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84
Laissez Faire 2015 Red Table Wine (Idaho).
The aromas of tire rubber and reduction are
a challenge to get around. The palate offers sweet currant
flavors but can’t make up the difference. —S.S.
abv: 14.1% Price: $16
90
OTHER RED WINES
Telaya 2014 Mourvèdre (Snake River Valley).
The varietal is unmistakable, with generous
amounts of freshly ground black pepper along with
lemon twist, herb and raw meat. The medium-bodied
palate brings more of the same, with fruit and
savory flavors that provide intrigue. —S.S.
abv: 14% Price: $35
88
Huston 2013 Merlot (Snake River Valley).
Pleasing aromas of raspberry jam and spice
lead to soft plump raspberry and cranberry flavors.
It’s fruit forward and brings a lot of enjoyment.
—S.S.
abv: 14.2% Price: $27
87
Bitner 2012 Erletxe Tempranillo (Snake River
Valley). Brooding aromas of earth, tobacco,
spice and red fruit lead to plentiful savory tobacco
and mesquite flavors. It seems a bit dried out. —S.S.
abv: 13.2% Price: $27
87
Sawtooth 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Snake
River Valley). The aromas bring notes of
herb, sweet tobacco and ash. The plum flavors are
tart and full in feel, with the tannins giving a (quite)
chalky squeeze. —S.S.
abv: 14.2% Price: $16
87
Snake River 2012 Arena Valley Vineyard Cabernet
Franc (Snake River Valley). Aromas
of dried and fresh herbs, whole green pepper and
tobacco lead to tart savory cranberry and citrus flavors.
It trails toward the finish. —S.S.
abv: 13.6% Price: $20
87
Williamson Vineyard 2011 Reserve Petite
Sirah (Snake River Valley). The aromas of
tilled soil, white pepper, lemon grass and citrus provide
intrigue. The palate brings a big squeeze of dry
tannins along with tart acids. —S.S.
abv: NA Price: $35
87
Williamson Vineyard 2012 Sangiovese (Snake
River Valley). Aromas of herb, tobacco, tire
rubber and leather lead to soft-feeling citrus and
savory flavors. There are some interesting things
going on but the variety seems hard to find. —S.S.
abv: 14.4% Price: $18
86
3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2014 Single Vineyard
Sangiovese (Eagle Foothills). This wine
offers aromas of wild berry, flowers, barrel notes
and spice. The palate is lighter styled, backed by
chalky tannins. The variety seems somewhat hard
to find. —S.S.
abv: 14.2% Price: $30
85
Williamson Vineyard 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Snake River Valley). The vanilla, cocoa
and dark-fruit aromas show some volatility. The flavors
are sweet and ripe, not quite able to stay in balance.
—S.S.
abv: 15.1% Price: $30
89
NEW YORK
CHARDONNAY
Hound’s Tree 2015 Chardonnay (North Fork
of Long Island). Fresh and fragrant, this
luscious Chardonnay bursts with flavors of pink
grapefruit, lemon and apple. It’s ripe and yielding in
texture but pertly balanced in acidity, finishing on
a lingering bite of astringency. Drink now through
2020. —A.I.
abv: 13.4% Price: $24
89
One Woman 2015 Chardonnay (North Fork
of Long Island). Fresh white grapefruit and
peach flavors abound from nose to finish in this
elegantly balanced Chardonnay. It’s juicy and quaffable
with a rich, expansive mouthfeel, yet nuanced
by subtle hints of mineral and toast. Enjoy now
through 2020. —A.I.
abv: 12.8% Price: $28
88
Glenora 2015 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay
(Finger Lakes). Ripe red apple, lemon and
caramelized sugar scent this enticingly fragrant
Chardonnay. On the palate, fresh apple and citrus
flavors are backed by a rich slightly clingy backdrop
of vanilla cream. A fresh hit of lime and hints
of wood and spice mark a moderately long finish.
Drink now through 2019. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $16
88
Kontokosta 2014 Orient Chardonnay (North
Fork of Long Island). Buoyantly fragrant,
this voluptuous Chardonnay bursts of mango, guava
and berry aromas. The palate is a bit more subdued,
suggesting fresh apple and pear. Fruity, fresh and
uncomplicated, it’s balanced neatly by a flash of
acidity on the midpalate. Drink now through 2019.
—A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $22
88
Rooster Hill 2015 Chardonnay (Finger
Lakes). While the nose is intensely oaky,
wafting of dark toast, smoked nuts and spice, the
palate of this Chardonnay is surprisingly fresh with
crisp apple and pear flavors. It’s a rounded, voluptuous
wine that neatly balances the richness and
complexity of oak against fruit. Drink now through
2021. —A.I.
abv: 13.8% Price: $16
88
Standing Stone 2015 Chardonnay (Finger
Lakes). Judiciously balanced notes of toast,
spice and vanilla augment crisp red apple and lemon
tones in this brisk Chardonnay. Cutting minerality
on the midpalate lends an invigorating freshness
through the finish. Drink now through 2019. —A.I.
abv: 12.3% Price: $16
87
Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2014 Proprietor’s
Reserve Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Oak
tones of spice, smoke and toasted wood show prominently
on this Chardonnay, juxtaposed against
muted apple and pear flavors. Glimpses of pretty
white floral and citrus lend freshness to the palate,
amplified by zesty acidity and a sexy tinge of vanilla
on the finish. Of the two bottles received for sampling,
there was noticeable bottle variation with one
showing signs of premature maturation. Drink now
through 2019. —A.I.
abv: 12.5% Price: $17
87
Jamesport 2014 Estate Chardonnay (North
Fork of Long Island). Waxy citrus peels and
pressed apples waft on the nose of this Chardonnay.
Flavors of apple and pear cider are a bit muted,
but it’s elegantly composed, marked by brisk acidity
and a pleasantly bitter tone on the finish. Drink now
through 2020. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $22
87
Lamoreaux Landing 2014 Reserve Chardonnay
(Finger Lakes). Fresh lemon perfume
juxtaposes delicate toast and spice notes on this
briskly balanced yet full-bodied Chardonnay. It’s
not deeply penetrating, but crisp apple and pear
flavors brighten the palate. The finish lingers on a
silken vanilla tone. Drink now through 2021. —A.I.
abv: 12.9% Price: $25
87
Stony Lonesome 2015 Estate Reserve Chardonnay
(Finger Lakes). Intensely fruity,
almost tropical, on the nose, this juicy Chardonnay
is chock full of fresh pineapple, melon and mango
flavors. While not complex, it’s a fun, widely appealing
wine marked by bright acidity and luscious
mouthfeel. Enjoy now through 2019. —A.I.
abv: 12.7% Price: $16
87
Treleaven 2013 Silver Lining Chardonnay
(Finger Lakes). Dusty mineral tones mingle
amidst zesty lemon and apple in this particularly
light-bodied white. Zippy and brisk, it’s a lean but
properly concentrated Chardonnay that finishes
with vigor and vibe. Drink now through 2019. —A.I.
abv: 11.2% Price: $14
86
Wagner 2014 Reserve Chardonnay (Finger
Lakes). Lithe and lean, this Chardonnay
suggests a lighter-bodied, slighter expression. Zesty
acidity and tart lemon-lime flavors are refreshing
and thirst quenching on the palate though. The
finish eases into delicate notes of spice and toast.
Drink now through 2019. —A.I.
abv: 12.3% Price: $18
85
Diliberto 2015 Chardonnay (North Fork of
Long Island). Layers of wood and bramble
juxtapose flavors of pressed apple, pear and lemon
here. While its light-bodied style and brisk acidity
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