2jX32GW

admirable freshness, focus and energy. Bird Rock
Imports. —J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $84
91
Ogier 2013 La Combe de Malleval (Condrieu).
This is a rich, unctuous, yet refreshing example
of Condrieu. Apricot and melon notes pick up
hints of honey, then end with a pop of wood spice
and a balanced tannic feel. Drink now. Robert
Kacher Selections. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $95
91
Tardieu-Laurent 2014 Condrieu. Full-bodied,
concentrated and richly textured, this is a
succulent wine with refreshingly balanced oak.
A floral note on the nose gives way to apricot and
ginger-like spice, then finishes with a flourish of
mouthwatering acidity. Drink now. Wilson Daniels
Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $80
90
E. Guigal 2014 Condrieu. By the sheer size of
its production and ubiquity of distribution,
Guigal’s bottling has become the de facto standard
of the appellation. The 2014 is full-bodied and silky
in texture, with gorgeous gingery-peppery spice and
plenty of apricot-like fruit. Drink it over the rest of
2017. Vintus LLC. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $65
90
Jean-Luc Colombo 2013 Amour de Dieu
(Condrieu). This wine seems broad across
the palate, but not quite as deep as some Condrieus.
The fruit is understated, resembling gently toasted
marshmallow and maybe a touch of baked pineapple,
rather than flamboyant apricot and spice. Plan
on serving it with fish or chicken rather than something
rich or extravagant. Palm Bay International.
—J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $90
89
Maison Nicolas Perrin 2014 Condrieu. This
wine is pretty retrained on the nose for
Condrieu, but still offers aromas of spring blossoms
and white pepper. Fruit takes hold on the palate,
suggesting apricot, peach and pineapple. Those
flavors continue through the finish, which is silky
in texture but only medium in length. Vineyard
Brands. —J.C.
abv: 13% Price: $70
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC
94
Tardieu-Laurent 2014 Vieilles Vignes (Châteauneuf-du-Pape).
Full-bodied, rich and
unctuous, this is an exotic, flamboyant white Châteauneuf-du-Pape
for drinking over the next year.
Grilled pineapple is drizzled with caramel and cinnamon,
wrapping up long and lush. Wilson Daniels
Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $66
92
Domaine de Nalys 2014 Blanc (Châteauneufdu-Pape).
This blend—mainly Grenche
Blanc and Roussanne—is fairly neutral on the nose,
but weighty and rich on the palate, where it delivers
succulent notes of pineapple, perked by a sprinkling
of white pepper. That peppery spice picks up
in intensity on the finish, imparting vibrancy and
length. Drink now. Baron Francois Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $40
91
Famille Perrin 2014 Les Sinards (Châteauneufdu-Pape).
This is refreshingly bright for a
white Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Pineapple and bergamot
notes mark the palate, while the finish is tight,
citrusy and even a bit chalky in texture. Drink now–
2020. Vineyard Brands. —J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $38
90
Domaine de Nalys 2014 Eicelènci (Châteauneuf-du-Pape).
This contains a higher
proportion of Roussanne than Nalys’s regular white
cuvée, and more barrel influence as well. Toast
accents pineapple, melon and honey flavors, finishing
clean and pleasant. Baron Francois Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $60
89
Olivier Ravoire 2014 Blanc (Châteauneufdu-Pape).
Full-bodied, broad and verging
on fat, this is a corpulent white for immediate consumption.
Toasted marshmallows and baking spices
accent honeydew melon flavors, ending warm and
soft. Wine Warehouse Imports. —J.C.
abv: 13% Price: $49
95
TUSCANY
CHIANTI CLASSICO
San Felice 2013 Il Grigio Gran Selezione (Chianti
Classico). For full review see page 3.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.5% Price: $55
94
Fontodi 2013 Vigna del Sorbo Gran Selezione
(Chianti Classico). Initially closed, this
elegant vibrant red slowly reveals alluring aromas
of mature black-skinned fruit, French oak, violet
and a whiff of new leather. The full-bodied polished
palate delivers ripe black cherry, chopped mint,
star anise and pipe tobacco alongside a backbone
of fresh acidity and velvety tannins. It’s still young
and will be even better after a few more years in the
cellar. Drink 2020–2033. Vinifera Imports. Cellar
Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $80
93
Casa al Vento 2013 Foho Riserva (Chianti
Classico). Elegantly structured, this opens
with enticing scents of red berry, blue flower and a
whiff of tilled soil. The vibrant palate is loaded with
finesse, offering crunchy red cherry, strawberry, star
anise and a hint of mineral alongside silky tannins
and bright acidity. Drink through 2013. Votto Vines
Importing. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $40
92
Castelli del Grevepesa 2012 Panzano Gran
Selezione (Chianti Classico). Made entirely
with Sangiovese, this linear red opens with inviting
aromas of pressed violet, iris, dark-skinned berry
and a whiff of cake spice. The taut elegant palate
offers succulent wild cherry, cranberry, white pepper
and chopped herb set against firm refined tannins
and fresh acidity. Drink 2018–2023. Votto
Vines Importing. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $50
92
Castello di Bossi 2012 Berardo Riserva (Chianti
Classico). Aromas of chopped mint,
underbrush, spiced berry, toast and a whiff of iris
take shape on this savory, approachable wine. Made
entirely with Sangiovese, the ripe round palate
offers dried cherry, raspberry, truffle and licorice
framed in supple tannins. It finishes on a savory,
almost salty note. Drink through 2020. Leonardo
LoCascio Selections–The Winebow Group. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $30
91
Rocca di Castagnoli 2012 Poggio a’ Frati Riserva
(Chianti Classico). New leather, blue flower,
wild berry and a whiff of oak-driven spice lead the
nose. The savory chewy palate offers mature black
cherry, raspberry, star anise, clove and menthol
while lithe tannins provide polished support. Drink
through 2019. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $32
90
Casa al Vento 2014 Aria (Chianti Classico).
Fragrant and refined, this vibrant red
boasts enticing scents of violet, wild berry, tilled
soil and a whiff of new leather. The bright palate
delivers juicy red cherry, crushed raspberry and a
hint of dark baking spice alongside zesty acidity and
polished tannins. Votto Vines Importing. Editors’
Choice. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $30
89
Renieri 2013 Chianti Classico. Aromas suggesting
toasted oak, sunbaked earth and a
whiff of pressed violet lead the nose. The smooth,
easygoing palate offers black raspberry, grilled herb
and a hint of star anise alongside polished tannins
and fresh acidity. Drink through 2018. Michelangelo
Selections. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $20
89
Rocca delle Macìe 2013 Famiglia Zingarelli
Riserva (Chianti Classico). This linear red
has attractive aromas of fragrant blue flower, red
berry and chopped herb. The taut medium-bodied
palate offers dried black cherry, red currant, white
pepper and a note of dried sage alongside finegrained
tannins and bright acidity. Palm Bay International.
—K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $26
89
Triacca 2012 La Madonnina Gran Selezione
(Chianti Classico). Initially shy, the nose
eventually reveals subdued aromas of dark berry,
sunbaked earth and blue flower. The medium-bodied
palate offers mature black cherry, anise and a hint
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