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BUYINGGUIDE
sip, followed by oaky vanilla and a touch of pine. it’s
very well focused. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.1% Price: $39
92
Alta Colina 2014 Estate Cask Reserve G-S-
M (Adelaida District). There’s a savory
roasted-meat quality to the nose of this blend of
68% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre and 12% Syrah
that also offers crushed riverstone, a touch of violet
and coffee-syrup scents. The hefty, meaty character
carries right into the palate that is thick in body,
chalky with structure and redolent in roasted blackberry
and tangy elderberry fruit. —M.K.
abv: 15.1% Price: $48
92
Ascension Cellars 2013 Testament (Paso
Robles). This hearty blend of Cabernet Sauvignon,
Petit Verdot, Merlot, Malbec and Cab Franc
shows dried strawberry, fresh olallieberry, leather
and hints of vanilla and cola on the nose. A strong
peppery spice runs throughout the very focused,
structurally driven palate, with flavors of roastedbeef
crust, pencil lead, cedar and light incense.
—M.K.
abv: 13.8% Price: $86
92
Baker & Brain 2013 Pendulum (Monterey
County). A savory rather than fruity blend
of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache, this bottling
offers black pepper, anise and light violet alongside
boysenberry and elderberry fruit on the nose. The
palate tightens up into underripe cherry, thyme,
marjoram and bay leaf, with very dry elderberry
fruit tones. —M.K.
abv: 14.8% Price: $35
92
Blackbird Vineyards 2014 Arise Proprietary
(Napa Valley). This blends 38% Merlot
with 32% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet
Franc. Together these find a healthy companionship
of wood, cedar, currant and dried herb, allowing the
two Cabernets to speak loudest. Lightly spicy nutmeg
and clove linger around well-defined layers of
cherry and vanilla. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $54
92
Caliza 2013 Azimuth (Paso Robles Willow
Creek District). Plump blueberries and
blackberries meet with a little bit of red cherry on
this blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Mourvèdre and
20% Syrah that also features light baking spice and
white pepper on the nose. It’s fat on the palate, with
blueberry sauce and black cherry. It delivers grippy
tannins, great peppery spice and tons of nutmeg on
the finish. —M.K.
abv: 15.5% Price: $58
92
Freakshow 2014 Red (Lodi). For full review
see page 10. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 15% Price: $20
92
Grassini 2013 Articondo (Happy Canyon of
Santa Barbara). Named after the family’s
grandfather, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot and Petit Verdot is still young, but quite
delicious and elegant. Aromas of lava rock, dust
and cracked earth meet with black-plum fruit on
the nose. The palate is framed by sticky tannins,
offering concentrated elderberry, rose petal, lilac,
incense and wet-riverstone flavors. It has great
potential for long aging. —M.K.
abv: 14.6% Price: $45
92
Jarvis 2010 Lake William (Napa Valley).
This estate wine made of 36% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 32% Cabernet Franc, 27% Merlot and
5% Petit Verdot spent nearly two years in all-new
French oak. Time has elevated its sanguine, herbaceous
characteristics, melding them within a context
of graceful softness dotted in black pepper,
black olive and meat. —V.B.
abv: 13.8% Price: $170
92
Lost Blues 2013 Good Fences Syrah-Grenache
(Santa Maria Valley). Emerging winemaker
Giovanni Grandinetti is one to watch. In this bottling
he blends co-fermented lots of 60% Syrah
and 40% Grenache from Bien Nacido and Murmur
vineyards to produce aromas reminiscent of venison
in a rainbow peppercorn glaze, with touches
of tar and crushed graphite. The palate is likewise
quite gamy and tarry, with dried beef and teriyaki
touches. —M.K.
abv: 16.1% Price: $42
92
Sidebar 2014 Rhôneish (Redwood Valley).
With an aroma like sweet vermouth and
rich, chocolaty, smoky flavors, this Rhône-style
blend exerts an exotic influence on the palate. The
mouthfeel is smooth and graceful, with mild tannins,
while the lingering finish echoes opulent fruit
and spice notes. The winemaker used 48% Mourvèdre
and lesser amounts of Grenache and Syrah. Editors’
Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $27
92
Yao Family Wines 2014 Napa Crest (Napa
Valley). For full review see page 13.
abv: 14.1% Price: $48
92
Ziata 2013 Mia Madre (Napa Valley). This
red blend relies mostly on Cabernet Sauvignon,
adding smaller amounts of Malbec, Cabernet
Franc and Petit Verdot. Soft, spicy and impressively
lengthy, it’s highlighted in blackberry, currant and
toasty oak, concentrated and complex. —V.B.
abv: 14.9% Price: $100
91
Bianchi 2012 Syranot Pinot Noir-Syrah-Petite
Sirah (Central Coast). For full review see page
13.
abv: 15.3% Price: $26
91
Buck Shack 2013 Red (Lake County). This
bold, densely flavored and impressively tannic
wine is dry, very well structured and will be
interesting to age until 2018–2019. It smells darkly
fruity, smoky and spicy, and tastes like cranberry
and black cherry, finishing with a firm tang of tannin.
It will be best after 2018. Cellar Selection.
—J.G.
abv: 14.8% Price: $30
91
Hunter DeHaven 2011 Collusion (California).
Meaty, smoky aromas and equally meaty,
smoky, peppery flavors give an untamed personality
to this full-bodied blend made with Syrah,
Petite Sirah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and a touch of
Viognier. An emphasis on savory elements clearly
separates it from the pack of simply fruity wines, so
it’s a fun little adventure in a bottle. —J.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25
91
Luke Donald 2012 LDC (Napa Valley). Merlot
and Cabernet Sauvignon are equally represented
in this soft, robust blend that also includes
smaller amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
Juicy blackberry and plum combine with dusty,
integrated tannin, as a length of dark cherry and
sage weave in and out. —V.B.
abv: 14.4% Price: $42
91
Lynch Wines 2014 Lucky Cash (Sierra Foothills).
Savory, smoky, sagey and floral, this
wild and remarkable rendition of a Rhône-style
blend is made from 50% Mourvèdre plus Syrah,
Grenache and Counoise. Aromas recall grilled herbs
and stewed berries, while flavors bring out sour
cherry, chocolate and beef broth. It’s full in body,
with a firm and tannic texture. —J.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25
91
Marietta Cellars NV Christo Lot Number 3
(North Coast). Dark, dense, rich and spicy,
this Rhône-style blend is impressively delicious.
Full bodied, it’s saturated with blackberry, cinnamon
and black-pepper flavors supported by finegrained
tannins. While it packs a punch, it is well
balanced for a big, assertive wine, and will be best
after 2019. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 15.3% Price: $20
91
Naggiar 2014 Dahlia Noir (Sierra Foothills).
A very dark color, tons of ripe fruit aromas
and abundant black-fruit flavors give a lot of wallop
to this full-bodied but not overly sweet or fat
Rhône-style blend. Ripe blackberry, stewed plum
and a touch of smoke hang on a big structure of firm
tannins and good acidity. It will be best after 2019,
but it’s difficult not to drink up at this price. Editors’
Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.2% Price: $16
91
Ramey 2014 Claret (Napa Valley). This is one
of the producer’s deepest value propositions,
a well-made, robustly approachable and accessible
wine made from 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24%
Merlot, 7% Malbec, 3% Syrah, 2% Petit Verdot and
1% Cabernet Franc. Soft and firmly integrated, it’s
perfumed and floral, with layers of dark cherry and
tobacco that evolve with grace in the glass. Editors’
Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $40
38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017