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BUYINGGUIDE<br />

somewhat dull on the palate, opting for savory elements<br />

over fruit. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.6% Price: $70<br />

84<br />

Robert Mondavi 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />

(Napa Valley). Chalky, dusty cedar, currant<br />

and pencil shavings contribute a classic feel to this<br />

wine that is blended with 8% Merlot and 5% Cabernet<br />

Franc. Somewhat austere in style, it’s also full<br />

bodied and abundantly ripe, with a harshness to the<br />

finish. —V.B.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $28<br />

83<br />

Textbook 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa<br />

Valley). This wine is both reduced and<br />

diluted, with astringency biting at its heels. It may<br />

simply be underripe. —V.B.<br />

abv: 13.3% Price: $33<br />

91<br />

CABERNET FRANC<br />

Galvan 2013 Russo Family Vineyard Cabernet<br />

Franc (Solano County). This is a big, concentrated<br />

and lush-textured wine, bolder and thicker<br />

than many of its peers and beautifully laced with<br />

dark berry, dark chocolate and cardamom flavors.<br />

The mouthfeel is full and gripping, as the many layers<br />

of fine tannins coat the palate and help the rich<br />

flavors linger on the finsh. —J.G.<br />

abv: 14.4% Price: $36<br />

91<br />

Jarvis 2013 Will Jarvis’ Science Project Cabernet<br />

Franc (Napa Valley). This wine is named<br />

for the producer’s son and his real-life 8th-grade<br />

project making one small barrel of wine. It continues<br />

on the theme, blending in 5% Merlot and aging<br />

again in new French oak, all small barrels. Meant to<br />

be enjoyed young, it shows a youthful exuberance of<br />

smoked wood, pillowy tannin, peppercorn and dried<br />

herb. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.3% Price: $140<br />

91<br />

Meeker 2013 Cabernet Franc (Dry Creek Valley).<br />

For full review see page 14.<br />

abv: 14.7% Price: $45<br />

90<br />

Maxville 2014 Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley).<br />

For full review see page 19.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $67<br />

89<br />

Naggiar 2014 Estate Cabernet Franc (Sierra<br />

Foothills). Bold and substantial, this fullbodied<br />

and firmly tannic wine has a good core of<br />

ripe black berry and black cherry trimmed with<br />

lighter cinnamon and vanilla notes from oak. It’s<br />

very attractive in a firm, palate-gripping way. —J.G.<br />

abv: 14.2% Price: $26<br />

89<br />

Prima Materia 2013 Cabernet Franc (California).<br />

This smooth, layered wine is medium<br />

bodied, well balanced and rich, with soft tannins to<br />

give it heft. Flavors run to black cherry, clove and<br />

cinnamon. The great sense of polish and composure<br />

make it a pleasure to drink. —J.G.<br />

abv: 14.3% Price: $26<br />

89<br />

St. Supéry 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc<br />

(Rutherford). Cedar dust, dried herb, currant<br />

and graphite combine effortlessly in this<br />

restrained wine, subtle in buried tannin. It shows<br />

voluptuous body with moderate acidity and a ripeness<br />

on the finish. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $65<br />

88<br />

Jarvis 2012 Estate Grown Cave Fermented<br />

Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). This is a<br />

100% varietal wine grown entirely on the producer’s<br />

estate. Aged nearly two years in all-new French<br />

Nevers oak, it shows a tinge of smoke—campfire<br />

nearly—from the barrel, followed by a reduced<br />

expression of blueberry and herbes de Provence.<br />

Firm, integrated tannins don’t distract. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $105<br />

88<br />

Rutherford Hill 2013 Cabernet Franc (Napa<br />

Valley). This is a simple, soft and quite floral<br />

wine, showing a wealth of dusty tannin and fullbodied<br />

power. Cedar and pomegranate are the highlights<br />

that ride a textured wave of chalky oak. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $45<br />

87<br />

William Harrison 2012 Estate Cabernet Franc<br />

(Rutherford). This 100% varietal wine<br />

offers a simplicity of blueberry, black licorice and<br />

chocolate wrapped in integrated tannin and oak.<br />

Full bodied and ripe, it softens in the glass to a<br />

rounded finish. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.6% Price: $65<br />

95<br />

MERLOT<br />

La Jota Vineyard 2013 Merlot (Howell Mountain).<br />

For full review see page 3.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $85<br />

94<br />

Mt. Brave 2013 Merlot (Mount Veeder). For<br />

full review see page 5.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $75<br />

94<br />

Pahlmeyer 2013 Merlot (Napa Valley). The<br />

wine launched cinematically by Robert<br />

Redford in “Indecent Proposal,” this delivers a<br />

succulently memorable and seductive mix of crisp<br />

cassis and meaty rare beef, a sanguine underpinning<br />

that gives it intrigue. Full bodied and ripely<br />

crafted, it is completely satisfying in its classical<br />

components of sage and cedar, with a lingering lust<br />

of chocolate-covered cherry. —V.B.<br />

abv: 15.2% Price: $85<br />

93<br />

Duckhorn 2013 Merlot (Carneros). This<br />

100% varietal wine hails entirely from<br />

Hyde Vineyard, a meticulously farmed and magical<br />

site. With a rich nose leading the way, it shows<br />

dusty licorice and chocolate plum. Voluptuously<br />

well crafted, it finishes in a lengthy tinge of baking<br />

spice. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.9% Price: $72<br />

93<br />

Jarvis 2012 Estate Grown Cave Fermented<br />

Reserve Merlot (Napa Valley). The third<br />

reserve by this producer made of this variety, this<br />

is 100% estate and varietal. It unfurls in fireplace<br />

smoke, red and black berry, leather and tobacco,<br />

with an edginess of cedar and herb. The texture is<br />

soft and integrated around a full-bodied concentration<br />

of flavor. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.8% Price: $200<br />

92<br />

Ballentine 2014 Estate Grown Merlot (Napa<br />

Valley). For full review see page 9.<br />

abv: 14.6% Price: $35<br />

92<br />

Duckhorn 2013 Three Palms Vineyard Merlot<br />

(Napa Valley). For full review see page 9.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $95<br />

91<br />

Black Stallion 2013 Limited Release Merlot<br />

(Napa Valley). For full review see page 13.<br />

abv: 14.8% Price: $40<br />

91<br />

J. Lohr 2013 Cuvée Pom (Paso Robles). For full<br />

review see page 14.<br />

abv: 14.9% Price: $50<br />

91<br />

Jarvis 2012 Estate Grown Cave Fermented<br />

Merlot (Napa Valley). Enviable structure<br />

marks this lovely wine that appears to have been<br />

made in a slightly reductive style. Light oak, a bouquet<br />

of dried herb and vanilla ride along a mediumbodied<br />

texture that’s soft and silky, with a panache<br />

of juicy blackberry and currant on the finish. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.2% Price: $95<br />

91<br />

Rutherford Ranch 2014 Merlot (Napa Valley).<br />

For full review see page 15.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $26<br />

91<br />

Y Rousseau 2013 Pépé Cavedale Vineyard Merlot<br />

(Moon Mountain District Sonoma County).<br />

Named for the producer’s French grandfather, Pépé<br />

is peppery in clove and Mexican cinnamon, with an<br />

abundance of black cherry. Made in small amounts,<br />

it shows a softness around its rounded edges of<br />

structure and moderate body of acidity, finishing<br />

with length and grace. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.2% Price: $50<br />

90<br />

Decoy 2014 Merlot (Sonoma County). For<br />

full review see page 17.<br />

abv: 13.9% Price: $25<br />

90<br />

Ehlers Estate 2013 Merlot (St. Helena).<br />

From entirely estate-grown fruit and<br />

blended with 5% Cabernet Franc, this is a soft, full<br />

and well-structured wine, sanguine in currant, cassis<br />

and a dusting of brambly raspberry. Inviting, it<br />

finishes in a pleasing note of mocha. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.2% Price: $55<br />

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017

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