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in this sprightly semi-dry Riesling. It’s a delicately<br />
concentrated wine but bolstered by crisp lemon<br />
acidity and touches of bramble and spice. Drink<br />
now through 2019. —A.I.<br />
abv: 9.5% Price: $33<br />
87<br />
Lamoreaux Landing 2014 Red Oak Vineyard<br />
Riesling (Finger Lakes). Dusty mineral,<br />
smoke and struck flint lend a savory tone to<br />
this lean light-bodied Riesling. Off dry in style, the<br />
palate offers delicately concentrated flavors of red<br />
apple and nectarine off set by tangerine acidity.<br />
Drink now through 2021. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12.2% Price: $20<br />
87<br />
Lamoreaux Landing 2014 Yellow Dog Vineyard<br />
Riesling (Finger Lakes). Intensely smoky<br />
tones of struck flint and ash extend throughout this<br />
otherwise bright nimble Riesling. The palate boasts<br />
freshly pressed apple and pear flavors accentuated by<br />
zippy lemon-lime acidity. Drink now through 2021.<br />
—A.I.<br />
abv: 12.2% Price: $20<br />
87<br />
Sheldrake Point 2015 Dry Estate Bottled<br />
Riesling (Finger Lakes). Cutting lemon, lime<br />
and tangerine flavors lend puckering refreshment to<br />
this light-bodied dry Riesling. It’s lean in style but<br />
invigorating and fresh. A hint of zest adds bite to<br />
a lingering finish. Drink now through 2020. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12.2% Price: $16<br />
87<br />
Treleaven 2014 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger<br />
Lakes). Zippy white grapefruit and lemon<br />
juxtapose more savory tones of crushed mineral,<br />
pressed apple and pear in this off-dry Riesling. The<br />
palate is sprightly and bright with a clean, moderately<br />
persistent finish. Drink now through 2019.<br />
—A.I.<br />
abv: 11.5% Price: $15<br />
86<br />
McGregor 2014 Riesling (Finger Lakes).<br />
Savory, sightly bruised tones of pressed<br />
apple and pear persist throughout this briskly composed<br />
wine. Off dry in style, it’s limned by a comforting<br />
edge of honey and sweet-tart tangerine. Drink<br />
now through 2019. —A.I.<br />
abv: 11% Price: $20<br />
86<br />
Swedish Hill 2015 Dry Riesling (Finger<br />
Lakes). While fresh white flower, apple and<br />
lemon aromas on the nose are quite concentrated,<br />
the palate of this feather-light Riesling is a bit lean<br />
by comparison. Its lemony-fresh disposition offers<br />
refreshment though without complication. Enjoy<br />
now through 2018. —A.I.<br />
abv: 11.5% Price: $16<br />
86<br />
Treleaven 2013 Reserve Riesling (Cayuga<br />
Lake). Savory tones of dusty mineral and<br />
smoked nuts persist from nose to finish on this<br />
slightly off-dry Riesling. Pressed apple and pear flavors<br />
on the palate are crisp, finishing with lingering<br />
earthiness. Drink now through 2019. —A.I.<br />
abv: 11.5% Price: $22<br />
85<br />
Three Brothers 2015 0 Degrees of Riesling<br />
Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). While fresh<br />
lemon and lime notes are invigorating, there’s a<br />
slightly savory tone to this dry Riesling suggesting<br />
hints of grain and milled corn. Its spry light-bodied<br />
style is thirst quenching, however, and the finish<br />
wraps up brisk and clean. Drink now through 2018.<br />
—A.I.<br />
abv: 12% Price: $16<br />
88<br />
OTHER WHITE WINES<br />
Heron Hill 2015 Reserve Morris Vineyard<br />
Pinot Blanc (Finger Lakes). Crisp lemon,<br />
apple and pear abound in this richly textured yet<br />
pertly balanced Pinot Blanc. It’s an easy quaffing,<br />
elegant wine with hints of nut and toast that<br />
extend elegantly on the finish. Drink now through<br />
2020. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $20<br />
88<br />
Rooster Hill 2015 Estate Vidal Blanc (Finger<br />
Lakes). Pleasant whiffs of smoked nut and<br />
blossom accent fresh apple and pear in this squarely<br />
balanced dry white. Fresh acidity on the midpalate<br />
lends zip to a lingering but refreshing finish. Drink<br />
now through 2020. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12.8% Price: $15<br />
86<br />
Glenora 2015 Pinot Blanc (Finger Lakes). A<br />
rich backdrop of cream and toast bolsters<br />
this delicate apple-scented wine. While light in<br />
body and concentration, its lingering silkiness is<br />
pleasant and comforting. Drink now through 2019.<br />
—A.I.<br />
abv: 12% Price: $15<br />
85<br />
Standing Stone 2015 Dry Vidal (Finger<br />
Lakes). Slightly muted tones of pressed<br />
apple and pear waft from this light-bodied Vidal<br />
Blanc. It’s not a deeply concentrated or persistent<br />
wine but bright and quaffable. Sunny tangerine<br />
acidity brightens a brisk finish. Drink now through<br />
2019. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12.3% Price: $14<br />
89<br />
ROSÉS<br />
Dr. Konstantin Frank 2015 Dry Rosé (Finger<br />
Lakes). Intensely fruity notes of red currant<br />
and raspberry abound on this fragrant full-bodied<br />
rosé. It’s boldly concentrated on the palate as well,<br />
bursting of fresh berry and plum flavors. Primary<br />
and juicy in style, yet elegant and penetrating, it’s<br />
an excellent rosé for year-round consumption—if<br />
you can still find a bottle. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12.8% Price: $15<br />
89<br />
McGregor 2015 Rosé of Cabernet Franc<br />
(Finger Lakes). Fresh raspberry and peach<br />
perfume collide into a zesty crush of minerality on<br />
the nose and palate of this invigorating dry rosé. It’s<br />
feather light on the palate but zippy and bright in<br />
acidity. The finish is marked by a lingering but delicate<br />
bite of astringency. A rosé worth seeking out far<br />
beyond the summer months. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12.1% Price: $16<br />
88<br />
Lamoreaux Landing 2015 Dry Rosé (Finger<br />
Lakes). Smoky flint and crushed mineral<br />
tones contrast concentrated raspberry and strawberry<br />
flavors in this richly concentrated rosé. Full<br />
bodied and supple in texture, it’s sturdy enough to<br />
accompany heartier fish and fowl dishes far beyond<br />
the summer months. Sunny acidity brightens the<br />
finish. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13.7% Price: $17<br />
86<br />
240 Days 2015 Rosé (Finger Lakes). Subtle<br />
notes of bramble, smoke and raspberry<br />
entice on the nose of this dry rosé. While delicate<br />
in concentration, its supple silken mouthfeel and<br />
yielding acidity are approachable and comforting.<br />
The finish is bright and clean. Drink now. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12% Price: $28<br />
86<br />
McGregor 2015 Pinot Noir Rosé (Finger<br />
Lakes). While the nose is quite bold, boasting<br />
concentrated notes of strawberry leather and<br />
caramel, the palate on this delicately framed rosé<br />
is demure. It’s a bit light in concentration with soft<br />
acidity, but an easygoing quaffer for early consumption.<br />
—A.I.<br />
abv: 12.1% Price: $16<br />
91<br />
PINOT NOIR<br />
Thirsty Owl Wine Company 2015 Pinot Noir<br />
(Finger Lakes). Lavish violet perfume introduces<br />
this demure yet luminous Pinot Noir. Crisp<br />
black cherry and berry flavors are full of tartness<br />
and vibe, yet edged by soft tones of toast and earth,<br />
along with a fine frame of tannins. The finish meanders<br />
beautifully. It’s ready to drink now but should<br />
continue to drink well until at least 2023. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12.8% Price: $18<br />
90<br />
Hudson-Chatham 2014 Columbia County<br />
Pinot Noir (Hudson River Region). A bright<br />
star within Hudson-Chatham’s strong lineup of red<br />
wine, this Pinot Noir offers loads of fresh pristine<br />
black-cherry and berry flavors. Whiffs of bramble,<br />
toast and anise lend complexity to a neatly balanced<br />
yet silken palate. A fine feathery fringe of tannins<br />
leads a long finish. Drink now through 2022. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12% Price: $25<br />
89<br />
Billsboro 2014 Leidenfrost Vineyards Pinot<br />
Noir (Finger Lakes). Rich ripe black-cherry<br />
and plum flavors burst from the glass in this robust,<br />
lavishly toasty Pinot Noir. Shards of granite minerality<br />
and bold tannins lend structure to the midpalate,<br />
along with a refreshing swathe of herbs on the<br />
finish. Enjoy now through 2021. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $27<br />
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