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ackbone of freshness and concentration. Skurnik<br />
Wines, Inc. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $62<br />
92<br />
Bernhard Ott 2015 Stein Grüner Veltliner<br />
(Wagram). The very pure scent of green<br />
Conference pear peel rises from the glass. It is soon<br />
tempered by peppery yeast notes, but characterized<br />
throughout but that dual nature of freshness<br />
and the plumpness of rounded yeast. This contrast<br />
provides interest and makes this rather moreish,<br />
especially once you’ve savored the long spicy finish.<br />
Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $62<br />
92<br />
Brandl 2015 Lamm Reserve Grüner Veltliner<br />
(Kamptal). An almost honeyed nose tells of<br />
the 2015 ripeness, but instead leads to a concentrated<br />
palate that intriguingly combines peppery<br />
spice, savory herbs and rich mellow yeast. All this<br />
richness is tempered by a streamlined lemony acidity.<br />
This is savory, so make sure to pair it with subtle,<br />
expressive food. What a joy. MS Walker. —A.K.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $28<br />
92<br />
Ebner-Ebenauer 2015 Hermanschachern<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). The<br />
slightest touch of vanilla perfumes the nose. The<br />
palate is fresh and takes a little while to reveal its<br />
secrets: slowly enjoy this and its peppery savory<br />
core will become apparent. This is a quiet, unobtrusive<br />
wine—give it time to breathe and let it come<br />
towards you. Its gentle harmonious lightness will<br />
captivate. Winemonger. —A.K.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $22<br />
92<br />
Gruber Röschitz 2015 Mühlberg Reserve<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). It’s that<br />
arresting mix of flintiness and savory yeast that gets<br />
you first. There are hints of pine and ivy, all bedded<br />
in the ripeness of juicy yellow pear and mirabelle<br />
plum. Whiffs of white pepper provide extra excitement<br />
and draw you in. This is clean and complex,<br />
rich and streamlined. Dive in. Deutsch Family Wine<br />
and Spirits. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $27<br />
92<br />
Hiedler 2015 Ried Schnekenbichl Reserve<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Very subtle<br />
notions of nettle and ripe, yellow mirabelle plum<br />
play on the nose. The palate displays the same juicy<br />
notions and bounces with the ample fruit of 2015,<br />
tempered by spicy grapefruit zestiness. This offers<br />
a wonderful interplay of ripeness and just the right<br />
amount of refreshing tartness. Skurnik Wines, Inc.<br />
—A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5%<br />
Price: $NA<br />
92<br />
Hirsch 2015 Kammerner Lamm Grüner Veltliner<br />
(Kamptal). Nettle and yarrow, dried<br />
hay flowers and spice on the nose promise a lively,<br />
savory palate which indeed follows. All the spice<br />
is wrapped up with generous yellow and juicy pear<br />
fruit and goes down a treat. This is mellow and<br />
fruity, spicy, rounded and fresh: quite simply a joy<br />
to drink. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $45<br />
92<br />
Hirsch 2015 Kammerner Renner Grüner Veltliner<br />
(Kamptal). The nose is rather shy and<br />
merely hints at green Conference pear. The palate is<br />
soft but very peppery, the ripeness of yellow-stone<br />
fruit bathes the flavors in a warm light. This slowly<br />
but irredeemably draws you to its delicious, fruitdriven<br />
core. Balance comes by way of lemon freshness<br />
and savory spice. Enjoy! Skurnik Wines, Inc.<br />
—A.K.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $45<br />
92<br />
Ingrid Groiss 2015 Sauberg Tradition Grüner<br />
Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Something tender<br />
and fresh rises from the glass: Fresh moss and<br />
green pear peel and a hint of citrus. The palate is<br />
light and bright, luminous almost, in its aromatics.<br />
This draws you in with a seductive refreshing pull<br />
that promises unfettered joyful refreshment, though<br />
not without concentration. Circo Vino. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $47<br />
92<br />
Jurtschitsch 2015 Käferberg Reserve Grüner<br />
Veltliner (Kamptal). Softly perfumed stone<br />
fruits like ripe mirabelles shimmer in the glass and<br />
are supported on the palate with a zingy backbone<br />
of freshness. This is a wonderful union of ripe fruit<br />
flavors and exhilarating freshness. There is concentration<br />
at the core and a long whistle-clean finish.<br />
David Bowler Wine. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $50<br />
92<br />
Jurtschitsch 2015 Loiserberg Reserve Grüner<br />
Veltliner (Kamptal). The ripeness of pear<br />
and mirabelle is expressed with softness and gentleness.<br />
The nose is most inviting and leads to a<br />
more defined palate that also holds savory yeast<br />
and white pepper that appears in textured lemony<br />
waves. Beautiful and expressive. David Bowler<br />
Wine. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $28<br />
92<br />
Markus Huber 2015 Alte Setzen Reserve<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Traisental). Notes of spice<br />
and ripe stone fruit rise from the glass, along with a<br />
grapefruit-scented freshness. The palate comes with<br />
a very light-footed feel, full of weightless citrus flavors,<br />
edged with gentle white pepper and grapefruit<br />
spice. This is completely refreshing and beautifully<br />
delicate. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $40<br />
92<br />
Markus Huber 2015 Zwirch Reserve Grüner<br />
Veltliner (Traisental). While the nose is shy,<br />
the palate displays a grapefruit-spiced edged along<br />
with the ripeness of juicy stone fruit: mirabelles and<br />
yellow pears are conjured up. While the fruit is ripe<br />
the wine has something weightless, transparent and<br />
fresh. This goes down far too easily and needs to<br />
be savored. The finish is delicate but full flavored.<br />
Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $50<br />
92<br />
Netzl 2015 Bärnreiser Grüner Veltliner (Carnuntum).<br />
Yeasty roundness on nose and<br />
palate plays host to subtle explosions of spice: white<br />
pepper here, soft soy there. There is an underlying,<br />
streamlined citrus freshness that provides balance.<br />
A food wine par excellence: there is both body and<br />
finesse. KWSelection.com. —A.K.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $33<br />
92<br />
R&A Pfaffl 2015 Hundsleiten Reserve Grüner<br />
Veltliner (Weinviertel). Flint and yeast vie<br />
with each other to give the first impression of this<br />
rich wine. The palate backs this up with concentration<br />
and a fluid, soft but defined texture. There is a<br />
streamline of lemon freshness at the core. This is like<br />
a powerful beast that has barely flexed its muscle. Let<br />
it come towards you. Esprit du Vin. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $34<br />
92<br />
Salomon-Undhof 2015 Von Stein Reserve<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). An almost tropical<br />
touch of pineapple and passion fruit hovers over<br />
the glass. This is testament to the ripe 2015 vintage.<br />
The palate, however, reins in this fruity generosity<br />
with fresh, zesty notes of citrus, adding also a counterweight<br />
of textured phenolics. There is structure<br />
despite all the ripeness and ample refreshment,<br />
almost some grippiness. The zesty finish is very<br />
moreish. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.K.<br />
abv: 135% Price: $45<br />
92<br />
Steininger 2015 Loisium Weingarten Reserve<br />
Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Generously<br />
ripe notions of yellow plum and juicy pear fill the<br />
nose. The palate benefits from the same fruitfulness<br />
but adds a touch of pepper and herbal savor<br />
at its concentrated core. There is something joyful<br />
about this. Despite the generous fruit this stays<br />
streamlined and supercrisp. The finish focuses on<br />
that wonderfully spicy pepperiness. KWSelection.<br />
com. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />
92<br />
Türk 2015 Frechau Reserve Grüner Veltliner<br />
(Kremstal). The nose burgeons with so<br />
much ripeness of fruit, there is almost a hint of<br />
dried pear with a big dollop of spice. The palate<br />
shows the same generosity but is masterfully balanced<br />
by a lovely phenolic edge and zesty grapefruit<br />
freshness. White pepper shimmers in the background<br />
and makes for a very well-rounded, balanced,<br />
juicy and refreshing wine. Balanced Wine<br />
Selections LLC. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $45<br />
91<br />
Dürnberg 2015 Rabenstein Reserve Grüner<br />
Veltliner (Weinviertel). The nose is almost<br />
closed but the palate paints a subtle picture of<br />
toned-down intensity. A savory core is made mellow<br />
with lees and a slight oak influence that becomes<br />
more apparent on the finish. Fruit—pear and yellow<br />
plum—plays second fiddle to the yeasty midpalate.<br />
Massanois Imports. —A.K.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $25<br />
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