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BUYINGGUIDE<br />

88<br />

Château de la Terrière 2015 Brouilly. From<br />

an estate enveloping a magnificent medieval<br />

castle, this is a lightly structured cru wine with red<br />

cherry and berry flavors. It has a backdrop of tannins<br />

and acidity that give it structure. The wine is ripe<br />

and fruity at the end and ready to drink. Imperial<br />

Wine & Spirits. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13%<br />

Price: $NA<br />

88<br />

Georges Duboeuf 2015 Domaine de Combiaty<br />

(Brouilly). The wine is produced from a<br />

15-acre parcel of 60-year-old vines. With concentration<br />

as well as juicy acidity, the wine is structured<br />

and needing to age for a few months. Red currant<br />

and berry fruits are shot through with a mineral<br />

aftertaste. Drink from 2018. Quintessential Wines.<br />

—R.V.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $20<br />

88<br />

Joseph Drouhin 2015 Hospices de Belleville<br />

(Brouilly). This is Drouhan’s second vintage<br />

of handling the vines, wines and marketing in partnership<br />

with the Hospices de Belleville charity. This<br />

open generous wine is packed with ripe red fruit and<br />

given shape by light tannins. There is a fresh crisp<br />

aftertaste that gives the wine a great lift. Dreyfus,<br />

Ashby & Co. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13%<br />

Price: $NA<br />

87<br />

Georges Duboeuf 2015 Château de Nervers<br />

(Brouilly). This grand estate was once a<br />

hunting ground for an even grander nearby chateau.<br />

The cru wine that’s now produced here is crisp and<br />

fruity, streaked through with acidity and red currants.<br />

It has a touch of tannin as well as minerality.<br />

Drink from late 2017. Quintessential Wines. —R.V.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $20<br />

87<br />

Jean-Paul Brun 2015 Pisse Vieille (Brouilly).<br />

This is a ripe, soft and rich cru wine. With<br />

its attractive cherries and gentle tannic structure, it<br />

is fruity and easy. The acidity that comes through at<br />

the end gives the wine a crisp aftertaste. Drink now.<br />

Louis/Dressner Selections. —R.V.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $27<br />

87<br />

Pardon et Fils 2015 Les Quartelets (Brouilly).<br />

Produced from cru vines at the base of Mount<br />

Brouilly, the wine has structure as well as ripe blackplum<br />

fruits. It is generous and its fruit is well balanced<br />

by acidity and solid tannins. The wines is<br />

ready to drink. Lionstone International. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $23<br />

86<br />

Château de Corcelles 2015 Brouilly. In its<br />

traditional Beaujolais bottle, like the onepint<br />

pot that was served in local restaurants, this<br />

is a soft and fruity wine. It has classic red-cherry<br />

fruits and light tannins. The aftertaste is juicy with<br />

just a hint of banana. Seaview Imports. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $20<br />

86<br />

Château des Tours 2015 Brouilly. Planted<br />

around a 12th-century fortress, the vines of<br />

this estate have given a crisp wine with red-berry<br />

fruit. Along with its fruit, the wine has fine bright<br />

acidity and a core of dryer tannins. Like most cru<br />

wines from Beaujolais’s biggest appellation, it is<br />

ready to drink now. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $20<br />

86<br />

Georges Duboeuf 2015 Domaine de la Martingale<br />

(Brouilly). This nine-acre property<br />

has produced a fruity wine that has only the lightest<br />

tannins. It is much more to do with red cherries, red<br />

currants and crisp acidity. The wine is ready to drink.<br />

Quintessential Wines. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $20<br />

86<br />

Henry Fessy 2015 Brouilly. Produced from<br />

Henry Fessy’s own cru vineyards, the wine<br />

is fruity and very accessible to drink young. Generous<br />

berry fruits and soft tannins make this an<br />

attractive wine. The aftertaste brings in light acidity.<br />

Drink now. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $20<br />

86<br />

Jean Loron 2015 Château de Bellevue<br />

(Brouilly). The wine comes from vineyards<br />

surrounding a stylish 19th-century chateau. With<br />

its bright red-berry fruit, the wine is crisp and only<br />

lightly structured. It is a cru wine to drink soon to<br />

appreciate its fruitiness. —R.V.<br />

abv: 12.5%<br />

Price: $NA<br />

85<br />

Georges Duboeuf 2015 Flower Label<br />

(Brouilly). The wine is soft and fruity. Red<br />

berry and cherry flavors have a hint of banana as<br />

well as the layers of crisp acidity. Drink this fresh<br />

wine now. Quintessential Wines. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $20<br />

93<br />

CÔTE DE BROUILLY<br />

Domaine Baron de l’Ecluse 2015 Les Garances<br />

(Côte de Brouilly). From a parcel on this<br />

12-acre estate, the wine is structured and rich. It<br />

has layers of firm tannins under the black fruits.<br />

Acidity and a crisp mineral texture mix with the<br />

solid structure and concentration. The aftertaste<br />

shows the generous future of this fine cru wine.<br />

Drink from 2018. Vineyard Road. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $29<br />

91<br />

Domaine Baron de l’Ecluse 2015 Vieilles Vignes<br />

(Côte de Brouilly). This is an ageworthy wine<br />

from 60-year-old vines. There is a fine structure<br />

that offers rich tannins and equally rich black plum<br />

fruits. It is worth keeping this finely structured cru<br />

wine to allow its tannins to integrate and soften.<br />

Drink from 2018. Vineyard Road. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $25<br />

90<br />

Stéphane Aviron 2014 Vieilles Vignes (Côte<br />

de Brouilly). Old vines, at least 40-yearsold,<br />

are behind this ripely structured wine. It was<br />

wood aged to give the extra richness this producer<br />

looks for. With concentration and tannins, this cru<br />

will age. Drink from 2018. Frederick Wildman &<br />

Sons, Ltd. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $19<br />

88<br />

Trenel Fils 2015 Côte de Brouilly. With its<br />

hint of acidity along with the textured fruit,<br />

this is a fruity wine that is balanced between richness<br />

and crispness. It has a light tannic structure<br />

that gives the wine its shape and ability to age for a<br />

few more months before drinking. Drink from mid-<br />

2017. Terlato Wines International. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />

87<br />

Domaine Baron de l’Ecluse 2015 L’Ecluse<br />

(Côte de Brouilly). This is an early drinking<br />

style of wine. It is warm and ripe with attractive soft<br />

tannins and plenty of red fruits and balancing acidity.<br />

The wine will just need to calm its bubbly fruitiness<br />

and will be ready to drink during late 2017.<br />

Vineyard Road. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $22<br />

87<br />

Georges Duboeuf 2015 Domaine Du Riaz<br />

(Côte de Brouilly). The cru wine is soft, full<br />

of cherry fruits and with a light touch of tannin.<br />

With its fruit, it is open and generous with a crisp<br />

aftertaste. Drink now. Quintessential Wines. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $20<br />

86<br />

Ferraud et Fils 2015 Domaine Rolland (Côte<br />

de Brouilly). This is an open light wine. It<br />

has some attractive tannins as well as red-berry<br />

fruits. With its structure, it will age for several<br />

more months to give a fuller wine—hopefully with<br />

the richness that is missing at the moment. Drink<br />

from late 2017. The Wine Merchant. —R.V.<br />

abv: 12.5%<br />

Price: $NA<br />

86<br />

Georges Duboeuf 2015 Flower Label (Côte de<br />

Brouilly). Cool and crisp with red-currant<br />

fruits, this is a fruity wine that also has layers of<br />

acidity. It has a tight mineral texture that balances<br />

the fruit. Drink now. Quintessential Wines. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $20<br />

85<br />

Henry Fessy 2015 Côte de Brouilly. The wine<br />

is tight with acidity and red-currant fruits.<br />

It has structure and tannins as well as the fruitiness.<br />

That means the cru needs to age a few months,<br />

so drink from mid-2017. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $18<br />

94<br />

RHÔNE VALLEY<br />

CÔTE RÔTIE<br />

E. Guigal 2011 Château d’Ampuis (Côte<br />

Rôtie). The essence of the appellation<br />

smokes out from the glass, offering hints of cracked<br />

pepper, bacon, clove and leather. It’s reasonably<br />

full-bodied for Côte Rôtie, with feral, smokedmeat<br />

flavors, ample spice and plenty of the concentrated<br />

plummy fruit. Tannins are silky, making<br />

this approachable now, but likely capable of aging<br />

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017

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