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BUYINGGUIDE<br />

a touch of cedar. Full bodied, it’s a ripe, bold and<br />

brawny wine. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $55<br />

88<br />

Galvan 2013 Sun on the Mountain (Howell<br />

Mountain). This blends 62% Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />

20% Cabernet Franc and 18% Petit Verdot.<br />

Spicy and lean, it was aged in all-new French oak<br />

that provides a nice background of structure and<br />

strength. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.4% Price: $95<br />

88<br />

Kuleto Estate 2013 India Ink (Napa Valley).<br />

Ripe, dark and leathery, this full-bodied,<br />

rounded wine blends 45% Syrah with 28% Cabernet<br />

Sauvignon, 22% Merlot plus handfuls of Malbec<br />

and Petit Verdot. Aged in French and Hungarian<br />

oak barrels and puncheons, it shows its heritage in a<br />

perfume of woody chewiness and meaty dried herb.<br />

—V.B.<br />

abv: 14.8% Price: $35<br />

88<br />

Lost Blues 2012 Good Fences Grenache-<br />

Syrah (California). At first whiff, there’s a<br />

slightly odd funkiness to this co-fermented blend<br />

of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, but that blows<br />

off with time. Aromas of dill, green peppercorns,<br />

wet cedar and forest underbrush lead into flavors of<br />

freshly sliced rare beef, dried mulberry, fresh elderberry<br />

and slightly sour tar. —M.K.<br />

abv: 15.6% Price: $42<br />

88<br />

Marietta Cellars NV Arme Lot Number 3<br />

(North Coast). Dark in color, intense in<br />

fruit flavor and firmly packed with tannins, this<br />

blockbuster Bordeaux-style blend feels massive and<br />

grippy. It tastes like cranberry and blackberry, leaving<br />

astringency on the palate that will match up to<br />

the richest foods. Age a few bottles through 2019 to<br />

see how it matures. —J.G.<br />

abv: 14.6% Price: $25<br />

88<br />

Parker 2014 Daily Red Blend Alisos Vineyard<br />

(Santa Barbara County). Crushed black currant<br />

meets with turned earth and black pepper on<br />

this interesting blend of 50% Syrah, 25% Cabernet<br />

Franc and 25% Merlot. The palate is well integrated<br />

with flavors of sour cherry and black plum, proving<br />

quite tangy and tart, although wrapped up in silky<br />

tannins. —M.K.<br />

abv: 13.7% Price: $36<br />

88<br />

Priest Ranch 2013 Coach Gun Estate Grown<br />

Proprietary Red (Napa Valley). This bigboy<br />

red combines 30% Cabernet Franc with 20%<br />

each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, adding<br />

15% each of Malbec and Petit Verdot for an all-five<br />

red-Bordeaux-varietal blend. Coconut flakes and<br />

vanilla-hugged oak ride sticky tannins to a quick<br />

finish, offering huge ripeness along the way. —V.B.<br />

abv: 15.6% Price: $80<br />

88<br />

Sequum 2013 MIXT (Napa Valley). This is a<br />

hearty coming-together of Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />

Zinfandel, Syrah and Petite Sirah. It dances<br />

in baked plum and raisin as a tartness of cherry and<br />

savory dried herb counterbalances the rich ripeness<br />

and sizable tannin. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />

88<br />

Soquel Vineyards 2013 Intreccio Library<br />

Selection (Napa Valley). This blends 20%<br />

each of all five red-Bordeaux varieties, showing<br />

grapy, plummy flavor that’s juicy and soft on the<br />

palate. With a core of tobacco, tar and graphite,<br />

it complements the fruity with the savory, ending<br />

simply and elegantly. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $75<br />

87<br />

Bota Box 2014 Nighthawk Black (California).<br />

There is something compelling and delicious<br />

about the pure, grapy jamminess of this exuberant<br />

wine. It has deep color, aromas like blackberry and<br />

Concord-grape jelly, a dry balance and ripe flavors.<br />

A light touch of tannin boosts the texture, and it’s<br />

difficult to beat the value. Best Buy. —J.G.<br />

abv: 13.5%<br />

Price: $23/3 L<br />

87<br />

Buena Vista 2014 The Count Founder’s Red<br />

(Sonoma County). A mix of unidentified red<br />

varieties, this wine opens slowly, without much in<br />

the way of aromatics. Weedy sage, tobacco and a<br />

grip of tannin give it weight and richness alongside<br />

its full body, as a bramble of blackberry and currant<br />

weave within. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />

87<br />

Cameron Hughes 2014 Lot 530 Syrah-<br />

Grenache (Santa Ynez Valley). Black cherry,<br />

roasted meats, turned loam and a little bit of gingerbread<br />

make for a very inviting nose to this bottling.<br />

Clay and wet earth flavors kick off the palate,<br />

followed by touches of forest floor and dried red<br />

cherry. —M.K.<br />

abv: 14.4% Price: $14<br />

87<br />

HandCraft 2015 Artisan Collection Dark Red<br />

Wine (California). For full review see page<br />

22. Best Buy.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $9<br />

87<br />

Pull 2012 BDX (Paso Robles). Tar, dried meat,<br />

olallieberry and sharp cedar aromas show<br />

on this blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon and 49%<br />

Merlot. Dried strawberries and plums mix with<br />

thyme and dried rose petals on the palate. —M.K.<br />

abv: 13.6% Price: $18<br />

87<br />

R2 2013 Rhapsody En Blu (Santa Ynez Valley).<br />

The most interesting thing about this<br />

wine is the use of 62% Carignane (the rest being<br />

Grenache), which gives it a peppery, crushed-clove<br />

quality on the nose, alongside red cherry and redplum<br />

fruit. Rose petals, cinnamon and red fruits<br />

play on the zesty if slightly thin palate. —M.K.<br />

abv: 14.3% Price: $26<br />

86<br />

Great American Wine Company 2013 Red<br />

(California). Lots of grapy, raisiny flavors<br />

drench this wine with fruitiness, while a smooth,<br />

soft texture and touch of sweetness keep the texture<br />

mild. It’s medium bodied, not at all tannic, and easy<br />

to sip. —J.G.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $16<br />

86<br />

Mount Veeder 2013 Reserve (Mount Veeder).<br />

Four out of five red-Bordeaux varieties are<br />

represented here, with Cabernet Sauvignon the<br />

overwhelming majority. Dried herb, tar and a bitter<br />

note of tobacco leaf meet persistent oak and a<br />

wealth of tannin, the wine still youthful in its grip.<br />

—V.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $100<br />

86<br />

Neyers 2015 Sage Canyon (California).<br />

Medium bodied and lean in profile, this<br />

wine starts with floral aromas, then brings in fairly<br />

tart cherry and pomegranate flavors and firmly tannic<br />

texture. —J.G.<br />

abv: 13.6% Price: $26<br />

86<br />

Rhiannon 2014 Red (California). Aromas<br />

like maple syrup and fresh-cut oak sawdust<br />

set the stage for a powerfully oaky, smoky, spicy<br />

flavor and finish for this full-bodied, firm-textured<br />

wine. It’s very dramatic and extreme in style, so<br />

some drinkers will love it and others will find it over<br />

the top. —J.G.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $12<br />

86<br />

Stolen Identity 2014 Red (California). This<br />

deeply colored, full-bodied wine adds<br />

chocolaty richness to ripe plum and blackberry flavors,<br />

backed with light tannins that counter a bit of<br />

sweetness. —J.G.<br />

abv: 15.2% Price: $17<br />

86<br />

Wolff 2014 Red Wolff (Central Coast). Red<br />

cherry, brick, dust and dried-earth aromas<br />

arise from this blend of 30% Merlot, 24% Cabernet<br />

Sauvignon, 20% Syrah, 15% Grenache and 11%<br />

Nebbiolo from San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara<br />

counties. Forest-floor flavors of pine needle and<br />

turned earth show on the palate, along with light<br />

cranberry and cherry fruit. —M.K.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $26<br />

85<br />

Four Sisters Ranch 2014 Tilden (Paso<br />

Robles). This interesting blend holds 67%<br />

Grenache and 33% Tempranillo, although the<br />

results are a tad thin and reedy, with dried berries,<br />

hay, smoke and allspice aromas. The palate is relatively<br />

light, with oregano and cherry flavors. —M.K.<br />

abv: 14.3% Price: $30<br />

85<br />

Pull 2012 CdR (Paso Robles). This blend of<br />

53% Grenache, 23% Petite Sirah, 20%<br />

Syrah and 4% Viognier offers cinnamon spice, red<br />

cherry and slight pomegranate on the nose. The palate<br />

shows tangy cranberry fruit, a bit of baking spice<br />

and a very clay-like minerality and texture. —M.K.<br />

abv: 14.2% Price: $18<br />

85<br />

Q & A NV Red (California). Smooth, medium<br />

bodied and agreeable, this wine is plummy<br />

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017

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