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BUYINGGUIDE<br />
a touch of cedar. Full bodied, it’s a ripe, bold and<br />
brawny wine. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $55<br />
88<br />
Galvan 2013 Sun on the Mountain (Howell<br />
Mountain). This blends 62% Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />
20% Cabernet Franc and 18% Petit Verdot.<br />
Spicy and lean, it was aged in all-new French oak<br />
that provides a nice background of structure and<br />
strength. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $95<br />
88<br />
Kuleto Estate 2013 India Ink (Napa Valley).<br />
Ripe, dark and leathery, this full-bodied,<br />
rounded wine blends 45% Syrah with 28% Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon, 22% Merlot plus handfuls of Malbec<br />
and Petit Verdot. Aged in French and Hungarian<br />
oak barrels and puncheons, it shows its heritage in a<br />
perfume of woody chewiness and meaty dried herb.<br />
—V.B.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $35<br />
88<br />
Lost Blues 2012 Good Fences Grenache-<br />
Syrah (California). At first whiff, there’s a<br />
slightly odd funkiness to this co-fermented blend<br />
of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, but that blows<br />
off with time. Aromas of dill, green peppercorns,<br />
wet cedar and forest underbrush lead into flavors of<br />
freshly sliced rare beef, dried mulberry, fresh elderberry<br />
and slightly sour tar. —M.K.<br />
abv: 15.6% Price: $42<br />
88<br />
Marietta Cellars NV Arme Lot Number 3<br />
(North Coast). Dark in color, intense in<br />
fruit flavor and firmly packed with tannins, this<br />
blockbuster Bordeaux-style blend feels massive and<br />
grippy. It tastes like cranberry and blackberry, leaving<br />
astringency on the palate that will match up to<br />
the richest foods. Age a few bottles through 2019 to<br />
see how it matures. —J.G.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $25<br />
88<br />
Parker 2014 Daily Red Blend Alisos Vineyard<br />
(Santa Barbara County). Crushed black currant<br />
meets with turned earth and black pepper on<br />
this interesting blend of 50% Syrah, 25% Cabernet<br />
Franc and 25% Merlot. The palate is well integrated<br />
with flavors of sour cherry and black plum, proving<br />
quite tangy and tart, although wrapped up in silky<br />
tannins. —M.K.<br />
abv: 13.7% Price: $36<br />
88<br />
Priest Ranch 2013 Coach Gun Estate Grown<br />
Proprietary Red (Napa Valley). This bigboy<br />
red combines 30% Cabernet Franc with 20%<br />
each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, adding<br />
15% each of Malbec and Petit Verdot for an all-five<br />
red-Bordeaux-varietal blend. Coconut flakes and<br />
vanilla-hugged oak ride sticky tannins to a quick<br />
finish, offering huge ripeness along the way. —V.B.<br />
abv: 15.6% Price: $80<br />
88<br />
Sequum 2013 MIXT (Napa Valley). This is a<br />
hearty coming-together of Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />
Zinfandel, Syrah and Petite Sirah. It dances<br />
in baked plum and raisin as a tartness of cherry and<br />
savory dried herb counterbalances the rich ripeness<br />
and sizable tannin. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />
88<br />
Soquel Vineyards 2013 Intreccio Library<br />
Selection (Napa Valley). This blends 20%<br />
each of all five red-Bordeaux varieties, showing<br />
grapy, plummy flavor that’s juicy and soft on the<br />
palate. With a core of tobacco, tar and graphite,<br />
it complements the fruity with the savory, ending<br />
simply and elegantly. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $75<br />
87<br />
Bota Box 2014 Nighthawk Black (California).<br />
There is something compelling and delicious<br />
about the pure, grapy jamminess of this exuberant<br />
wine. It has deep color, aromas like blackberry and<br />
Concord-grape jelly, a dry balance and ripe flavors.<br />
A light touch of tannin boosts the texture, and it’s<br />
difficult to beat the value. Best Buy. —J.G.<br />
abv: 13.5%<br />
Price: $23/3 L<br />
87<br />
Buena Vista 2014 The Count Founder’s Red<br />
(Sonoma County). A mix of unidentified red<br />
varieties, this wine opens slowly, without much in<br />
the way of aromatics. Weedy sage, tobacco and a<br />
grip of tannin give it weight and richness alongside<br />
its full body, as a bramble of blackberry and currant<br />
weave within. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />
87<br />
Cameron Hughes 2014 Lot 530 Syrah-<br />
Grenache (Santa Ynez Valley). Black cherry,<br />
roasted meats, turned loam and a little bit of gingerbread<br />
make for a very inviting nose to this bottling.<br />
Clay and wet earth flavors kick off the palate,<br />
followed by touches of forest floor and dried red<br />
cherry. —M.K.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $14<br />
87<br />
HandCraft 2015 Artisan Collection Dark Red<br />
Wine (California). For full review see page<br />
22. Best Buy.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $9<br />
87<br />
Pull 2012 BDX (Paso Robles). Tar, dried meat,<br />
olallieberry and sharp cedar aromas show<br />
on this blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon and 49%<br />
Merlot. Dried strawberries and plums mix with<br />
thyme and dried rose petals on the palate. —M.K.<br />
abv: 13.6% Price: $18<br />
87<br />
R2 2013 Rhapsody En Blu (Santa Ynez Valley).<br />
The most interesting thing about this<br />
wine is the use of 62% Carignane (the rest being<br />
Grenache), which gives it a peppery, crushed-clove<br />
quality on the nose, alongside red cherry and redplum<br />
fruit. Rose petals, cinnamon and red fruits<br />
play on the zesty if slightly thin palate. —M.K.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $26<br />
86<br />
Great American Wine Company 2013 Red<br />
(California). Lots of grapy, raisiny flavors<br />
drench this wine with fruitiness, while a smooth,<br />
soft texture and touch of sweetness keep the texture<br />
mild. It’s medium bodied, not at all tannic, and easy<br />
to sip. —J.G.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $16<br />
86<br />
Mount Veeder 2013 Reserve (Mount Veeder).<br />
Four out of five red-Bordeaux varieties are<br />
represented here, with Cabernet Sauvignon the<br />
overwhelming majority. Dried herb, tar and a bitter<br />
note of tobacco leaf meet persistent oak and a<br />
wealth of tannin, the wine still youthful in its grip.<br />
—V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $100<br />
86<br />
Neyers 2015 Sage Canyon (California).<br />
Medium bodied and lean in profile, this<br />
wine starts with floral aromas, then brings in fairly<br />
tart cherry and pomegranate flavors and firmly tannic<br />
texture. —J.G.<br />
abv: 13.6% Price: $26<br />
86<br />
Rhiannon 2014 Red (California). Aromas<br />
like maple syrup and fresh-cut oak sawdust<br />
set the stage for a powerfully oaky, smoky, spicy<br />
flavor and finish for this full-bodied, firm-textured<br />
wine. It’s very dramatic and extreme in style, so<br />
some drinkers will love it and others will find it over<br />
the top. —J.G.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $12<br />
86<br />
Stolen Identity 2014 Red (California). This<br />
deeply colored, full-bodied wine adds<br />
chocolaty richness to ripe plum and blackberry flavors,<br />
backed with light tannins that counter a bit of<br />
sweetness. —J.G.<br />
abv: 15.2% Price: $17<br />
86<br />
Wolff 2014 Red Wolff (Central Coast). Red<br />
cherry, brick, dust and dried-earth aromas<br />
arise from this blend of 30% Merlot, 24% Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon, 20% Syrah, 15% Grenache and 11%<br />
Nebbiolo from San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara<br />
counties. Forest-floor flavors of pine needle and<br />
turned earth show on the palate, along with light<br />
cranberry and cherry fruit. —M.K.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $26<br />
85<br />
Four Sisters Ranch 2014 Tilden (Paso<br />
Robles). This interesting blend holds 67%<br />
Grenache and 33% Tempranillo, although the<br />
results are a tad thin and reedy, with dried berries,<br />
hay, smoke and allspice aromas. The palate is relatively<br />
light, with oregano and cherry flavors. —M.K.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $30<br />
85<br />
Pull 2012 CdR (Paso Robles). This blend of<br />
53% Grenache, 23% Petite Sirah, 20%<br />
Syrah and 4% Viognier offers cinnamon spice, red<br />
cherry and slight pomegranate on the nose. The palate<br />
shows tangy cranberry fruit, a bit of baking spice<br />
and a very clay-like minerality and texture. —M.K.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $18<br />
85<br />
Q & A NV Red (California). Smooth, medium<br />
bodied and agreeable, this wine is plummy<br />
40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017