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BUYINGGUIDE
95
Williams Selyem 2014 Allen Vineyard Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley). Allen Vineyard
grapes have the maturity and complexity to
impart a boldly balanced roundness of lemon curd,
fig and apple, plus a searing undercurrent of salty
minerality. With substantial weight, and texture for
miles, it remains bright and fresh in the glass, with
a lingering impression of cinnamon toast. —V.B.
abv: 14.7% Price: $58
94
Golden Triangle 2013 Syrah (Paso Robles
Willow Creek District). It’s a good thing
Garagiste Festival cofounder Stewart McLennan
caught the winemaking bug. This delicious bottling
shows black currant, plum, blueberry, fennel, lavender,
vanilla and gingerbread spice on the nose.
Elegant purple-flower elements kick off the palate,
and then come waves of blueberry-chiffon cake,
blackberry juice, sea-salt caramel and a touch of
vanilla. —M.K.
abv: 14.9% Price: $55
94
Jada Vineyard & Winery 2014 Passing By
Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles Willow
Creek District). This is an extracted and dark style of
Cab, showing tar, black pepper, espresso, deep purple
fruit and loam on the nose. Baked black plum,
elderberry and blackberry fruits show strongly on
the palate, which is made deliciously complex by
mocha, coffee syrup and cracked pepper accents.
Mouthcoating tannins ensure a long cellar life; it
should cellar well through 2034. Cellar Selection.
—M.K.
abv: 15.5% Price: $65
94
El Lugar 2014 Rincon Vineyards Pinot Noir
(Arroyo Grande Valley). Pretty aromas of
rose petal, raspberry, hibiscus and slate make for a
lovely entry to this wine from a historic vineyard in
southern San Luis Obispo County. Made from just
the 2A clone, it has refined cranberry-fruit flavors
laced with eucalyptus oil and Earl Grey tea. —M.K.
abv: 13.7% Price: $46
94
J. Lohr 2013 Cuvée St. E (Paso Robles). The
most easily accessible of J. Lohr’s Bordeaux
series, this Cabernet Franc-led ode to Saint- Émilion
opens with caramel, vanilla and crème de cassis on
the lavish nose. There is ample structure on the palate,
with medium tannins, but it’s soft enough to
enjoy now, with rich fudge, clove and chai flavors
laid across tasty black fruits. —M.K.
abv: 14.9% Price: $50
94
Jada Vineyard & Winery 2014 WCS Jack John
(Paso Robles Willow Creek District). Plush
black-currant aromas meet with light licorice and
a plum-pudding note on the nose of this 70% Grenache,
28% Syrah, 1% Mourvèdre and 1% Viognier
blend. It dries up tightly on the palate, showing
blackberry alongside strong licorice and violet elements,
all framed by a chalky structure. —M.K.
abv: 15.5% Price: $75
94
Gloria Ferrer 2005 Carneros Cuvée (Carneros).
Disgorged in October 2015, this sparkler
opens with sublime green-apple tones, offering
both tartness and stony minerality. A crisp, lemony
mousse adds freshness and vibrancy to the complex
hazelnut and brioche characteristics. This wine has
long legs and memorable completeness. —V.B.
abv: 12.5% Price: $75
94
Jada Vineyard & Winery 2014 Jersey Girl
Syrah (Paso Robles Willow Creek District).
Elegant aromas of gingerbread spice, baked blueberry,
blackberry and vanilla show on the nose of
this layered bottling. Flavors are well integrated and
presented atop a soft but noticeable structure, thick
with lavender, beef, black currant and allspice on
the finish. —M.K.
abv: 15.5% Price: $55
94
Les Belles Collines 2013 Les Sommets Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This smallproduction
wine is dense in currant and licorice
tones, both generous and lengthy on the palate.
Firm tannins lend solid structure, with ample acidity
to balance. A clove flavor adds depth to the fruit
and lingers on the enduiring finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.6% Price: $90
4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017