2jX32GW

BUYINGGUIDE
SPIRITS
Meet the new, complex Irish Whiskey
Traditionally, Irish whiskey has been
praised for its approachable nature: gentle,
fresh flavors, easy to mix into cocktails,
affordably priced.
But that’s no longer a given. The question
that popped up over and over during this
month’s tastings: When did Irish whiskey
become so complex, dark and intense?
Perhaps it’s the influence of
raucous American whiskeys and
moody Scotches. The bottles
of Irish now filling out shelves
include special cask finishes (not
just former Bourbon and Sherry
casks, but also Malaga, Bordeaux,
Madeira, even rum barrels) and
longer aging times (16, 18, 21 years and up).
Many of these are limited editions offered
with lofty price tags. For example, look to Midleton’s
Dair Ghaelach bottling ($270), a blend
of 15- to 22-year-old whiskeys aged in barrels
made of wood from one of 10 sustainably grown
and harvested trees (the tree number is listed
on the label). Noble endeavor or marketing gimmick?
Either way, it’s delicious.
96
Perhaps this change was inevitable. “The
Midleton Very Rare Irish Whiskey (Ireland;
Pernod Ricard USA, New York, NY). Complex,
robust, and hard to put down, this sipper offers big,
buttery, toasty flavor. Look for crème brûlée and
custard, caramel apple and brioche rounding into a
gently spiced finish. Limited production.
abv: 40% Price: $160
95
Barr an Uisce 1803 Single Malt Irish Whiskey
(Ireland; Niche Import Co., Cedar Knolls,
NJ). Balancing fruit, spice and oak, this 10-year-old
whiskey offers enticing orchard and stone-fruit aromas
warmed by a whiff of butterscotch. The palate
opens with zingy baking spice and winds into a long
exit with citrus peel and buttery brioche. A splash
of water tames the spicy heat, but still leaves plenty
of sprightly flavor.
abv: 46% Price: $80
95
Green Spot Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey (Ireland;
Pernod Ricard USA, New York, NY). The
perception that Irish whiskey is merely smooth
and accessible—now we think that is almost
insulting,” says Bernard Walsh, chairman of
the Irish Whiskey Association and founder of
Walsh Whiskey Distillery. “We want to rise
above that and show we are more complex.”
Mission accomplished.
When did Irish
whiskey become so
complex, dark and
intense?
Of course, plenty of light, grassy, fruity
Irish bottlings are still available
too. Knappogue Castle 12 Year
Old Single Malt or Kinahan’s
Blended surely would please traditional
palates; so would a fun
new bottling from Celtic rock
favorite The Pogues.
As the category continues
to evolve, Walsh recently traveled to Washington,
where he and the Irish Ambassador to the
U.S., Ann Anderson, met with U.S. government
agencies and the Distilled Spirits Council. Their
request: Give Irish whiskey protection as a geographic
designation, similar to Bourbon.
In the meantime, Irish whiskey continues to
surprise and delight, whether your taste runs
to fruity and grassy or caramel-forward and
intense.
—Kara Newman
bold, fruit aroma suggests fresh-cut apples and honeysuckle,
while the silky palate offers deep, bold flavor.
Look for dark honey and clove, edging into tea,
oak and cocoa midpalate. Apple freshness brightens
the dry finish. An ice cube is the only adornment
needed for this well-structured, tasty sipper.
abv: 40% Price: $65
94
Midleton Dair Ghaelach (Ireland; Pernod
Ricard, Purchase, NY). Made with a range of
15- to 22-year-old whiskies, this big, flavorful bottling
will remind some of bourbon. Look for a rich
amber color and caramel scent, and a robust palate
with tons of vanilla, peach and a warming cocoa and
espresso-tinged finish. Add a splash of water to balance
out the high proof. Note: Each label is marked
with the number of the tree (sustainably grown and
harvested) from which the barrel was made, making
this an ideal gift for an environmentally minded
whiskey lover.
abv: 58.2% Price: $270
94
Tullamore Dew Single Malt 18 Years Old (Ireland;
William Grant & Sons, New York, NY). A
quartet of casks (Bourbon, Sherry, Port, Madeira)
provide a spice-cake-like sipper. The complex,
drying palate opens with candied citrus peel and
almond, warms up with hints of molasses, ginger
and vanilla, and finishes with rounded toffee, cocoa
and spice.
abv: 41.3% Price: $110
94
Yellow Spot Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey
Aged 12 Years (Ireland; Pernod Ricard USA,
New York, NY). Aged in former Bourbon, Sherry and
Malaga casks, look for a deep orange-gold hue and
inviting baked-pear aroma. The robust, spiced palate
offers brown sugar, honey, golden raisins and
vanilla-tinged baked pear.
abv: 46% Price: $110
93
Green Spot Château Léoville Barton (Ireland;
Pernod Ricard, Purchase, NY). Attention
wine-lovers: Meet an Irish whiskey aged in
former Bordeaux wine barrels—specifically, barrels
from Château Léoville Barton, established by native
Irishman Thomas Barton in 1725. The end result is
a grassy, bright whiskey with a baked pear note midpalate
and a subtly smoky finish.
abv: 46% Price: $100
93
Knappogue Castle 12 Year Old Single Malt
(Ireland; Castle Brands, New York, NY). The
aroma is enticingly bright and fruity, like fresh
pears, while the palate is silky and mellow. A fruity
core is layered with vanilla, hints of salted butterscotch
and buttery croissant, plus a light sprinkle of
cinnamon and clove. Best Buy.
abv: 40% Price: $42
93
Powers John’s Lane Release Aged 12 Years
(Ireland; Pernod Ricard USA, New York, NY).
A dark, moody, almost Scotch-like take on Irish
whiskey. The concentrated aroma suggests caramel
and vanilla. Meanwhile, the velvety palate starts
at caramel but quickly deepens to dark chocolate,
molasses and coconut, teased at the edges by campfire
smoke and mint, finishing with anise and black
pepper heat. Think of s’mores held a little too long
at the fire and you get the idea.
abv: 46% Price: $70
93
Redbreast Aged 21 Years (Ireland; Pernod
Ricard USA, New York, NY). Burnished gold
in the glass, this robust sipper offers complex
vanilla, caramel, almond, butterscotch and honey.
A splash of water opens up fruitier notes: dried
apricot, buttery baked pear and a rounded, cloveaccented
finish.
abv: 46% Price: $350
93
The Tyrconnell 10 Year Old Sherry Cask (Ireland;
Beam Suntory, Chicago, IL). Break out
the water and ice, because this Sherry-finished
single malt is packing plenty of alcohol heat. That
said, there’s also plenty of flavor: vanilla and but-
106 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017