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BUYINGGUIDE<br />

91<br />

R&A Pfaffl 2015 Hommage Reserve Grüner<br />

Veltliner (Weinviertel). Ripe notions of<br />

fruit—typical for 2015—are apparent from the word<br />

go. There is juicy yellow plum and even a hint of<br />

tropicality—pineapple perhaps. This is rich and<br />

rounded, balanced with generous lemon freshness<br />

and textured with lees contact. There is weight<br />

on the midpalate, which leaves a lasting, if juicy<br />

impression. Esprit du Vin. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $40<br />

91<br />

Türk 2015 Thurnerberg Reserve Grüner Veltliner<br />

(Kremstal). Very aromatic clouds of pear<br />

and mirabelle dominate the appetizing nose. The<br />

palate has the same freshness and fruity flow, especially<br />

of more yellow plum and a spicy hint of grapefruit<br />

zest. There is something fluid that suggests<br />

ease and joy. The spicy fruit flavors linger long on<br />

this gentle but refreshing, rounded white. Balanced<br />

Wine Selections LLC. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $27<br />

90<br />

Ebner-Ebenauer 2015 Grüner Veltliner<br />

(Weinviertel). The nose gives little away but<br />

the palate is full of lemony freshness and real verve.<br />

Taut and light on the palate, this is real refreshment<br />

with an aftertaste of lemon zest and a slight touch of<br />

savory yeast. Winemonger. —A.K.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $17<br />

90<br />

Fischer 2015 Privat Grüner Veltliner Smaragd<br />

(Wachau). Sumptuously ripe fruit on<br />

the nose carries seamlessly onto the generous palate:<br />

here the ripeness of juicy mirabelle is even more<br />

evident, but countered by much-needed freshness.<br />

The core of fruit is full on and concentrated and finishes<br />

just a little warm. Frederick Wildman & Sons,<br />

Ltd. —A.K.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $30<br />

90<br />

Forstreiter 2015 Schiefer Reserve Grüner<br />

Veltliner (Kremstal). A hint of juicy pineapple<br />

on the nose leads to a fruity palate that suggests<br />

tropical largesse as well as juicy yellow pear<br />

and plum. This generosity is corseted very softly by<br />

gentle citrus freshness. The overall impression is<br />

one of juicy drinkability and burgeoning fruit with<br />

a lovely lively grapefruit finish. Frederick Wildman<br />

& Sons, Ltd. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $19<br />

90<br />

Graf Hardegg 2015 Steinbügel Grüner Veltliner<br />

(Niederösterreich). Lifted primary<br />

aromas of green pear peel hit you first with their<br />

inviting freshness. The palate has the gentle vanilla<br />

kiss of oak and an utterly creamy texture but finishes<br />

beautifully with pure lemon freshness. World<br />

Wine Headquarters. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $39<br />

90<br />

Hiedler 2015 Ried Thal Reserve Grüner Veltliner<br />

(Kamptal). Aromatic hints of ripe,<br />

yellow mirabelle plum grace the nose. The palate<br />

gives more flesh to this juicy notion and tempers it<br />

with a yeasty savory edge. Lemony freshness echoes<br />

through this fresh, friendly and delicious wine.<br />

Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5%<br />

Price: $NA<br />

90<br />

Kurt Angerer 2015 Eichenstaude Riede Kiesling<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). The easy<br />

joy of sun-drenched stone fruit is evident on nose<br />

and palate. The exuberance is only increased by a<br />

smattering of lively white pepper and savory yeast.<br />

A total joy. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $38<br />

90<br />

Kurt Angerer 2015 Spies Riede Ametsberg<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Yeasty mellowness<br />

on the nose brings peppery freshness. The<br />

palate adds lemon zest and even more savory soylike<br />

yeast. There almost is something salty on the<br />

palate. The finish is wonderfully fresh and moreish.<br />

Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $32<br />

90<br />

Müller-Grossmann 2015 Alte Reben Reserve<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Yellow pear<br />

and plum tinged with savory yeast notes make for<br />

a spicy subtle opening on both the nose and the<br />

palate. The yeast flavors continue to add an extra<br />

flavor dimension to the fresh palate, which has all<br />

the generosity of the ripe 2015 vintage about it and<br />

a gentle acidity that is reminiscent of ripe Amalfi<br />

lemon. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $33<br />

90<br />

R&A Pfaffl 2015 Goldjoch Reserve Grüner<br />

Veltliner (Weinviertel). For full review see<br />

page 19.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $40<br />

90<br />

R&A Pfaffl 2015 Zeiseneck Grüner Veltliner<br />

(Weinviertel). For full review see page 19.<br />

abv: 12% Price: $18<br />

90<br />

Rainer Wess 2015 Pfaffenberg Reserve<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Wonderfully<br />

heady hints of yuzu play about the nose. The palate,<br />

on the other hand, is characterized by ripe juicy<br />

mirabelle plums. This is plump and opulent, yet<br />

structured: a rounded and generous souvenir of the<br />

2015 vintage. Russell Herman Selection. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $40<br />

90<br />

Setzer 2015 Die Lage Reserve Grüner Veltliner<br />

(Weinviertel). Yellow mirabelle plums<br />

are just hinted at on the nose. They become clearer<br />

on the palate where they are joined by a generous<br />

dollop of white pepper and creamy yeast. Skurnik<br />

Wines, Inc. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $24<br />

90<br />

Steininger 2015 Grand Grü Reserve Grüner<br />

Veltliner (Kamptal). A slightly earthy nose<br />

of yellow plum and stone fruit leads to a fresh textured<br />

palate, which shows off mirabelles and lemons.<br />

There is a pleasant phenolic edge and a clean,<br />

long finish. KWSelection.com. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $30<br />

90<br />

Steininger 2015 Kittmannsberg Reserve<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). The nose does<br />

not want to give a lot away. The palate, however,<br />

shows spicy hints of nettle and a fresh bouncy zesty<br />

backbone of lemon and grapefruit, which makes it all<br />

the more appetizing. KWSelection.com. —A.K.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $35<br />

90<br />

Türk 2015 Kremser Sandgrube Reserve<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). The inviting<br />

notion of gently sun-ripened yellow plums on the<br />

nose draws you in. The palate follows this with<br />

gentle, juicy but balanced ripeness, featuring mirabelle<br />

plum and pear. There is a welcome grapefruit<br />

zestiness to the body and finish that makes this<br />

refreshing and moreish. Balanced Wine Selections<br />

LLC. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $21<br />

90<br />

Unger 2015 Oberfeld Alte Reben Reserve<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). A subdued<br />

nose leads onto a fresh easy-drinking palate that<br />

is characterized by generous spritz and ripe almost<br />

plump pear fruit that is just tempered by citrus<br />

freshness. This is so easy to drink and so refreshing<br />

with that spritz. Verity Wine Partners. —A.K.<br />

abv: 14%<br />

Price: $NA<br />

89<br />

Ebner-Ebenauer 2015 Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich).<br />

Slight spritz and lightness<br />

of touch characterize this easy light-bodied wine.<br />

A go-to drink for versatility and food friendliness.<br />

Make sure you don’t pack your picnic basket without<br />

it so you can relish its sprightly fresh notes of<br />

white pepper. Winemonger. Best Buy. —A.K.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $14<br />

89<br />

Fischer 2015 Fraueneweingärten Grüner<br />

Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Generously<br />

ripe yellow plums are ample on the nose and turn<br />

into fleshy, broad fruit on the rounded palate where<br />

welcome grapefruit spice adds direction and some<br />

drive. The finish is gentle and full fruited. Frederick<br />

Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />

89<br />

Hermann Moser 2015 Fortissimo Reserve<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Gentle fruit<br />

and ripeness are apparent in the ripe pear notes<br />

that dominate on nose and palate. This is easy, light<br />

bodied, fresh and fruity. Drink soon while aromatics<br />

are at their peak. Boutique Wine Collection. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $30<br />

89<br />

Hermann Moser 2015 Gebling Der Löss<br />

Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Lifted,<br />

primary notions of pear drop make for an appetizing<br />

opening. The palate is light and bouncy and full of<br />

sunny pears—both green and yellow. The finish is<br />

fresh and clean. This is lively and thirst-quenching.<br />

Drink soon. Boutique Wine Collection. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $45<br />

89<br />

Hermann Moser 2015 Gebling Hannah<br />

Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Very<br />

98 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017

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