominate the nose, while fruity tones of dark
cherry and fig offer support. The mouthfeel is alive
and invigorating, yet smooth and accessible, with
great acidic lift and freshness that are countered
by slightly plush red-fruit flavors and lingering
toasted-wood and oak-spice accents. Soft, fine tannins
frame the dry finish. Latis LLC.
abv: 6%
Price: $16/11.2 oz 4 pack
96
Typically light- to medium-
bodied, with mahogany-like
coloring, they are notorious
for pronounced sour, tart and
fruity aromas and flavors produced
by wild yeast strains and
bacteria. Those characteristics
are balanced by a malty core
and rich fruit flavors. A tannic
texture and dry finish come
from oak aging. They are complex beers that are
frequently compared to fine red wines in their
acidic and textural attributes, and can often age
gracefully for years after release.
Whether you’re eager to taste new-school
pours or turn to the tried-and-true classics, it’s
hard not to enjoy such wild explorations.
Prost!
—Lauren Buzzeo
Rodenbach Vintage 2013 Limited Edition
Ale (Flanders Red Ale; Brewery Rodenbach,
Belgium). A foederbier, or single-foeder beer, this
vintage release was aged for two years in foeder
No. 149, the 59-year-old foeder that was selected
by Brewmaster Rudi Ghequire as the top performing
vat of the year. It is a well-balanced and complex
brew, showing its youth right now in assertive
acetic characteristics, tannic texture and tight, wiry
red-fruit tones, suggesting it is a beer that will
evolve and mature well through 2019, at least. Currently,
dried cherry, raspberry, Granny Smith apple,
toasted oak, sour funk and balsamic vinegar notes
dominate, with accents of wood spice and lemon
oil on the dry, pleasantly astringent finish. Sour yet
smooth on the palate, it’s supported by just-enough
sweet fruit tones. Latis LLC.
abv: 7%
Price: $19/750 ml
95
Bruery Terreux 2016 Oude Tart (Flanders Red
Ale; Bruery Terreux, California). This selection,
a Flemish-style red ale aged in red-wine oak
barrels for up to 18 months, is an excellent American
interpretation of the traditional Belgian style. It’s
currently drinking quite young and austere, pouring
a rich mahogany color with initial fruity aromas of
tart cranberry and cherry that are laced with hints
of Bretty funk, vinegar, vanilla and oak. The smooth
yet lively palate offers more of the same, though
the fruit veers towards a darker spectrum (think
plum, date and fig) coupled with notes of caramel
and toasted oak before turning back towards lively,
sour red-fruit characteristics and a leathery accent
on the long close.
abv: 7.7%
Price: $20/750 ml
92
Bruery Terreux 2015 Oude Tart with Boysenberries
(Flanders Red Ale; Bruery Terreux,
California). This brilliant dark-pink pour is made
from Terreux’s Oude Tart Flemish-style red ale, with
over two gallons of boysenberry purée added to each
barrel during the final stage of aging. The result is a
vibrant and fruit-forward beer, with intense scents
of fresh boysenberry and raspberry that are hit by
musty oak, earth and wild funk. The palate follows
through on the fruity aromas, lifted by tart notes of
balsamic and lactic acid that enliven the rich fruit
flavors and smooth buttery-oak tones. The round
mouthfeel boasts ample carbonation, while soft tannins
and notes of vanilla and leather grace the finish.
abv: 8.3%
Price: $23/750 ml
91
Rodenbach Classic Ale (Flanders Red Ale;
Brewery Rodenbach, Belgium). Don’t let the
fact that this is Rodenbach’s “entry-level” beer
deter you—while it’s the most approachable and
accessible of the bunch, it’s certainly not light on
flavor or experience. A blend of 75% young ale and
25% two-year-old ale aged in oak foeders, it pours
a hazy brown color, with mahogany-red glimmers.
The bouquet is bright and fresh, brimming with ripe
raspberry and strawberry aromas that are accented
by hits of forest floor, vinegar and wild funk. The
palate is light and refreshing, with medium carbonation
and abundant flavors of tart green apple and
white grape. Rich accents of caramel, vanilla and
sweet spice dance softly on the end. Latis LLC.
abv: 5.2%
Price: $13/11.2 oz 4 pack
108 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017