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BUYINGGUIDE<br />
88<br />
Château de la Terrière 2015 Brouilly. From<br />
an estate enveloping a magnificent medieval<br />
castle, this is a lightly structured cru wine with red<br />
cherry and berry flavors. It has a backdrop of tannins<br />
and acidity that give it structure. The wine is ripe<br />
and fruity at the end and ready to drink. Imperial<br />
Wine & Spirits. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13%<br />
Price: $NA<br />
88<br />
Georges Duboeuf 2015 Domaine de Combiaty<br />
(Brouilly). The wine is produced from a<br />
15-acre parcel of 60-year-old vines. With concentration<br />
as well as juicy acidity, the wine is structured<br />
and needing to age for a few months. Red currant<br />
and berry fruits are shot through with a mineral<br />
aftertaste. Drink from 2018. Quintessential Wines.<br />
—R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $20<br />
88<br />
Joseph Drouhin 2015 Hospices de Belleville<br />
(Brouilly). This is Drouhan’s second vintage<br />
of handling the vines, wines and marketing in partnership<br />
with the Hospices de Belleville charity. This<br />
open generous wine is packed with ripe red fruit and<br />
given shape by light tannins. There is a fresh crisp<br />
aftertaste that gives the wine a great lift. Dreyfus,<br />
Ashby & Co. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13%<br />
Price: $NA<br />
87<br />
Georges Duboeuf 2015 Château de Nervers<br />
(Brouilly). This grand estate was once a<br />
hunting ground for an even grander nearby chateau.<br />
The cru wine that’s now produced here is crisp and<br />
fruity, streaked through with acidity and red currants.<br />
It has a touch of tannin as well as minerality.<br />
Drink from late 2017. Quintessential Wines. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $20<br />
87<br />
Jean-Paul Brun 2015 Pisse Vieille (Brouilly).<br />
This is a ripe, soft and rich cru wine. With<br />
its attractive cherries and gentle tannic structure, it<br />
is fruity and easy. The acidity that comes through at<br />
the end gives the wine a crisp aftertaste. Drink now.<br />
Louis/Dressner Selections. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $27<br />
87<br />
Pardon et Fils 2015 Les Quartelets (Brouilly).<br />
Produced from cru vines at the base of Mount<br />
Brouilly, the wine has structure as well as ripe blackplum<br />
fruits. It is generous and its fruit is well balanced<br />
by acidity and solid tannins. The wines is<br />
ready to drink. Lionstone International. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $23<br />
86<br />
Château de Corcelles 2015 Brouilly. In its<br />
traditional Beaujolais bottle, like the onepint<br />
pot that was served in local restaurants, this<br />
is a soft and fruity wine. It has classic red-cherry<br />
fruits and light tannins. The aftertaste is juicy with<br />
just a hint of banana. Seaview Imports. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $20<br />
86<br />
Château des Tours 2015 Brouilly. Planted<br />
around a 12th-century fortress, the vines of<br />
this estate have given a crisp wine with red-berry<br />
fruit. Along with its fruit, the wine has fine bright<br />
acidity and a core of dryer tannins. Like most cru<br />
wines from Beaujolais’s biggest appellation, it is<br />
ready to drink now. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $20<br />
86<br />
Georges Duboeuf 2015 Domaine de la Martingale<br />
(Brouilly). This nine-acre property<br />
has produced a fruity wine that has only the lightest<br />
tannins. It is much more to do with red cherries, red<br />
currants and crisp acidity. The wine is ready to drink.<br />
Quintessential Wines. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $20<br />
86<br />
Henry Fessy 2015 Brouilly. Produced from<br />
Henry Fessy’s own cru vineyards, the wine<br />
is fruity and very accessible to drink young. Generous<br />
berry fruits and soft tannins make this an<br />
attractive wine. The aftertaste brings in light acidity.<br />
Drink now. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $20<br />
86<br />
Jean Loron 2015 Château de Bellevue<br />
(Brouilly). The wine comes from vineyards<br />
surrounding a stylish 19th-century chateau. With<br />
its bright red-berry fruit, the wine is crisp and only<br />
lightly structured. It is a cru wine to drink soon to<br />
appreciate its fruitiness. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5%<br />
Price: $NA<br />
85<br />
Georges Duboeuf 2015 Flower Label<br />
(Brouilly). The wine is soft and fruity. Red<br />
berry and cherry flavors have a hint of banana as<br />
well as the layers of crisp acidity. Drink this fresh<br />
wine now. Quintessential Wines. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $20<br />
93<br />
CÔTE DE BROUILLY<br />
Domaine Baron de l’Ecluse 2015 Les Garances<br />
(Côte de Brouilly). From a parcel on this<br />
12-acre estate, the wine is structured and rich. It<br />
has layers of firm tannins under the black fruits.<br />
Acidity and a crisp mineral texture mix with the<br />
solid structure and concentration. The aftertaste<br />
shows the generous future of this fine cru wine.<br />
Drink from 2018. Vineyard Road. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $29<br />
91<br />
Domaine Baron de l’Ecluse 2015 Vieilles Vignes<br />
(Côte de Brouilly). This is an ageworthy wine<br />
from 60-year-old vines. There is a fine structure<br />
that offers rich tannins and equally rich black plum<br />
fruits. It is worth keeping this finely structured cru<br />
wine to allow its tannins to integrate and soften.<br />
Drink from 2018. Vineyard Road. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $25<br />
90<br />
Stéphane Aviron 2014 Vieilles Vignes (Côte<br />
de Brouilly). Old vines, at least 40-yearsold,<br />
are behind this ripely structured wine. It was<br />
wood aged to give the extra richness this producer<br />
looks for. With concentration and tannins, this cru<br />
will age. Drink from 2018. Frederick Wildman &<br />
Sons, Ltd. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $19<br />
88<br />
Trenel Fils 2015 Côte de Brouilly. With its<br />
hint of acidity along with the textured fruit,<br />
this is a fruity wine that is balanced between richness<br />
and crispness. It has a light tannic structure<br />
that gives the wine its shape and ability to age for a<br />
few more months before drinking. Drink from mid-<br />
2017. Terlato Wines International. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />
87<br />
Domaine Baron de l’Ecluse 2015 L’Ecluse<br />
(Côte de Brouilly). This is an early drinking<br />
style of wine. It is warm and ripe with attractive soft<br />
tannins and plenty of red fruits and balancing acidity.<br />
The wine will just need to calm its bubbly fruitiness<br />
and will be ready to drink during late 2017.<br />
Vineyard Road. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $22<br />
87<br />
Georges Duboeuf 2015 Domaine Du Riaz<br />
(Côte de Brouilly). The cru wine is soft, full<br />
of cherry fruits and with a light touch of tannin.<br />
With its fruit, it is open and generous with a crisp<br />
aftertaste. Drink now. Quintessential Wines. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $20<br />
86<br />
Ferraud et Fils 2015 Domaine Rolland (Côte<br />
de Brouilly). This is an open light wine. It<br />
has some attractive tannins as well as red-berry<br />
fruits. With its structure, it will age for several<br />
more months to give a fuller wine—hopefully with<br />
the richness that is missing at the moment. Drink<br />
from late 2017. The Wine Merchant. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5%<br />
Price: $NA<br />
86<br />
Georges Duboeuf 2015 Flower Label (Côte de<br />
Brouilly). Cool and crisp with red-currant<br />
fruits, this is a fruity wine that also has layers of<br />
acidity. It has a tight mineral texture that balances<br />
the fruit. Drink now. Quintessential Wines. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $20<br />
85<br />
Henry Fessy 2015 Côte de Brouilly. The wine<br />
is tight with acidity and red-currant fruits.<br />
It has structure and tannins as well as the fruitiness.<br />
That means the cru needs to age a few months,<br />
so drink from mid-2017. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $18<br />
94<br />
RHÔNE VALLEY<br />
CÔTE RÔTIE<br />
E. Guigal 2011 Château d’Ampuis (Côte<br />
Rôtie). The essence of the appellation<br />
smokes out from the glass, offering hints of cracked<br />
pepper, bacon, clove and leather. It’s reasonably<br />
full-bodied for Côte Rôtie, with feral, smokedmeat<br />
flavors, ample spice and plenty of the concentrated<br />
plummy fruit. Tannins are silky, making<br />
this approachable now, but likely capable of aging<br />
74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017