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in flavor and easy on the palate. It is good and userfriendly.
—J.G.
abv: 13.3% Price: $14
85
Stack House 2013 Red (Napa Valley). A
majority of Merlot meets Cabernet Franc in
this chocolaty-cherry wine, boldly full bodied and
robust in tannin and oak. Brambly blackberry and
black currant ride a soft mouthfeel that’s moderate
in acidity. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25
85
William Harrison 2012 Rutherford Red (Rutherford).
All five Bordeaux red varieties are
represented in this wine that puckers in sizable
tannin and oak. Tobacco and pencil shavings add
savory character to its full-bodied concentration.
—V.B.
abv: 14.7% Price: $85
83
Gnarly Head 2015 Authentic Harvest Red
(California). Soft, smooth and sweet, this is
a basic wine with raisin and prune flavors. It won’t
please those who normally drink dry varietal wines.
—J.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $12
82
Work 2012 Adrien’s Blend (Napa Valley). This
pruney, baked and somewhat sour blend of
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot presents itself as
overly ripe. —V.B.
abv: 14.8% Price: $75
93
OTHER RED WINES
Soulmate 2009 Estate Nebbiolo (Santa Cruz
Mountains). For full review see page 8. Cellar
Selection.
abv: 14% Price: $70
92
Solminer 2014 Delanda Vineyard Blaufränkisch
(Santa Ynez Valley). David and Anna
deLaski follow her Austrian heritage to this planting
of a sprightly red variety, with appealing freshness
and depth. It’s light in the glass, with aromas
of hibiscus, dried lilac, squeezed black plum and
a gravelly, slate-like minerality. The palate blends
smashed raspberry, dried mint, grape candy and
touches of herb. It’s light but fruity. Editors’ Choice.
—M.K.
abv: 13.3% Price: $38
91
Loring Wine Company 2015 Huber Vineyard
Dornfelder (Sta. Rita Hills). From vines of
this German grape planted by German ex-pats many
years ago, Brian Loring makes a delicious wine. Dark
and inky in the glass, it shows aromas of concentrated
blueberry, vanilla, mint and grape candy on
the nose. The palate is surprisingly medium bodied
for such a dark wine, with a decent dollop of acidity
along with lots of dried blueberry and juniper
flavors. —M.K.
abv: 14.3% Price: $45
90
Cougar 2013 Negroamaro (Temecula Valley).
Italian varieties do well in this warmer
Southern California region, and this obscure grape
is on that path. Baked blueberry, intriguing chocolate
spice, sandalwood and a touch of vanilla show
on the nose. Flavors are hearty, with blackberry,
nutmeg, espresso bean and melted chocolate set
upon a chalky structure. —M.K.
abv: 14.8% Price: $50
90
Holly’s Hill 2015 Estate Carignane (El
Dorado). This likable wine smells sweet
and plummy. It tastes smooth, juicy and fruity, as
red cherry and black-plum flavors spill over the
palate. Pleasantly medium bodied, it’s moderate in
tannins. —J.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $28
90
Klinker Brick 2014 Carignane (Lodi). Beautiful
oak accents help light up this rich, nicely
complex wine. Cinnamon, nutmeg and clove dress
up the aromas, while ripe, jammy black-cherry flavors
spread nicely on the palate and linger on the
finish. It’s light on tannins and pretty light in texture
for such a flavorful wine. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25
89
Longoria 2014 Tempranillo (Santa Ynez
Valley). Smoky beef aromas meet with
crushed pencils, toasty oak, cola and sweet tobacco
set against a subtle purple-fruit backdrop on this
bottling by Rick Longoria. The palate is dry, easy to
quaff and quite refreshing for a dark-red wine, with
subtle touches of clove, black currant and more oaksmoked
meat. —M.K.
abv: 14.4% Price: $36
89
Mesa Del Sol 2012 Sangiovese (Arroyo Seco).
Aromas on this wine are quite shy at first,
but then reveal dried black cherry, dust, turned
earth, with a touch of tar and cedar. The palate is
very dark and dry, with bitter chocolate, elderberry
and more cedar, showing impressive structure.
—M.K.
abv: 14.2% Price: $32
88
Wolff 2014 Estate Teroldego (Edna Valley).
Meaty aromas of beef jerky and roasted
game meet with licorice, black peppercorn and
black raspberry on the nose of this bottling of a
rarely used grape. The palate delivers lots of pepper
and quite a bit of tannic grip, though flavors aren’t
too deep, with gamy elements the most prevalent.
—M.K.
abv: 13.8% Price: $29
85
Cerridwen 2012 Moonlight Sonata Abouriou
(Russian River Valley). Comprised 100% of
this rare variety, this wine was given time to ferment
and age in French oak, half of it new. Ashy red
fruit meets a mild structure and considerable tannic
grip; only a tiny amount was made. —V.B.
abv: 14.3% Price: $75
82
Cougar 2014 Estate Cask Reserve Sangiovese
(Temecula Valley). Light in the glass, this
bottling is quite funky on the nose with reductive
red cherry and tar notes. Flavors are sour, full of tart
cherry and composting earth tones. —M.K.
abv: 12.6% Price: $41
95
CALIFORNIA
WHITE WINES
CHARDONNAY
Ryan Cochrane 2014 Solomon Hills Vineyard
Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Along
with a fascinating nose, this bottling from the appellation’s
westernmost vineyard offers the rounded
ripeness of cherimoya, nectarine and white peach
but with a laser-sharp line of crushed sea shell and
flint minerality alongside scratched lemon skin. The
palate rides that chalky line the whole way, offering
hints of lime pith, tangerine, sea salt and just
enough almond warmth. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 13.3% Price: $34
95
Three Sticks 2014 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay
(Sonoma Valley). Spicy acidity lies
beneath the full-bodied richness of this wine, providing
balance, freshness and a lightness on the palate
that surprises. Meyer lemon, salty caramel and
a feral overtone of forested woods combine effortlessly
to intrigue and delight, showcasing the beauty
that is Durell. —V.B.
abv: 14.6% Price: $50
95
Williams Selyem 2014 Allen Vineyard Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley). For full
review see page 4.
abv: 14.7% Price: $58
94
Lobo 2015 Wulff Vineyards Chardonnay
(Napa Valley). Winemaker Randy Lewis
made this wine, a showstopper in fleshy texture
and supportive oak. Characteristics of charcuterie
and spicy apple pie combine in a complex tension
of savory and richly layered concentration, leaving
a memorable impression as it traffics in nutmeg on
the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.7% Price: $60
94
Mollie 2014 Zotovich Vineyard Chardonnay
(Sta. Rita Hills). Lovely white-flower aromas
of lily, tuberose and plumeria are elegant and
engaging without being overpowering. These pair
nicely with the light mango, crushed sea shell and
petrol touch of the nose. Coconut, both dried flakes
and milk, shows strongly on the creamy sip, along
with honeysuckle, pineapple and fragrant white
fruit. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.2% Price: $30
94
Reuling Vineyard 2014 Chardonnay (Sonoma
Coast). This site continues to wow, especially
when featured by this grower-producer. Light,
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