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BUYINGGUIDE mouthfeel is refreshing, with wet stone minerality and plenty of tart acids. Cave Spring Cellars. —P.G. abv: 11% Price: $17 91 SAUVIGNON BLANC Township 7 2015 Sauvignon Blanc (Okanagan Valley). For full review see page 16. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13% Price: $18 90 Township 7 2015 Blue Terrace Vineyard Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Okanagan Valley). Sourced from a single vineyard on Oliver’s North Bench, this was fermented and aged in onequarter new French oak barrels. The time in oak has somewhat muted the snappy vitality of the fruit (some tasters might argue it has simply rounded it off). Grassy hints of fresh asparagus remain, and with peppery herb, juicy gooseberry and citrus peel. Township 7 Vineyards & Winery. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $23 91 PINOT GRIS Township 7 2015 Naramata Estate Vineyard Reserve Pinot Gris (Okanagan Valley). Rich and creamy, this barrel-fermented (in neutral oak) wine has appealing flavors of pear tart, grapefruit and coconut cream pie. The bracing acids compensate for all the lush creamy flavor, and the result is darn near irresistible. Township 7 Vineyards & Winery. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $23 90 Laughing Stock 2015 Pinot Gris (Okanagan Valley). This wine may surprise you with its rich round full-bodied fruit. It’s not the racy, high-acid style you might expect from a BC winery– rather it pumps up the flavors with pear, peach and papaya front and center, clean and fresh. Fermentation took place in a mix of oak, concrete egg and steel. Laughing Stock. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 89 CHARDONNAY Burrowing Owl 2015 Chardonnay (Okanagan Valley). Half barrel fermented, and all oakaged (roughly two-thirds new), this cloaks the lush fruit flavors of pineapple, peach and nectarine in a wash of caramel. The wine remains well proportioned, with acids and barrel toast playing a supporting role. Burrowing Owl. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $30 89 Foxtrot 2014 Four Shadows Chardonnay (Okanagan Valley). This barrel-fermented Chardonnay offers subtle layers of flavor, weaving hints of leafy green herb, lemon skin and oil, together with suggestions of white peach. It’s structured for drinking now and through 2021, with an elegant frame and modest proportions. Foxtrot Vineyards. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $41 91 MUSCAT Township 7 2015 Rock Pocket Vineyard Muscat (Okanagan Valley). With its intense scents and flavors of orange candy, Muscat is often made in a sweet style, but here it shows its dry side, and to good effect. Bright and penetrating scents and flavors hit on the entire spectrum of oranges, with excellent weight, precision and concentration. A touch of candied ginger adds further interest. Township 7 Vineyards & Winery. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.4% Price: $18 92 PINOT NOIR Burrowing Owl 2014 Pinot Noir (Okanagan Valley). The Okanagan has the capability to produce delicate, almost ethereal Pinot Noirs, and this fine example proves the point. Fragrant and feminine, its strawberry and cherry fruit ripe enough to suggest fresh pastry, it’s simply delicious, offering complexity and persistence as well as immediate enjoyment. Burrowing Owl. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $32 91 Foxtrot 2012 Henricsson Vineyard Pinot Noir (Okanagan Valley). The complex aromatics, texture and detail on display here may dazzle you. It’s a wine that deserves your attention, deceptively light in color and taste, yet penetrating, with a core of strawberry jam and a streak of caramel mocha running through the finish. Drink now through 2025. Foxtrot Vineyards. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $44 90 Foxtrot 2013 Foxtrot Vineyard Pinot Noir (Okanagan Valley). For full review see page 17. abv: 13.6% Price: $50 88 Cave Spring 2014 Pinot Noir (Niagara Escarpment). Light and delicate, yet flavorful and perfectly ripe, this elegant wine taps into the ethereal side of the grape. It’s tart and somewhat chocolaty, yet neither acid nor barrel flavors obscure the oh-so-pretty raspberry fruit. Cave Spring Cellars. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $20 94 RED BLENDS Laughing Stock 2014 Portfolio (Okanagan Valley). Portfolio is a full-on, five-grape, Bordeaux-style blend—half Merlot. Dark, dense and textural, it’s loaded with blackberry and black cherry fruit, swathed in baking spices, cinnamon and mocha. The tannins are beautifully managed, and it should drink magnificently through the mid- 2020s. Laughing Stock. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $40 92 Laughing Stock 2014 Blind Trust (Okanagan Valley). The impenetrably obscure label design makes this difficult to find, but once your hands are on the bottle, it’s smooth sailing. A “second label” Bordeaux-style blend, this delicious, fruity and distinctive wine puts a wrap of tangy citrus around black cherry, coffee and licorice components. Malbec is the principal grape, with smaller amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab Franc. Laughing Stock. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $25 92 Vanessa 2012 Meritage (Similkameen Valley). For full review see page 12. abv: 14.2% Price: $32 88 Burrowing Owl 2013 Meritage (Okanagan Valley). A well-rounded, five-grape Bordeaux-style blend, the emphasis here is on forwardfruit flavors that mix tart berry with lemon and orange-tinged acids. It’s made for near-term drinking, a most pleasant wine, though without the gravitas for long cellaring. Burrowing Owl. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 93 OTHER RED WINES Vanessa 2012 Syrah (Similkameen Valley). For full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $34 92 Burrowing Owl 2014 Malbec (Okanagan Valley). This delicious and distinctive take on the grape as a pure varietal impresses with its solid core of purple plum and blueberry fruit. Aromatic accents of lemon and green tea continue into the palate as well, and the lengthy finish is fresh and multi-dimensional. Burrowing Owl. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $32 91 Burrowing Owl 2014 Cabernet Franc (Okanagan Valley). This pure varietal bottling spent 18 months in oak, emerging perfectly proportioned with deftly integrated flavors of berry and herb, and a touch of fresh snap peas. The tannins carry the characteristic green olive notes, and the finish offers the scent and flavor of ground coffee as well. Overall a very fine effort. Burrowing Owl. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $34 91 Burrowing Owl 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Okanagan Valley). This hits the herbal side of the grape gently, with a solid base of black cherry. There’s a nice suggestion of orange peel also, and the overall impression is of a complex, sophisticated, well-balanced but relatively light style, in keeping with the strengths of this northern climate. Drink now through 2025. Burrowing Owl. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $36 58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017
91 Burrowing Owl 2013 Merlot (Okanagan Valley). Smooth and fruity, yet complex and complete, this excellent wine offers ample acid and polished tannins around pretty red fruits. Notes of citrus and spice, tobacco and toast linger through a satisfying finish. Burrowing Owl. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 90 Burrowing Owl 2014 Syrah (Okanagan Valley). The scents and overall sense of this wine point clearly to its varietal specificity, with smoky notes of tea leaf, coffee, umami and red licorice. The light fruit flavors are a tutti–frutti mix, and it’s styled for immediate enjoyment. Drink now through 2022. Burrowing Owl. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $34 91 SWEET WINES Cave Spring 2014 Icewine Riesling (Niagara Peninsula). Golden raisins, poached pear, caramel and butterscotch meld together in this low alcohol, intensely flavored icewine. The flavors expand to include candied pineapple, with tremendous viscosity and enough acidity to keep it aloft and penetrating. Cave Spring Cellars. —P.G. abv: 10.5% Price: $60/375 ml 87 Cave Spring 2014 Indian Summer Riesling (Niagara Peninsula). Though it was picked at 29 brix and fermentation stopped with 87 g/L residual sugar, this carries a bitter streak all through the palate. The sweetness shows as a burst of caramel apple. Cave Spring Cellars. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $30/375 ml 89 CHILE SAUVIGNON BLANC Loma Larga 2016 Lomas del Valle Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Lime and greenapple aromas are tight and stony. Bright, juicy and chiseled on the palate, this tastes of wet stones, lime and bell pepper. Citrusy residual flavors along with a note of bitter citrus pith make for an honest finish. Winery Direct. —M.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $18 89 San Pedro 2016 Castillo de Molina Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Elqui Valley). Pungent, pure aromas of citrus and tarragon are appealing. This feels upright and tangy, with bright, driving acidity. Grapefruit, lime and jalapeño flavors finish juicy, with leftover citrus notes and a dash of white pepper. Shaw-Ross International Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11 88 Estampa 2015 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Colchagua Valley). A controlled mix of citrus and herbaceous aromas are what we’ve come to expect from Chilean Sauvignon Blanc. This one kicks into gear with slightly salty flavors of white grapefruit and lime. A crisp finish meets all norms. For what it’s worth, this contains some Viognier and Chardonnay American Estates Wines, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $20 88 Leyda 2016 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Celery, lettuce and lime aromas are cool and green. This is showing tangy, snappy acidity in support of lime, tarragon, sage and scallion flavors. A fresh, racy finish is fitting. MundoVino– The Winebow Group. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 88 Leyda 2014 Lot 4 Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Briny, vegetal aromas of asparagus and jalapeño lead to a viscous palate with blazing coastal acidity. Flavors of lime and tangerine are offset by vegetal bell pepper and asparagus notes, while this feels round, oily and smooth on a finish with good acidic cut. Drink now. MundoVino–The Winebow Group. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $40 87 De Martino 2015 Legado Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Pungent briny citrus aromas announce a lean, tangy palate. This edgy SB features zesty, sharp citrus and green-herb flavors, which are typical for Casablanca. A dilute finish displays watered-down snap. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 87 Siegel 2016 Crucero Collection Sauvignon Blanc (Curicó Valley). A common mix of snappy citrus and green-herb aromas announce a chunky, still-vital palate with pink grapefruit, tangerine and passion fruit flavors. A mild medium-acid finish suggests drinking this as soon as possible. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 87 Valdivieso 2015 Valley Selection Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Crisp aromas veer towards fresh bell pepper and tangerine peel. This feels minerally but also like extracted grape skins. Mixed citrus and green-herb flavors end with a stony lasting feel. Wine Bridge Imports. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $17 87 Viña Bisquertt 2016 La Joya Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Colchagua Valley). Citrusy aromas include pithy notes and a metallic hint of tin. This is more chunky in feel than tight, with moderate snap and acidity. Flavors of citrus fruits and green herbs end with mild acidity. Prestige Beverage Group. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15 86 Autoritas 2015 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Valley). Dusty white-fruit and citrus aromas are more than adequate but nonspecific. This feels round, with salty citrus flavors. A modest finish is doing its best to stay fresh and vital. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 86 Casas del Bosque 2015 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Pungent pyrazine-heavy aromas of bell pepper and asparagus are typical for this winery. A chunky palate is oily in feel, while vegetal-leaning, green flavors of pickled citrus fruits end with a salty note. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 86 Junta 2015 Momentos Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Curicó Valley). Clean pear and apple aromas come in front of a citrusy palate with just enough shearing acidity to keep things balanced. Ringing, lasting lime and orange flavors are slightly briny, while this finishes solid and zesty. Apollo Fine Spirits. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 86 Montes 2016 Classic Series Sauvignon Blanc (Aconcagua Costa). Cool-climate pyrazinic aromas are punchy and feline. This feels good but weaker and more dilute than in most years. Briny, pickled citrus flavors follow the nose, while this ends lean and green but solid enough. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13 86 Santa Rita 2015 120 Sauvignon Blanc (Colchagua Valley). For full review see page 22. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $8 85 Santa Carolina 2016 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Briny citrus and grapefruit aromas are controlled. This feels simple and a bit hollow, while pyrazine-based flavors of grapefruit and green veggies finish bland, with lingering citrus notes. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $11 85 Santa Luz 2015 Alba Sauvignon Blanc (Central Valley). Gritty citrus aromas are oily but adequate. This basic SB tastes of citrus and green vegetables. Beyond that, it’s mostly fresh in feel. Craft + Estate–The Winebow Group. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 85 Undurraga 2015 U Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc (Maipo Valley). Waxy, slightly mealy white-fruit aromas set up a pulpy citrusy palate. This offers salty orange and yeasty flavors in front of a finish that’s struggling to stay fresh. Drink immediately. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10 85 Viña Marty 2014 Ilaia Sauvignon Blanc (Central Valley). Lightly vegetal aromas suggest asparagus. This feels round and chunky but not lazy or flabby. Flavors of citrus and citrus peel include WINEMAG.COM | 59
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BUYINGGUIDE MARCH 2017 MICHAEL HOUS
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The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide Th
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94 Macauley 2014 Pinot Noir (Russia
Page 7 and 8: 93 Iron Horse 2011 Classic Vintage
Page 9 and 10: 92 Acacia 2013 Winery Lake Vineyard
Page 11 and 12: 92 Koyle 2013 Royale Los Lingues Vi
Page 13 and 14: 92 Williams Selyem 2014 Lewis MacGr
Page 15 and 16: 91 Mumm Napa NV Brut Prestige (Napa
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Page 19 and 20: 90 MacRostie 2014 Wildcat Mountain
Page 21 and 22: BEST BUYS BEST BUYS 85 Uptick Viney
Page 23 and 24: 93 J. Lohr 2013 Cuvée Pau (Paso Ro
Page 25 and 26: ness of the blackberry jam and meat
Page 27 and 28: 90 J. Lohr 2014 Estates Los Osos Me
Page 29 and 30: dry-farmed site. It begins with a h
Page 31 and 32: has labeled with the new Los Olivos
Page 33 and 34: is treated with great care, resulti
Page 35 and 36: est floor make it savory and substa
Page 37 and 38: 88 R2 2014 Lennox Pinot Noir (Russi
Page 39 and 40: 90 Ancient Oak Cellars 2012 Reserve
Page 41 and 42: in flavor and easy on the palate. I
Page 43 and 44: 92 La Honda Winery 2015 Chardonnay
Page 45 and 46: 87 Layer Cake 2015 Chardonnay (Cent
Page 47 and 48: 90 Cougar 2015 Falanghina (Temecula
Page 49 and 50: that lead to a tart finish. It poss
Page 51 and 52: 91 Forgeron 2013 Façon Rouge (Colu
Page 53 and 54: 84 Laissez Faire 2015 Red Table Win
Page 55 and 56: in this sprightly semi-dry Riesling
Page 57: and nuanced yet more approachable w
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Page 63 and 64: lackberry finish woody and with scr
Page 65 and 66: 94 RED BLENDS Santa Carolina 2012 V
Page 67 and 68: toward pineapple and citrus. Drink
Page 69 and 70: Beaujolais cru villages near Bourgo
Page 71 and 72: 92 Château des Jacques 2015 Fleuri
Page 73 and 74: fully will blow away as it ages. Dr
Page 75 and 76: well for at least 10-15 years. Vint
Page 77 and 78: admirable freshness, focus and ener
Page 79 and 80: offer several more years of fine dr
Page 81 and 82: French oak, coconut and a balsamic
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Page 85 and 86: 93 Tenuta Sette Cieli 2012 Indaco (
Page 87 and 88: 89 Mazzei 2013 Belguardo Serrata (T
Page 89 and 90: 88 Poggio Mandorlo 2009 Red (Toscan
Page 91 and 92: lack cherry, French oak and white p
Page 93 and 94: time to fully develop. Drink 2020-2
Page 95 and 96: finish is long and very moreish. Sk
Page 97 and 98: ackbone of freshness and concentrat
Page 99 and 100: ipe juicy pear notes are immediatel
Page 101 and 102: ous and lively. Its lemony verve ch
Page 103 and 104: 93 PINOT BLANC Prieler 2015 Pinot B
Page 105 and 106: 93 RED BLENDS Heinrich 2011 terra o
Page 107 and 108: terscotch, plum and dried apricot,
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