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has labeled with the new Los Olivos District appellation.
Tart plum skins and elderberry show on
the sip that is structured by solidly dry tannins
accented by flavors of lavender and thyme. —M.K.
abv: 14.4% Price: $46
93
Rendarrio Vineyards 2013 The Lost Ones
Syrah (Santa Barbara County). A very rich
nose offers blackberry syrup, crème de cassis,
crushed pepper, lilac, light asphalt and soy sauce
on this bottling by Ryan Render. The palate is well
integrated, with black cherry and black plum enlivened
by licorice, crushed marjoram and cinnamon
that lead into ginger snaps and a milk-chocolate finish.
—M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $34
93
Stolpman 2014 Estate Grown Syrah (Ballard
Canyon). Dark aromas of black currant and
black olive meet with charred beef and supple herbs
of dill and anise on this wine’s excellent nose. The
sip is very full and hefty in body, allied with a juicy
acidity and fruity character of concentrated blackberry
that’s imminently appealing. More elegant
touches of lavender, rosemary and incense round
out the palate. —M.K.
abv: 14.1% Price: $30
92
Eberle 2014 Steinbeck Vineyard Syrah (Paso
Robles). For full review see page 9.
abv: 15% Price: $28
92
Lynch Wines 2013 Strummer Syrah (Sierra
Foothills). Concentrated, well structured
and not too full bodied, this is an almost architectural
wine in how it fills out the palate and clings
to the taste buds. It has an appetizing texture due
to fine-grained tannins, a sense of ripeness without
overripeness, plus deep and layered fruit, coffee and
black-pepper nuances. —J.G.
abv: 14.7% Price: $25
92
Nelle 2014 Syrah (California). Blackberry
and ripe elderberry meet with white pepper
and thyme on the nose of this bottling by winemaker
Tyler Russell. It’s soft and syrupy on the
sip, with rich blueberry, blackberry and a touch of
kirsch made more interesting by a hint of anise and
mint on the finish. —M.K.
abv: 15.8% Price: $36
92
Stolpman 2014 Hilltops Syrah (Ballard Canyon).
Deep notes of elderberry and pepper
meet with roasted lamb on the somewhat reductive
nose of this bottling. The structure is a bit rigid at
this early date, giving a lengthy frame to flavors of
deep purple fruit, brown baking spices and a touch
of vanilla. —M.K.
abv: 14.1% Price: $48
91
Beckmen 2013 Block Six Purisima Mountain
Vineyard Syrah (Ballard Canyon). Deeply
concentrated mulberry, fig and violet aromas arise
alongside black pepper, roast beef and lavender on
this classically styled bottling from a small part of
the Beckmen family’s mountaintop vineyard. Flavors
are elegantly layered, with dark olallieberry
fruit, roasted fennel and gingerbread spice. —M.K.
abv: 15.3% Price: $60
91
J. Lohr 2014 Estates South Ridge Syrah (Paso
Robles). For full review see page 21. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5% Price: $15
90
Foxen 2014 Toasted Rope Syrah (Santa
Ynez Valley). Rustic aromas of blackberry,
leather, pepper, dried violet and a light tar show on
the nose of this appellation-blend bottling. Cocoa
and dark elderberry appear on the sip, along with
dried herb. It’s a light style of Syrah, but vibrant and
versatile. —M.K.
abv: 14.4% Price: $44
89
Malibu 2014 Syrah (California). There is a
lot of promise in this bottling from a single
vineyard 1,200 feet above the Malibu coast. Baked
blackberry, red plum and sultry strawberry notes
appear alongside savory roasted beef and herbs.
There’s enough pepper on the palate to indicate
Syrah, but the fruit is lighter than usual, with
bramble and raspberry lifted by touches of fennel
and dill. —M.K.
abv: 14.6% Price: $30
89
Pianetta 2013 Syrah (Monterey). This bottling
is fresh and herbal on the nose, with
sagebrush, charcoal and charred lamb aromas as
well as a touch of red fruit. Dried oregano and marjoram
mix with pepper, charred beef and rosemary
on the palate. —M.K.
abv: 14.4% Price: $32
88
Rideau 2014 Thompson Vineyard Syrah
(Santa Barbara County). Bright purple
flowers, boysenberries, tar and a waxy, fruit-coating
aroma show on the nose of this bottling from a
vineyard near Los Alamos that is known for Rhône
varietals. Tart boysenberry, plum, raspberry and
elderberry appear on the sip, which is strong in
acidity. Touches of white pepper, oregano, anise and
charcoal accent the finish. —M.K.
abv: 15.1% Price: $39
87
Rideau 2014 Estate Syrah (Los Olivos District).
Baked red cherry, crushed clove, iron
and rose petals make for standard aromas on this
bottling, although they are fairly light and simple
here. There is a sizzle of acitity on the palate, where
juicy strawberry and olallieberry flavors are easy to
enjoy, made more complex by graphite and cedar
touches. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $44
94
GRENACHE
Hecho por Ruben 2012 Kimsey Vineyard
Grenache (Ballard Canyon). Ruben “The
Grape Whisperer” Solorzano leaves the vineyard to
try his hand in the cellar, and the results are magical.
Deep rose and fresh lilac aromas make for an
extreme florality, followed by blackberry and blackplum
scents. Purple flowers also show on the palate,
where a nice sizzle of acidity unleashes candied
grape flavors and a spicy pepper element. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $55
94
Nelle 2014 Grenache (California). For full
review see page 5.
abv: 15.2% Price: $36
92
Cordant 2014 Wills hills Vineyard Grenache
(Paso Robles). This is not a dainty Grenache,
with boysenberry syrup, purple flowers,
vanilla, clove cream and Christmas spices redolent
on the nose. It’s rich on the palate, with blackberry
syrup, baked blueberry and vanilla, but also reflective
of the variety, with violet, clove, pepper and a
touch of asphalt. —M.K.
abv: 15.5% Price: $42
91
Herman Story 2013 On the Road Grenache
(California). This is a hearty and quite delicious
wine, although nuances of the Grenache grape
are overshadowed by richness. Roasted duck, bacon
fat, smoked pork loin and freshly sliced filet mignon
show on the nose, with violet and blueberry-syrup
touches. The palate offers licorice, pepper, blueberry
sauce and a very soft texture. —M.K.
abv: 16.1% Price: $48
91
Parducci 2014 Reserve Grenache (Mendocino).
For full review see page 15. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5% Price: $27
89
Iron Hub 2013 Estate Bottled Grenache
(Shenandoah Valley). Very tasty, this fullbodied
but not heavy wine has an earthy, iron-y vein
running through ripe fruit and black-pepper flavors,
giving it unusual complexity. The balance is good,
lending a smooth but lively feeling on the palate.
—J.G.
abv: 14.9% Price: $25
88
Rideau 2014 Estate Grenache (Los Olivos
District). Quite light in the glass, the aromas
on this bottling are also a bit weak, with cinnamon
and red fruits emerging with patience. It’s
light and lithe on the palate, with candied cherry,
rose petals and tons of cracked pepper making for a
lengthy, grippy sip. —M.K.
abv: 15% Price: $38
84
Jaxon Keys 2013 Estate Ravazzi Vineyard
Grenache (Mendocino). An unsual combination
of almost-sweet fruit flavors and a vivid vegetal
element makes this full-bodied, rustic wine an outlier.
—J.G.
abv: 14.9% Price: $26
91
BARBERA
High Valley 2013 Barbera (High Valley). This
wine from a small, high-elevation district
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