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BUYINGGUIDE<br />

93<br />

Theopolis 2013 Estate Grown Petite Sirah<br />

(Yorkville Highlands). For full review see<br />

page 8. Cellar Selection.<br />

abv: 14.8% Price: $38<br />

92<br />

Mauritson 2013 Madrone Spring Vineyard<br />

Petite Sirah (Rockpile). This wine is 100%<br />

varietal, aged entirely in French oak. Shy at first, it<br />

allows room for an earthy element of compost and is<br />

dark and brooding all around, with sizable, tamed,<br />

chalky tannin. Leather, black pepper, licorice and<br />

cinnamon all make an appearance, adding to the<br />

wine’s complexity and likability. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.75% Price: $41<br />

92<br />

Peachy Canyon 2014 Petite Sirah (Paso<br />

Robles). For full review see page 11.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $32<br />

92<br />

Stags’ Leap Winery 2013 Ne Cede Malis<br />

Estate Grown Petite Sirah (Stags Leap District).<br />

For full review see page 12.<br />

abv: 14.1% Price: $115<br />

91<br />

Jaxon Keys 2013 Estate Allie Key’s Vineyard<br />

Petite Sirah (Mendocino). Mouthfilling,<br />

mouthcoating and full bodied, this dark-colored<br />

wine blends ripe but not sweet blackberry and<br />

black-cherry flavors with dark chocolate and baking-spice<br />

nuances for a complex and delicious taste<br />

profile. It’s rich enough in flavor and viscous enough<br />

in texture that the abundant tannins seem to be<br />

absorbed, and the mouthfeel is soothing. Best from<br />

2018–2023. Cellar Selection. —J.G.<br />

abv: 14.7% Price: $40<br />

91<br />

Stags’ Leap Winery 2013 Petite Sirah (Napa<br />

Valley). For full review see page 15.<br />

abv: 14.1% Price: $45<br />

91<br />

Wolff 2014 Petite Sirah (Edna Valley). This is<br />

a fascinating show of what a cooler climate<br />

can do to this usually unctuous grape. Aromas of<br />

Mediterranean spices, olives, leather, fresh forest<br />

herbs, rose hips, dewy thyme, raw beef, black pepper<br />

and soy lead into a sip full of gamy funk. Think<br />

rare lamb and venison, set against tart elderberry<br />

and pine sap, that coat the mouth with sticky tannins.<br />

Editors’ Choice. —M.K.<br />

abv: 13.9% Price: $28<br />

90<br />

Jacob Franklin 2012 Hayne Vineyard Petite<br />

Sirah (Napa Valley). Aged in all-new American<br />

oak, this vineyard-designate is light bodied and<br />

restrained, a nice surprise for the variety. Soft, simple<br />

and bright, it shows a warmth of plum cake and<br />

Christmas spice, ending in a rainfall of black pepper.<br />

A nuanced, quiet wine, it should be enjoyed in its<br />

youth. —V.B.<br />

abv: 13.6% Price: $75<br />

90<br />

Klinker Brick 2014 Petite Sirah (Lodi). This<br />

wine has all the deep, dark color and firm<br />

tannins that are expected, but it pleasantly sweetens<br />

the blackberry flavors ever so slightly and<br />

smooths the edges in terms of texture, for a big wine<br />

that’s also quite friendly. —J.G.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $25<br />

95<br />

SYRAH<br />

Cordant 2014 Presqu’ile Vineyard Syrah<br />

(Santa Maria Valley). For full review see<br />

page 3.<br />

abv: 14.3% Price: $42<br />

95<br />

Stolpman 2014 Originals Syrah (Ballard Canyon).<br />

Very savory aromas of roasted lamb,<br />

bacon fat, teriyaki and crushed pepper meet with<br />

light blueberry and a touch of mint on the nose of<br />

this delicious, well-rounded bottling by winemaker<br />

Sashi Moorman from the vineyard’s oldest blocks.<br />

The palate kicks off with a zesty acidity, then come<br />

waves of black pepper-crusted beef roast, oregano,<br />

bay leaf, dark plum fruit and lavender. The solid<br />

structure ensures cellar potential but it’s ready to<br />

drink today. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.<br />

abv: 14.1% Price: $42<br />

95<br />

Terre Rouge 2013 Sentinel Oak Vineyard Pyramid<br />

Block Syrah (Shenandoah Valley). This<br />

gorgeous, concentrated, mouthfilling wine is delicious<br />

to sip now but will certainly improve in the<br />

cellar for a decade or more. Tempting black cherry<br />

and boysenberry flavors seem to swell in the mouth,<br />

while light baking-spice and black-pepper accents<br />

weave in and out. Even on the finish it keeps surging<br />

with dark fruits and spices. Cellar Selection. —J.G.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $40<br />

94<br />

Alta Colina 2013 Toasted Slope Estate Syrah<br />

(Adelaida District). Roasted and raw beef,<br />

dried strawberry, crushed marjoram and salt-andpepper<br />

seasonings show on this Syrah. Extremely<br />

dark in the glass, it’s bolstered by 4% Grenache,<br />

4% Mourvèdre and 2% Viognier. Elderberry fruit<br />

kicks off the palate, following by pepper, coffee<br />

grinds, espresso beans and dark-chocolate sauce,<br />

surrounded by grippy tannins. —M.K.<br />

abv: 15.5% Price: $48<br />

94<br />

Baker & Brain 2014 Le Mistral Vineyard Syrah<br />

(Monterey County). The nose on this wine<br />

from the dynamic duo of Fresno State professor/<br />

winemaker Matt Brain and custom-crush manager/<br />

winemaker Josh Baker is well integrated, showing<br />

layers of dark berries, soy, dried violets, candied<br />

blueberry and a touch of caramel. It’s soft and plush<br />

on the palate, with touches of milk chocolate, candied<br />

grapes and licorice. —M.K.<br />

abv: 15.5% Price: $42<br />

94<br />

Golden Triangle 2013 Syrah (Paso Robles<br />

Willow Creek District). For full review see<br />

page 4.<br />

abv: 14.9% Price: $55<br />

94<br />

Hecho por Ruben 2012 Harrison Clarke Vineyard<br />

Syrah (Ballard Canyon). Ruben “The<br />

Grape Whisperer” Solorzano may need a new cellar-oriented<br />

nickname if he keeps turning out such<br />

excellent bottlings. This offers lots of white and<br />

black pepper on the nose alongside thyme, rosemary,<br />

black plum, licorice, black olive, roast beef<br />

and Mediterannean spice. The palate packs thyme,<br />

peppercorn, dried sage, black and green olive,<br />

espresso and green coffee beans atop underripe<br />

blackberry and strong elderberry flavors. —M.K.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $55<br />

94<br />

Jada Vineyard & Winery 2014 Jersey Girl<br />

Syrah (Paso Robles Willow Creek District).<br />

For full review see page 4.<br />

abv: 15.5% Price: $55<br />

94<br />

Stolpman 2014 Angeli Syrah (Ballard Canyon).<br />

As the Stolpman family’s top-of-theline<br />

bottling each vintage, this wine impresses on<br />

all fronts. Candied boysenberry, dried lilac, snapped<br />

dark chocolate and hints of dried mint show on<br />

the nose. The entry into the palate is refined and<br />

soft with juicy mulberry and elderberry fruit plus<br />

touches of thyme and forest floor. Firm but polished<br />

tannins and a decent dose of acidity ensure long<br />

drinkability. Drink now–2029. Cellar Selection.<br />

—M.K.<br />

abv: 14.1% Price: $68<br />

94<br />

Wedell Cellars 2012 Manchester Vineyard<br />

Syrah (Arroyo Grande Valley). There’s a lot<br />

to love in this bottling for those who enjoy coolerclimate<br />

Syrah. But the tons of cracked black pepper,<br />

asphalt and gamy funk meet with enough elderberry<br />

and lavender to appeal to others as well. The palate<br />

packs a wide array of flavors, from anise to lavender<br />

to cracked peppercorn, with savory tar, dried elderberry<br />

and even some elderflower showing as well.<br />

—M.K.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $70<br />

93<br />

Caliza 2013 Syrah (Paso Robles Willow Creek<br />

District). Dark in the glass, this wine by Carl<br />

Bowker offers fragrant vanilla, baked blueberry, a<br />

touch of pepper and coffee-cocoa foam on the rich<br />

and inviting nose. Hearty blueberry and blackberry<br />

fruit flavors are lifted by baking spice, bound to a<br />

tart, tannic, black-plum-skin-like structure. —M.K.<br />

abv: 15.7% Price: $62<br />

93<br />

Foxen 2014 Tinaquaic Vineyard Syrah (Santa<br />

Maria Valley). Violets, bacon fat and caramel<br />

sauce are drizzled across blueberry and olallieberry<br />

fruits on the nose of this bottling from Billy Wathen<br />

and Dick Dore. The palate is expertly integrated and<br />

deep with flavors of blackberry, pepper dust, tart<br />

black-plum skins, cocoa powder and roasted pork.<br />

It conveys classic Syrah flavors, done with grace.<br />

—M.K.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $48<br />

93<br />

Foxen 2014 Williamson-Dore Vineyard Syrah<br />

(Los Olivos District). Dark boysenberry,<br />

dried lilac and the slightest touch of tar show on<br />

the nose of this bottling, one of the first that Foxen<br />

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017

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