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terness and wheaty flavors on a dull finish. Terlato
Wines International. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $14
83
Santa Rita 2015 120 Chardonnay (Central
Valley). Gritty white-fruit aromas show a
note of vanilla. This tastes of bland passion fruit,
with a weedy note thrown in. On the finish, this
doesn’t give much at all. Palm Bay International.
—M.S.
abv: 13.9% Price: $8
83
Viña Tabalí 2015 Talinay Chardonnay (Limarí
Valley). This limestone-reared wine aspires
to be a Chardonnay leader in Chile, but so far its
track record lags behind its desires. This version
smells minerally like a multivitamin, but not fruity.
A blocky palate is oily in texture, while this tastes
briny and of sour citrus and stone fruits. A savory
finish tastes oaky and muddled. Biagio Cru & Estate
Wines, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $30
85
PEDRO XIMÉNEZ
Falernia 2015 Reserva Pedro Ximénez (Elqui
Valley). Aromas of oily petrol and stone
fruits lead to a round palate. This offers mild papaya
and melony flavors in front of a leesy-tasting finish
that’s solid in feel. Empson USA Ltd. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $9
85
Mayu 2015 Pedro Ximénez (Elqui Valley).
Aromas of white flowers are light yet clean.
This feels basic, while the flavors are greener and
more pyrazinic than the nose indicates, especially
on the finish, which tastes of bell pepper and white
fruits. Vine Connections. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $15
84
Cucao 2014 Reserva Pedro Ximénez (Elqui
Valley). Prickly foxy aromas are mildly pyrazinic.
While this Pedro Ximénez feels plump and
mostly healthy, it’s short and simple in terms of
flavors, with a note of briny citrus prior to a lowintensity
finish. Vintner Select. —M.S.
abv: 12% Price: $12
87
WHITE BLENDS
Oveja Negra 2015 Reserva Estate Bottled
Chardonnay- Viognier (Maule Valley). For full
review see page 22. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5% Price: $11
85
Estampa 2015 Estate Viognier-Chardonnay
(Colchagua Valley). Basic white-fruit aromas
are pleasant and uncomplicated. A solid,pithy
mouthfeel and flavors of peach, green banana and
green herbs conclude with a detectable note of
grape skins and citrus pith. This is 85% Viognier
and 15% Chardonnay. American Estates Wines, Inc.
—M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $16
85
Junta 2014 Reserve Momentos Viogner Sauvignon
Blanc (Central Valley). Oily aromas
of petrol are almost akin to certain Rieslings. This
Viognier-Sauvignon Blanc mix feels round and
mildly citrusy. Bready wheaty flavors of melon and
papaya suggest that it’s losing sizzle, so drink now.
Apollo Fine Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $12
83
Oveja Negra 2015 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc-
Carmenère (Maule Valley). Grapefruit and
passion fruit aromas are muddled and not bright.
This blend of Sauvignon Blanc and the juice of Carmenère
feels wide but amorphous. Pink grapefruit
and generic tang make for a simple but unexciting
flavor profile. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.S.
abv: 12.5% Price: $11
82
François Lurton 2015 Hacienda Araucano Clos
de Lolol (Lolol Valley). This yellow-tinted
blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay smells
more like freshly waxed floorboards and wood resin
than fruit. In the mouth, this is resiny and plump,
with mild acidity. A weird set of woody, waxy flavors
falls flat on the finish. Seaview Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $20
84
SPARKLING WINES
Echeverria NV Nina Brut (Curicó Valley). This
pale brut smells neutral except for notes of
lemon-lime and matchstick. On first take, this feels
zesty and fresh, with flavor notes of sugar-free lime
and tangerine. On the finish, however, things turn
bland and bready as the freshness falls away. Ararat
Import/Export Co. LLC. —M.S.
abv: NA Price: $13
84
Valdivieso NV Brut Rosé (Chile). More red
than pink in color, this smells of berry jam
and grass, which is alarming but not outright worrisome.
Round on the palate, with low acidity, this
tastes candied, while the finish fades away in sweet
harmless fashion. Wine Bridge Imports. —M.S.
abv: 12% Price: $12
82
Apaltagua NV Extra Brut Costero (San
Antonio). Grassy aromas include a note of
crushed vitamin. This is basic at best, lacking at
worst. There’s not much to the palate, while salty
grassy grapefruit flavors fail to stir excitement. An
unfriendly note of onion appears on a tart green finish.
Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
abv: 12.5% Price: $19
81
Valdivieso NV Brut (Chile). This tan-colored
brut is outright oxidized and bready from
front to tail. A foamy full palate is awkward, while
this tastes yeasty and stale, as oxidized wines often
do. Wine Bridge Imports. —M.S.
abv: 12% Price: $12
80
Loma Larga 2011 Brut Nature Limited Edition
Cabernet Franc (Casablanca Valley).
Other than a strange note of mustard, there’s little
to say about the nose of this brut nature Cab Franc.
It tastes of sauerkraut and mustard, while the finish
tastes pickled, with an infusion of vinegar. Winery
Direct. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $30
93
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Cono Sur 2013 20 Barrels Cabernet Sauvignon
(Maipo Valley). Dense, baked and
mulled blackberry and cassis aromas include bold
but classy oak notes. This feels seamless except for
raring tough tannins, while flavors of toast, graphite
and spiced blackberry finish smooth and chewy,
with a sense of lushness despite lasting residual
tannins. Drink through 2025. Vineyard Brands.
Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $35
93
Santa Rita 2012 Casa Real Estate Bottled Old
Vines Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley).
For full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.1% Price: $85
92
Concha y Toro 2013 Don Melchor Puente Alto
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Puente Alto).
Initially this smells foxy, with jumpy untamed berry
and plum notes racing across the nose. After the aromas
come around, this is hard and choppy on the
palate, while herbal black-plum and carob flavors
finish more lushly than before, but still fairly tannic.
Drink through 2023. Excelsior Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $120
92
Koyle 2013 Royale Los Lingues Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). For full
review see page 11. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.5% Price: $26
92
Ventisquero 2012 Enclave Cabernet Sauvignon
(Maipo Valley). Earthy aromas include
herbal notes, a hint of tomato sauce, asphalt and
dusty berry fruits. This has a raw tannic exterior
but is softer in the middle. Flavors of saucy, herbal
plum and blackberry come with notes of tobacco
and olive, while this is drawing and gritty on the
finish, with a roasted quality. Drink through 2024.
San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $75
91
Lapostolle 2013 Cuvée Alexandre Apalta Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley).
Dark spice, rubber, tree bark and herbal black-fruit
aromas are congruent. This big tough tannic Cabernet
is layered but hard as nails. Flavors of black
fruits, chocolate, fig and dark spices finish with
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