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ackbone of freshness and concentration. Skurnik<br />

Wines, Inc. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $62<br />

92<br />

Bernhard Ott 2015 Stein Grüner Veltliner<br />

(Wagram). The very pure scent of green<br />

Conference pear peel rises from the glass. It is soon<br />

tempered by peppery yeast notes, but characterized<br />

throughout but that dual nature of freshness<br />

and the plumpness of rounded yeast. This contrast<br />

provides interest and makes this rather moreish,<br />

especially once you’ve savored the long spicy finish.<br />

Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $62<br />

92<br />

Brandl 2015 Lamm Reserve Grüner Veltliner<br />

(Kamptal). An almost honeyed nose tells of<br />

the 2015 ripeness, but instead leads to a concentrated<br />

palate that intriguingly combines peppery<br />

spice, savory herbs and rich mellow yeast. All this<br />

richness is tempered by a streamlined lemony acidity.<br />

This is savory, so make sure to pair it with subtle,<br />

expressive food. What a joy. MS Walker. —A.K.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $28<br />

92<br />

Ebner-Ebenauer 2015 Hermanschachern<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). The<br />

slightest touch of vanilla perfumes the nose. The<br />

palate is fresh and takes a little while to reveal its<br />

secrets: slowly enjoy this and its peppery savory<br />

core will become apparent. This is a quiet, unobtrusive<br />

wine—give it time to breathe and let it come<br />

towards you. Its gentle harmonious lightness will<br />

captivate. Winemonger. —A.K.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $22<br />

92<br />

Gruber Röschitz 2015 Mühlberg Reserve<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). It’s that<br />

arresting mix of flintiness and savory yeast that gets<br />

you first. There are hints of pine and ivy, all bedded<br />

in the ripeness of juicy yellow pear and mirabelle<br />

plum. Whiffs of white pepper provide extra excitement<br />

and draw you in. This is clean and complex,<br />

rich and streamlined. Dive in. Deutsch Family Wine<br />

and Spirits. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $27<br />

92<br />

Hiedler 2015 Ried Schnekenbichl Reserve<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Very subtle<br />

notions of nettle and ripe, yellow mirabelle plum<br />

play on the nose. The palate displays the same juicy<br />

notions and bounces with the ample fruit of 2015,<br />

tempered by spicy grapefruit zestiness. This offers<br />

a wonderful interplay of ripeness and just the right<br />

amount of refreshing tartness. Skurnik Wines, Inc.<br />

—A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5%<br />

Price: $NA<br />

92<br />

Hirsch 2015 Kammerner Lamm Grüner Veltliner<br />

(Kamptal). Nettle and yarrow, dried<br />

hay flowers and spice on the nose promise a lively,<br />

savory palate which indeed follows. All the spice<br />

is wrapped up with generous yellow and juicy pear<br />

fruit and goes down a treat. This is mellow and<br />

fruity, spicy, rounded and fresh: quite simply a joy<br />

to drink. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $45<br />

92<br />

Hirsch 2015 Kammerner Renner Grüner Veltliner<br />

(Kamptal). The nose is rather shy and<br />

merely hints at green Conference pear. The palate is<br />

soft but very peppery, the ripeness of yellow-stone<br />

fruit bathes the flavors in a warm light. This slowly<br />

but irredeemably draws you to its delicious, fruitdriven<br />

core. Balance comes by way of lemon freshness<br />

and savory spice. Enjoy! Skurnik Wines, Inc.<br />

—A.K.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $45<br />

92<br />

Ingrid Groiss 2015 Sauberg Tradition Grüner<br />

Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Something tender<br />

and fresh rises from the glass: Fresh moss and<br />

green pear peel and a hint of citrus. The palate is<br />

light and bright, luminous almost, in its aromatics.<br />

This draws you in with a seductive refreshing pull<br />

that promises unfettered joyful refreshment, though<br />

not without concentration. Circo Vino. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $47<br />

92<br />

Jurtschitsch 2015 Käferberg Reserve Grüner<br />

Veltliner (Kamptal). Softly perfumed stone<br />

fruits like ripe mirabelles shimmer in the glass and<br />

are supported on the palate with a zingy backbone<br />

of freshness. This is a wonderful union of ripe fruit<br />

flavors and exhilarating freshness. There is concentration<br />

at the core and a long whistle-clean finish.<br />

David Bowler Wine. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $50<br />

92<br />

Jurtschitsch 2015 Loiserberg Reserve Grüner<br />

Veltliner (Kamptal). The ripeness of pear<br />

and mirabelle is expressed with softness and gentleness.<br />

The nose is most inviting and leads to a<br />

more defined palate that also holds savory yeast<br />

and white pepper that appears in textured lemony<br />

waves. Beautiful and expressive. David Bowler<br />

Wine. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $28<br />

92<br />

Markus Huber 2015 Alte Setzen Reserve<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Traisental). Notes of spice<br />

and ripe stone fruit rise from the glass, along with a<br />

grapefruit-scented freshness. The palate comes with<br />

a very light-footed feel, full of weightless citrus flavors,<br />

edged with gentle white pepper and grapefruit<br />

spice. This is completely refreshing and beautifully<br />

delicate. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $40<br />

92<br />

Markus Huber 2015 Zwirch Reserve Grüner<br />

Veltliner (Traisental). While the nose is shy,<br />

the palate displays a grapefruit-spiced edged along<br />

with the ripeness of juicy stone fruit: mirabelles and<br />

yellow pears are conjured up. While the fruit is ripe<br />

the wine has something weightless, transparent and<br />

fresh. This goes down far too easily and needs to<br />

be savored. The finish is delicate but full flavored.<br />

Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $50<br />

92<br />

Netzl 2015 Bärnreiser Grüner Veltliner (Carnuntum).<br />

Yeasty roundness on nose and<br />

palate plays host to subtle explosions of spice: white<br />

pepper here, soft soy there. There is an underlying,<br />

streamlined citrus freshness that provides balance.<br />

A food wine par excellence: there is both body and<br />

finesse. KWSelection.com. —A.K.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $33<br />

92<br />

R&A Pfaffl 2015 Hundsleiten Reserve Grüner<br />

Veltliner (Weinviertel). Flint and yeast vie<br />

with each other to give the first impression of this<br />

rich wine. The palate backs this up with concentration<br />

and a fluid, soft but defined texture. There is a<br />

streamline of lemon freshness at the core. This is like<br />

a powerful beast that has barely flexed its muscle. Let<br />

it come towards you. Esprit du Vin. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $34<br />

92<br />

Salomon-Undhof 2015 Von Stein Reserve<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). An almost tropical<br />

touch of pineapple and passion fruit hovers over<br />

the glass. This is testament to the ripe 2015 vintage.<br />

The palate, however, reins in this fruity generosity<br />

with fresh, zesty notes of citrus, adding also a counterweight<br />

of textured phenolics. There is structure<br />

despite all the ripeness and ample refreshment,<br />

almost some grippiness. The zesty finish is very<br />

moreish. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.K.<br />

abv: 135% Price: $45<br />

92<br />

Steininger 2015 Loisium Weingarten Reserve<br />

Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Generously<br />

ripe notions of yellow plum and juicy pear fill the<br />

nose. The palate benefits from the same fruitfulness<br />

but adds a touch of pepper and herbal savor<br />

at its concentrated core. There is something joyful<br />

about this. Despite the generous fruit this stays<br />

streamlined and supercrisp. The finish focuses on<br />

that wonderfully spicy pepperiness. KWSelection.<br />

com. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />

92<br />

Türk 2015 Frechau Reserve Grüner Veltliner<br />

(Kremstal). The nose burgeons with so<br />

much ripeness of fruit, there is almost a hint of<br />

dried pear with a big dollop of spice. The palate<br />

shows the same generosity but is masterfully balanced<br />

by a lovely phenolic edge and zesty grapefruit<br />

freshness. White pepper shimmers in the background<br />

and makes for a very well-rounded, balanced,<br />

juicy and refreshing wine. Balanced Wine<br />

Selections LLC. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $45<br />

91<br />

Dürnberg 2015 Rabenstein Reserve Grüner<br />

Veltliner (Weinviertel). The nose is almost<br />

closed but the palate paints a subtle picture of<br />

toned-down intensity. A savory core is made mellow<br />

with lees and a slight oak influence that becomes<br />

more apparent on the finish. Fruit—pear and yellow<br />

plum—plays second fiddle to the yeasty midpalate.<br />

Massanois Imports. —A.K.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $25<br />

WINEMAG.COM | 97

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