You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
BUYINGGUIDE<br />
91<br />
R&A Pfaffl 2015 Hommage Reserve Grüner<br />
Veltliner (Weinviertel). Ripe notions of<br />
fruit—typical for 2015—are apparent from the word<br />
go. There is juicy yellow plum and even a hint of<br />
tropicality—pineapple perhaps. This is rich and<br />
rounded, balanced with generous lemon freshness<br />
and textured with lees contact. There is weight<br />
on the midpalate, which leaves a lasting, if juicy<br />
impression. Esprit du Vin. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $40<br />
91<br />
Türk 2015 Thurnerberg Reserve Grüner Veltliner<br />
(Kremstal). Very aromatic clouds of pear<br />
and mirabelle dominate the appetizing nose. The<br />
palate has the same freshness and fruity flow, especially<br />
of more yellow plum and a spicy hint of grapefruit<br />
zest. There is something fluid that suggests<br />
ease and joy. The spicy fruit flavors linger long on<br />
this gentle but refreshing, rounded white. Balanced<br />
Wine Selections LLC. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $27<br />
90<br />
Ebner-Ebenauer 2015 Grüner Veltliner<br />
(Weinviertel). The nose gives little away but<br />
the palate is full of lemony freshness and real verve.<br />
Taut and light on the palate, this is real refreshment<br />
with an aftertaste of lemon zest and a slight touch of<br />
savory yeast. Winemonger. —A.K.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $17<br />
90<br />
Fischer 2015 Privat Grüner Veltliner Smaragd<br />
(Wachau). Sumptuously ripe fruit on<br />
the nose carries seamlessly onto the generous palate:<br />
here the ripeness of juicy mirabelle is even more<br />
evident, but countered by much-needed freshness.<br />
The core of fruit is full on and concentrated and finishes<br />
just a little warm. Frederick Wildman & Sons,<br />
Ltd. —A.K.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $30<br />
90<br />
Forstreiter 2015 Schiefer Reserve Grüner<br />
Veltliner (Kremstal). A hint of juicy pineapple<br />
on the nose leads to a fruity palate that suggests<br />
tropical largesse as well as juicy yellow pear<br />
and plum. This generosity is corseted very softly by<br />
gentle citrus freshness. The overall impression is<br />
one of juicy drinkability and burgeoning fruit with<br />
a lovely lively grapefruit finish. Frederick Wildman<br />
& Sons, Ltd. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $19<br />
90<br />
Graf Hardegg 2015 Steinbügel Grüner Veltliner<br />
(Niederösterreich). Lifted primary<br />
aromas of green pear peel hit you first with their<br />
inviting freshness. The palate has the gentle vanilla<br />
kiss of oak and an utterly creamy texture but finishes<br />
beautifully with pure lemon freshness. World<br />
Wine Headquarters. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $39<br />
90<br />
Hiedler 2015 Ried Thal Reserve Grüner Veltliner<br />
(Kamptal). Aromatic hints of ripe,<br />
yellow mirabelle plum grace the nose. The palate<br />
gives more flesh to this juicy notion and tempers it<br />
with a yeasty savory edge. Lemony freshness echoes<br />
through this fresh, friendly and delicious wine.<br />
Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5%<br />
Price: $NA<br />
90<br />
Kurt Angerer 2015 Eichenstaude Riede Kiesling<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). The easy<br />
joy of sun-drenched stone fruit is evident on nose<br />
and palate. The exuberance is only increased by a<br />
smattering of lively white pepper and savory yeast.<br />
A total joy. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $38<br />
90<br />
Kurt Angerer 2015 Spies Riede Ametsberg<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Yeasty mellowness<br />
on the nose brings peppery freshness. The<br />
palate adds lemon zest and even more savory soylike<br />
yeast. There almost is something salty on the<br />
palate. The finish is wonderfully fresh and moreish.<br />
Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $32<br />
90<br />
Müller-Grossmann 2015 Alte Reben Reserve<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Yellow pear<br />
and plum tinged with savory yeast notes make for<br />
a spicy subtle opening on both the nose and the<br />
palate. The yeast flavors continue to add an extra<br />
flavor dimension to the fresh palate, which has all<br />
the generosity of the ripe 2015 vintage about it and<br />
a gentle acidity that is reminiscent of ripe Amalfi<br />
lemon. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $33<br />
90<br />
R&A Pfaffl 2015 Goldjoch Reserve Grüner<br />
Veltliner (Weinviertel). For full review see<br />
page 19.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $40<br />
90<br />
R&A Pfaffl 2015 Zeiseneck Grüner Veltliner<br />
(Weinviertel). For full review see page 19.<br />
abv: 12% Price: $18<br />
90<br />
Rainer Wess 2015 Pfaffenberg Reserve<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Wonderfully<br />
heady hints of yuzu play about the nose. The palate,<br />
on the other hand, is characterized by ripe juicy<br />
mirabelle plums. This is plump and opulent, yet<br />
structured: a rounded and generous souvenir of the<br />
2015 vintage. Russell Herman Selection. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $40<br />
90<br />
Setzer 2015 Die Lage Reserve Grüner Veltliner<br />
(Weinviertel). Yellow mirabelle plums<br />
are just hinted at on the nose. They become clearer<br />
on the palate where they are joined by a generous<br />
dollop of white pepper and creamy yeast. Skurnik<br />
Wines, Inc. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $24<br />
90<br />
Steininger 2015 Grand Grü Reserve Grüner<br />
Veltliner (Kamptal). A slightly earthy nose<br />
of yellow plum and stone fruit leads to a fresh textured<br />
palate, which shows off mirabelles and lemons.<br />
There is a pleasant phenolic edge and a clean,<br />
long finish. KWSelection.com. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $30<br />
90<br />
Steininger 2015 Kittmannsberg Reserve<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). The nose does<br />
not want to give a lot away. The palate, however,<br />
shows spicy hints of nettle and a fresh bouncy zesty<br />
backbone of lemon and grapefruit, which makes it all<br />
the more appetizing. KWSelection.com. —A.K.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $35<br />
90<br />
Türk 2015 Kremser Sandgrube Reserve<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). The inviting<br />
notion of gently sun-ripened yellow plums on the<br />
nose draws you in. The palate follows this with<br />
gentle, juicy but balanced ripeness, featuring mirabelle<br />
plum and pear. There is a welcome grapefruit<br />
zestiness to the body and finish that makes this<br />
refreshing and moreish. Balanced Wine Selections<br />
LLC. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $21<br />
90<br />
Unger 2015 Oberfeld Alte Reben Reserve<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). A subdued<br />
nose leads onto a fresh easy-drinking palate that<br />
is characterized by generous spritz and ripe almost<br />
plump pear fruit that is just tempered by citrus<br />
freshness. This is so easy to drink and so refreshing<br />
with that spritz. Verity Wine Partners. —A.K.<br />
abv: 14%<br />
Price: $NA<br />
89<br />
Ebner-Ebenauer 2015 Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich).<br />
Slight spritz and lightness<br />
of touch characterize this easy light-bodied wine.<br />
A go-to drink for versatility and food friendliness.<br />
Make sure you don’t pack your picnic basket without<br />
it so you can relish its sprightly fresh notes of<br />
white pepper. Winemonger. Best Buy. —A.K.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $14<br />
89<br />
Fischer 2015 Fraueneweingärten Grüner<br />
Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Generously<br />
ripe yellow plums are ample on the nose and turn<br />
into fleshy, broad fruit on the rounded palate where<br />
welcome grapefruit spice adds direction and some<br />
drive. The finish is gentle and full fruited. Frederick<br />
Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />
89<br />
Hermann Moser 2015 Fortissimo Reserve<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Gentle fruit<br />
and ripeness are apparent in the ripe pear notes<br />
that dominate on nose and palate. This is easy, light<br />
bodied, fresh and fruity. Drink soon while aromatics<br />
are at their peak. Boutique Wine Collection. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $30<br />
89<br />
Hermann Moser 2015 Gebling Der Löss<br />
Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Lifted,<br />
primary notions of pear drop make for an appetizing<br />
opening. The palate is light and bouncy and full of<br />
sunny pears—both green and yellow. The finish is<br />
fresh and clean. This is lively and thirst-quenching.<br />
Drink soon. Boutique Wine Collection. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $45<br />
89<br />
Hermann Moser 2015 Gebling Hannah<br />
Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Very<br />
98 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017