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BUYINGGUIDE<br />
somewhat dull on the palate, opting for savory elements<br />
over fruit. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $70<br />
84<br />
Robert Mondavi 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Napa Valley). Chalky, dusty cedar, currant<br />
and pencil shavings contribute a classic feel to this<br />
wine that is blended with 8% Merlot and 5% Cabernet<br />
Franc. Somewhat austere in style, it’s also full<br />
bodied and abundantly ripe, with a harshness to the<br />
finish. —V.B.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $28<br />
83<br />
Textbook 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa<br />
Valley). This wine is both reduced and<br />
diluted, with astringency biting at its heels. It may<br />
simply be underripe. —V.B.<br />
abv: 13.3% Price: $33<br />
91<br />
CABERNET FRANC<br />
Galvan 2013 Russo Family Vineyard Cabernet<br />
Franc (Solano County). This is a big, concentrated<br />
and lush-textured wine, bolder and thicker<br />
than many of its peers and beautifully laced with<br />
dark berry, dark chocolate and cardamom flavors.<br />
The mouthfeel is full and gripping, as the many layers<br />
of fine tannins coat the palate and help the rich<br />
flavors linger on the finsh. —J.G.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $36<br />
91<br />
Jarvis 2013 Will Jarvis’ Science Project Cabernet<br />
Franc (Napa Valley). This wine is named<br />
for the producer’s son and his real-life 8th-grade<br />
project making one small barrel of wine. It continues<br />
on the theme, blending in 5% Merlot and aging<br />
again in new French oak, all small barrels. Meant to<br />
be enjoyed young, it shows a youthful exuberance of<br />
smoked wood, pillowy tannin, peppercorn and dried<br />
herb. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $140<br />
91<br />
Meeker 2013 Cabernet Franc (Dry Creek Valley).<br />
For full review see page 14.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $45<br />
90<br />
Maxville 2014 Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley).<br />
For full review see page 19.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $67<br />
89<br />
Naggiar 2014 Estate Cabernet Franc (Sierra<br />
Foothills). Bold and substantial, this fullbodied<br />
and firmly tannic wine has a good core of<br />
ripe black berry and black cherry trimmed with<br />
lighter cinnamon and vanilla notes from oak. It’s<br />
very attractive in a firm, palate-gripping way. —J.G.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $26<br />
89<br />
Prima Materia 2013 Cabernet Franc (California).<br />
This smooth, layered wine is medium<br />
bodied, well balanced and rich, with soft tannins to<br />
give it heft. Flavors run to black cherry, clove and<br />
cinnamon. The great sense of polish and composure<br />
make it a pleasure to drink. —J.G.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $26<br />
89<br />
St. Supéry 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc<br />
(Rutherford). Cedar dust, dried herb, currant<br />
and graphite combine effortlessly in this<br />
restrained wine, subtle in buried tannin. It shows<br />
voluptuous body with moderate acidity and a ripeness<br />
on the finish. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $65<br />
88<br />
Jarvis 2012 Estate Grown Cave Fermented<br />
Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). This is a<br />
100% varietal wine grown entirely on the producer’s<br />
estate. Aged nearly two years in all-new French<br />
Nevers oak, it shows a tinge of smoke—campfire<br />
nearly—from the barrel, followed by a reduced<br />
expression of blueberry and herbes de Provence.<br />
Firm, integrated tannins don’t distract. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $105<br />
88<br />
Rutherford Hill 2013 Cabernet Franc (Napa<br />
Valley). This is a simple, soft and quite floral<br />
wine, showing a wealth of dusty tannin and fullbodied<br />
power. Cedar and pomegranate are the highlights<br />
that ride a textured wave of chalky oak. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $45<br />
87<br />
William Harrison 2012 Estate Cabernet Franc<br />
(Rutherford). This 100% varietal wine<br />
offers a simplicity of blueberry, black licorice and<br />
chocolate wrapped in integrated tannin and oak.<br />
Full bodied and ripe, it softens in the glass to a<br />
rounded finish. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $65<br />
95<br />
MERLOT<br />
La Jota Vineyard 2013 Merlot (Howell Mountain).<br />
For full review see page 3.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $85<br />
94<br />
Mt. Brave 2013 Merlot (Mount Veeder). For<br />
full review see page 5.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $75<br />
94<br />
Pahlmeyer 2013 Merlot (Napa Valley). The<br />
wine launched cinematically by Robert<br />
Redford in “Indecent Proposal,” this delivers a<br />
succulently memorable and seductive mix of crisp<br />
cassis and meaty rare beef, a sanguine underpinning<br />
that gives it intrigue. Full bodied and ripely<br />
crafted, it is completely satisfying in its classical<br />
components of sage and cedar, with a lingering lust<br />
of chocolate-covered cherry. —V.B.<br />
abv: 15.2% Price: $85<br />
93<br />
Duckhorn 2013 Merlot (Carneros). This<br />
100% varietal wine hails entirely from<br />
Hyde Vineyard, a meticulously farmed and magical<br />
site. With a rich nose leading the way, it shows<br />
dusty licorice and chocolate plum. Voluptuously<br />
well crafted, it finishes in a lengthy tinge of baking<br />
spice. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $72<br />
93<br />
Jarvis 2012 Estate Grown Cave Fermented<br />
Reserve Merlot (Napa Valley). The third<br />
reserve by this producer made of this variety, this<br />
is 100% estate and varietal. It unfurls in fireplace<br />
smoke, red and black berry, leather and tobacco,<br />
with an edginess of cedar and herb. The texture is<br />
soft and integrated around a full-bodied concentration<br />
of flavor. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $200<br />
92<br />
Ballentine 2014 Estate Grown Merlot (Napa<br />
Valley). For full review see page 9.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $35<br />
92<br />
Duckhorn 2013 Three Palms Vineyard Merlot<br />
(Napa Valley). For full review see page 9.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $95<br />
91<br />
Black Stallion 2013 Limited Release Merlot<br />
(Napa Valley). For full review see page 13.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $40<br />
91<br />
J. Lohr 2013 Cuvée Pom (Paso Robles). For full<br />
review see page 14.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $50<br />
91<br />
Jarvis 2012 Estate Grown Cave Fermented<br />
Merlot (Napa Valley). Enviable structure<br />
marks this lovely wine that appears to have been<br />
made in a slightly reductive style. Light oak, a bouquet<br />
of dried herb and vanilla ride along a mediumbodied<br />
texture that’s soft and silky, with a panache<br />
of juicy blackberry and currant on the finish. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $95<br />
91<br />
Rutherford Ranch 2014 Merlot (Napa Valley).<br />
For full review see page 15.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $26<br />
91<br />
Y Rousseau 2013 Pépé Cavedale Vineyard Merlot<br />
(Moon Mountain District Sonoma County).<br />
Named for the producer’s French grandfather, Pépé<br />
is peppery in clove and Mexican cinnamon, with an<br />
abundance of black cherry. Made in small amounts,<br />
it shows a softness around its rounded edges of<br />
structure and moderate body of acidity, finishing<br />
with length and grace. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $50<br />
90<br />
Decoy 2014 Merlot (Sonoma County). For<br />
full review see page 17.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $25<br />
90<br />
Ehlers Estate 2013 Merlot (St. Helena).<br />
From entirely estate-grown fruit and<br />
blended with 5% Cabernet Franc, this is a soft, full<br />
and well-structured wine, sanguine in currant, cassis<br />
and a dusting of brambly raspberry. Inviting, it<br />
finishes in a pleasing note of mocha. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $55<br />
26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017