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RED BLENDS
Heinrich 2011 terra o. (Burgenland). A roasted
rich note of espresso and grilled pumpkin
appears first. The palate is still dense with rich
dark-berry fruit. This is full bodied but pervaded by
freshness. The finely woven tannin structure is still
very firm, very grippy, even though the fruit underneath
it begins to show. This is now five years old
and has barely begun its trajectory. Lovely now if
you like full-bodied wines. Drink now through 2030.
Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K.
abv: 14% Price: $75
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Gunter Triebaumer 2014 Blaufränkisch-Cabernet
(Burgenland). A touch of roasted coffee
clings to the nose, otherwise it wants to give little
away. The taut palate barely shows the dark fruit, so
tight is it with a fine-grained tannin structure. This
is dense and sumptuous, but has ample freshness as
a counterweight. It still needs to mellow and show
its fruit. Drink 2018–2025. Magellan Wine Imports.
—A.K.
abv: 14% Price: $20
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Netzl 2014 Anna-Christina (Carnuntum). The
full-on blueberry fruit of Zweigelt is very
evident on this peppery, vibrant and fresh-faced
blend. There is structure from Cabernet that gives a
firm backbone, but the plummy fleshiness of Merlot
and the juiciness of crushed blueberry, tinged with
cinnamon and white pepper brings oodles of joy.
This is concentrated but totally approachable and
chock–full of fruit. KWSelection.com. —A.K.
abv: 14% Price: $65
92
Hillinger 2014 Hillside (Burgenland). The
nose is still closed: There is just a hint
of dark fruit. The palate lightens with expressive
and finely drawn fruit. There is pepper-tinged red
cherry, fine notes of cranberry and red currant. The
fruit here is beautiful and taut; there is freshness,
tension and real elegance. Tannins are supple and
fine, and the body is unforced and fresh. KWSelection.com.
—A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $29
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Netzl 2014 Edles Tal (Carnuntum). There is
a dark brooding smell of black cherry and
dark fruit of the forest, all held together with the
chocolate tinge of smoky oak. The body is more fresh
faced and lets the aromatic expressive fruit speak: It
is juicy and vibrant, with a lovely pepperiness. The
tannins are velvety and dense, but there is mellow
flow and ample aromatic freshness. This strikes a
good balance between sumptuous winemaking and
pure fruit. KWSelection.com. —A.K.
abv: 14% Price: $39
closed, yet there is the suspicion of fine fruit. The
grippy palate brims with peppery dark-plum fruit
and very fine distinct tannins that give this a taut,
rigid frame that still needs to relax. This is unusual in
so far that it is a Cabernet Franc from Austria, grown
on slate. It works well: The tannic structure and fruit
are fully expressed. This needs bottle age and will
blossom into a far more relaxed and fruitful wine.
Drink 2020–2030. Magellan Wine Imports. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $47
92
R&A Pfaffl 2013 Burggarten Reserve Zweigelt
(Niederösterreich). For full review see
page 12.
abv: 14% Price: $40
91
Artner 2014 Steinacker Reserve Zweigelt (Carnuntum).
The sonorous smoke and cinnamon-tinged
tone of oak surrounds this wine. On the
palate, there is a sumptuousness that marries well
with the full red-cherry fruit of Zweigelt. Beautifully
edged with pepper, this is fresh but full bodied.
Crunchy now but it will relax and mellow with time.
Drink 2018–2022. Vintage Epicure. —A.K.
abv: 14% Price: $45
92
OTHER RED WINES
Gunter Triebaumer 2014 Gillesberg Cabernet
Franc (Burgenland). The nose is tightly
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