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BUYINGGUIDE<br />
93<br />
Theopolis 2013 Estate Grown Petite Sirah<br />
(Yorkville Highlands). For full review see<br />
page 8. Cellar Selection.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $38<br />
92<br />
Mauritson 2013 Madrone Spring Vineyard<br />
Petite Sirah (Rockpile). This wine is 100%<br />
varietal, aged entirely in French oak. Shy at first, it<br />
allows room for an earthy element of compost and is<br />
dark and brooding all around, with sizable, tamed,<br />
chalky tannin. Leather, black pepper, licorice and<br />
cinnamon all make an appearance, adding to the<br />
wine’s complexity and likability. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.75% Price: $41<br />
92<br />
Peachy Canyon 2014 Petite Sirah (Paso<br />
Robles). For full review see page 11.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $32<br />
92<br />
Stags’ Leap Winery 2013 Ne Cede Malis<br />
Estate Grown Petite Sirah (Stags Leap District).<br />
For full review see page 12.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $115<br />
91<br />
Jaxon Keys 2013 Estate Allie Key’s Vineyard<br />
Petite Sirah (Mendocino). Mouthfilling,<br />
mouthcoating and full bodied, this dark-colored<br />
wine blends ripe but not sweet blackberry and<br />
black-cherry flavors with dark chocolate and baking-spice<br />
nuances for a complex and delicious taste<br />
profile. It’s rich enough in flavor and viscous enough<br />
in texture that the abundant tannins seem to be<br />
absorbed, and the mouthfeel is soothing. Best from<br />
2018–2023. Cellar Selection. —J.G.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $40<br />
91<br />
Stags’ Leap Winery 2013 Petite Sirah (Napa<br />
Valley). For full review see page 15.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $45<br />
91<br />
Wolff 2014 Petite Sirah (Edna Valley). This is<br />
a fascinating show of what a cooler climate<br />
can do to this usually unctuous grape. Aromas of<br />
Mediterranean spices, olives, leather, fresh forest<br />
herbs, rose hips, dewy thyme, raw beef, black pepper<br />
and soy lead into a sip full of gamy funk. Think<br />
rare lamb and venison, set against tart elderberry<br />
and pine sap, that coat the mouth with sticky tannins.<br />
Editors’ Choice. —M.K.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $28<br />
90<br />
Jacob Franklin 2012 Hayne Vineyard Petite<br />
Sirah (Napa Valley). Aged in all-new American<br />
oak, this vineyard-designate is light bodied and<br />
restrained, a nice surprise for the variety. Soft, simple<br />
and bright, it shows a warmth of plum cake and<br />
Christmas spice, ending in a rainfall of black pepper.<br />
A nuanced, quiet wine, it should be enjoyed in its<br />
youth. —V.B.<br />
abv: 13.6% Price: $75<br />
90<br />
Klinker Brick 2014 Petite Sirah (Lodi). This<br />
wine has all the deep, dark color and firm<br />
tannins that are expected, but it pleasantly sweetens<br />
the blackberry flavors ever so slightly and<br />
smooths the edges in terms of texture, for a big wine<br />
that’s also quite friendly. —J.G.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $25<br />
95<br />
SYRAH<br />
Cordant 2014 Presqu’ile Vineyard Syrah<br />
(Santa Maria Valley). For full review see<br />
page 3.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $42<br />
95<br />
Stolpman 2014 Originals Syrah (Ballard Canyon).<br />
Very savory aromas of roasted lamb,<br />
bacon fat, teriyaki and crushed pepper meet with<br />
light blueberry and a touch of mint on the nose of<br />
this delicious, well-rounded bottling by winemaker<br />
Sashi Moorman from the vineyard’s oldest blocks.<br />
The palate kicks off with a zesty acidity, then come<br />
waves of black pepper-crusted beef roast, oregano,<br />
bay leaf, dark plum fruit and lavender. The solid<br />
structure ensures cellar potential but it’s ready to<br />
drink today. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $42<br />
95<br />
Terre Rouge 2013 Sentinel Oak Vineyard Pyramid<br />
Block Syrah (Shenandoah Valley). This<br />
gorgeous, concentrated, mouthfilling wine is delicious<br />
to sip now but will certainly improve in the<br />
cellar for a decade or more. Tempting black cherry<br />
and boysenberry flavors seem to swell in the mouth,<br />
while light baking-spice and black-pepper accents<br />
weave in and out. Even on the finish it keeps surging<br />
with dark fruits and spices. Cellar Selection. —J.G.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $40<br />
94<br />
Alta Colina 2013 Toasted Slope Estate Syrah<br />
(Adelaida District). Roasted and raw beef,<br />
dried strawberry, crushed marjoram and salt-andpepper<br />
seasonings show on this Syrah. Extremely<br />
dark in the glass, it’s bolstered by 4% Grenache,<br />
4% Mourvèdre and 2% Viognier. Elderberry fruit<br />
kicks off the palate, following by pepper, coffee<br />
grinds, espresso beans and dark-chocolate sauce,<br />
surrounded by grippy tannins. —M.K.<br />
abv: 15.5% Price: $48<br />
94<br />
Baker & Brain 2014 Le Mistral Vineyard Syrah<br />
(Monterey County). The nose on this wine<br />
from the dynamic duo of Fresno State professor/<br />
winemaker Matt Brain and custom-crush manager/<br />
winemaker Josh Baker is well integrated, showing<br />
layers of dark berries, soy, dried violets, candied<br />
blueberry and a touch of caramel. It’s soft and plush<br />
on the palate, with touches of milk chocolate, candied<br />
grapes and licorice. —M.K.<br />
abv: 15.5% Price: $42<br />
94<br />
Golden Triangle 2013 Syrah (Paso Robles<br />
Willow Creek District). For full review see<br />
page 4.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $55<br />
94<br />
Hecho por Ruben 2012 Harrison Clarke Vineyard<br />
Syrah (Ballard Canyon). Ruben “The<br />
Grape Whisperer” Solorzano may need a new cellar-oriented<br />
nickname if he keeps turning out such<br />
excellent bottlings. This offers lots of white and<br />
black pepper on the nose alongside thyme, rosemary,<br />
black plum, licorice, black olive, roast beef<br />
and Mediterannean spice. The palate packs thyme,<br />
peppercorn, dried sage, black and green olive,<br />
espresso and green coffee beans atop underripe<br />
blackberry and strong elderberry flavors. —M.K.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $55<br />
94<br />
Jada Vineyard & Winery 2014 Jersey Girl<br />
Syrah (Paso Robles Willow Creek District).<br />
For full review see page 4.<br />
abv: 15.5% Price: $55<br />
94<br />
Stolpman 2014 Angeli Syrah (Ballard Canyon).<br />
As the Stolpman family’s top-of-theline<br />
bottling each vintage, this wine impresses on<br />
all fronts. Candied boysenberry, dried lilac, snapped<br />
dark chocolate and hints of dried mint show on<br />
the nose. The entry into the palate is refined and<br />
soft with juicy mulberry and elderberry fruit plus<br />
touches of thyme and forest floor. Firm but polished<br />
tannins and a decent dose of acidity ensure long<br />
drinkability. Drink now–2029. Cellar Selection.<br />
—M.K.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $68<br />
94<br />
Wedell Cellars 2012 Manchester Vineyard<br />
Syrah (Arroyo Grande Valley). There’s a lot<br />
to love in this bottling for those who enjoy coolerclimate<br />
Syrah. But the tons of cracked black pepper,<br />
asphalt and gamy funk meet with enough elderberry<br />
and lavender to appeal to others as well. The palate<br />
packs a wide array of flavors, from anise to lavender<br />
to cracked peppercorn, with savory tar, dried elderberry<br />
and even some elderflower showing as well.<br />
—M.K.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $70<br />
93<br />
Caliza 2013 Syrah (Paso Robles Willow Creek<br />
District). Dark in the glass, this wine by Carl<br />
Bowker offers fragrant vanilla, baked blueberry, a<br />
touch of pepper and coffee-cocoa foam on the rich<br />
and inviting nose. Hearty blueberry and blackberry<br />
fruit flavors are lifted by baking spice, bound to a<br />
tart, tannic, black-plum-skin-like structure. —M.K.<br />
abv: 15.7% Price: $62<br />
93<br />
Foxen 2014 Tinaquaic Vineyard Syrah (Santa<br />
Maria Valley). Violets, bacon fat and caramel<br />
sauce are drizzled across blueberry and olallieberry<br />
fruits on the nose of this bottling from Billy Wathen<br />
and Dick Dore. The palate is expertly integrated and<br />
deep with flavors of blackberry, pepper dust, tart<br />
black-plum skins, cocoa powder and roasted pork.<br />
It conveys classic Syrah flavors, done with grace.<br />
—M.K.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $48<br />
93<br />
Foxen 2014 Williamson-Dore Vineyard Syrah<br />
(Los Olivos District). Dark boysenberry,<br />
dried lilac and the slightest touch of tar show on<br />
the nose of this bottling, one of the first that Foxen<br />
30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017