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92<br />

Château des Jacques 2015 Fleurie. Wines<br />

from this great producer have developed a<br />

tendency towards too much alcohol for a wine from<br />

Beaujolais. It is a shame because otherwise this is a<br />

generous structured cru wine that is finely balanced.<br />

With tannins and delicious acidity, the wine is ready<br />

to develop further. Drink from 2018. Kobrand. —R.V.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $25<br />

92<br />

Domaine des Marrans 2015 Fleurie. This cru<br />

is a solid wine. It has a dense structure spearheaded<br />

by the tannins and lifted by acidity. Black<br />

plum and berry fruits are still developing behind the<br />

firm facade. It will take some time to develop, so wait<br />

until early 2019. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $25<br />

92<br />

Stéphane Aviron 2014 Domaine de la<br />

Madrière (Fleurie). From a family-owned cru<br />

vineyard. Stéphane Aviron has produced an impressive,<br />

ripe and dense wine. It has great swathes of<br />

black fruit and generous acidity. The tannins, still<br />

young, are a background to this delicious fruitiness.<br />

Drink from 2020. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.<br />

—R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $24<br />

91<br />

Château de Fleurie 2015 Fleurie. With vineyards<br />

spread across the top sectors of the<br />

Fleurie cru, this wine is fruity and structured at the<br />

same time. It has a dry core that is surrounded by<br />

ripe berry fruits that also hint at black cherry. The<br />

wine needs time to soften, so drink from 2018. David<br />

Bowler Wine. —R.V.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $22<br />

91<br />

Domaine Chignard 2015 Les Moriers (Fleurie).<br />

This single vineyard wine comes from a steep<br />

parcel that is wedged between crus Fleurie and<br />

Moulin-à-Vent. It is deliciously packed with crisp<br />

cherry fruits and fine acidity. At the same time, it is<br />

structured, solid and with a core of tannins. It is a<br />

wine that will age for a while longer, so drink from<br />

late 2017. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $26<br />

91<br />

Domaine du Vissoux 2015 Poncié (Fleurie).<br />

One of a series of single parcel wines from<br />

the Chermette family estate, this is dark and rich. It<br />

has generous tannins alongside the dark cherry and<br />

plum fruit. The cru wine’s structure and richness<br />

will allow it to age. Drink from 2018. Weygandt-<br />

Metzler. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />

91<br />

Stéphane Aviron 2015 Domaine de la Madrière<br />

(Fleurie). This wine is packed with cheerful<br />

red fruits that are given a more serious edge by<br />

the tannic structure and acidity,. With its touch of<br />

pepper and minerality, it will age well over the next<br />

two years. The cru wine comes from a family-owned<br />

property on steep slopes. Frederick Wildman &<br />

Sons, Ltd. —R.V.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $24<br />

91<br />

Trenel Fils 2015 Fleurie. This is a complex cru<br />

wine that has ripe fruits, firm tannins and a<br />

good ageworthy structure. It has a dense texture,<br />

rich black-cherry fruits and a finish that brings out<br />

crisp acidity. Produced by this Beaujolais-based<br />

negociant, the wine will be ready to drink from the<br />

end of 2017. Terlato Wines International. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $26<br />

90<br />

Domaine de Bel Air 2015 Granits Rosés (Fleurie).<br />

Annick and Jean-Marc Lafont’s three<br />

acres on the slopes below the chapel of la Madone<br />

give a firm and concentrated cru wine that will repay<br />

aging. There are layers of red-berry fruits that are<br />

cut with solid tannins and a dry core. The wine will<br />

age, so drink from 2018. Vigneron Imports. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $21<br />

90<br />

Georges Duboeuf 2015 Domaine des Quatres<br />

Vents (Fleurie). Owned by the Darroze family,<br />

the cru wine from this estate is produced by<br />

Georges Duboeuf. It is a dense wine with balancing<br />

rich black fruits. Its spicy cherry-fruit flavor and<br />

rich tannins give a wine that should age further.<br />

Drink from 2018. Quintessential Wines. —R.V.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $22<br />

90<br />

Joseph Drouhin 2015 Hospices de Belleville<br />

(Fleurie). Three parcels, totaling 16 acres<br />

from the Hospices de Belleville estate, provide the<br />

fruit for this wine. Wood aged and rich, the wine<br />

is fruity, packed with generous red-cherry flavors.<br />

There are concentration and some dark tannins as<br />

well as fine fruitiness and acidity. Drink this wine<br />

from 2018. This is Drouhin’s second vintage making<br />

wine in partnership with the Hospices de Belleville<br />

charity. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13%<br />

Price: $NA<br />

89<br />

Domaine de Gry-Sablon 2015 Vieilles Vignes<br />

(Fleurie). Owner Dominique Morel has produced<br />

a firmly structured wine that wraps firm tannins<br />

and red-cherry fruits into a crisp parcel. It is<br />

still young, bursting with fruitiness. Drink this cru<br />

wine now for its fruit, but it’s better to wait until<br />

the end of 2017. Terlato Wines International. —R.V.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $26<br />

89<br />

Georges Duboeuf 2015 La Madone (Fleurie).<br />

The wine comes from the La Madone<br />

vineyard just below the small chapel on the hill<br />

in Fleurie. It is a solid cru wine, with tannins and<br />

dark-berry fruits as well as acidity. There is a strong<br />

mineral element here, along with concentration and<br />

the ability to age. Drink from mid-2017. Quintessential<br />

Wines. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $20<br />

88<br />

Georges Duboeuf 2015 Flower Label (Fleurie).<br />

A floral wine, full of ripe black-cherry<br />

fruit and with a firm structure that sustains the<br />

wine. This cru wine is rich, still developing, still<br />

with enough tannins and acidity to allow it to age<br />

further. Drink this attractive wine from mid-2017.<br />

Quintessential Wines. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $20<br />

88<br />

Henry Fessy 2015 Château des Labourons<br />

(Fleurie). The estate is located to the north<br />

west of the village of Fleurie, further into the hills.<br />

The wine is structured and tannic with layers of red<br />

berries and tight acidity. It will need to soften for a<br />

few months, so drink from late 2017. Louis Latour<br />

Inc. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $224<br />

88<br />

Pardon et Fils 2015 Domaine Pardon Vieilles<br />

Vignes (Fleurie). Based in the village<br />

of Beaujeu, this producer has made a dense wine<br />

that needs time for the fruits to develop. It is juicy<br />

with acidity that is beginning to show through the<br />

tannins. Give this cru wine time and drink starting<br />

from 2018. Lionstone International. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $25<br />

87<br />

Georges Duboeuf 2015 Clos des Quatres<br />

Vents (Fleurie). This is a family-owned<br />

estate whose wines is made by Georges Duboeuf.<br />

It is structured and firmly concentrated, more tannin<br />

than fruit. That gives the wine a lean character<br />

that seems to miss out on fleshy and fruit. Give it a<br />

little time and drink from late 2017. Quintessential<br />

Wines. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $20<br />

90<br />

CHIROUBLES<br />

Domaine Cheysson 2015 Chiroubles. From<br />

one of the leading estates in this cru appellation,<br />

the wine is structured and firm and likely to<br />

age well. With black cherry and red-currant fruits<br />

it is crisp although with its solid texture it should<br />

broaden out. Drink this wine from 2018. Queen of<br />

Wines LLC. —R.V.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $22<br />

89<br />

Château de Javernand 2015 Indigène (Chiroubles).<br />

Produced using natural indigenous<br />

yeasts, the wine is rich and firmly structured.<br />

It has dark tannins as well as generous black-cherry<br />

fruits. The wine is serious and complex without losing<br />

the cool, mineral texture of the cru appellation.<br />

Drink from 2017. Sierra Nevada Imports. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $26<br />

89<br />

Château de Javernand 2015 Vieilles Vignes<br />

(Chiroubles). From the oldest vines on the<br />

estate, this is a rich and full-bodied wine. It has<br />

plenty of the bright, full concentration that comes<br />

from old vines. At the same time it has attractive<br />

layers of ripe plum and blackberry fruits. Let this<br />

cru wine age a little and drink from 2018. Sierra<br />

Nevada Imports. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />

89<br />

Domaine de la Combe au Loup 2015 Chiroubles.<br />

With its high elevation, it is logical<br />

WINEMAG.COM | 71

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