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finish is long and very moreish. Skurnik Wines, Inc.
—A.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
94
Bründlmayer 2015 Käferberg Reserve Grüner
Veltliner (Kamptal). Yeasty savoriness on
the nose conjures up salty hints of miso and soy,
alluringly so. The palate is even more salty and
expressive, with waves of tingling white pepper.
The fruit that lurks through is of green Conference
pear and more greenish savor: think nettle and
lovage, even watercress. A lemony fillip provides a
fresh backbone. What a joy to drink. Lovely now
but built to last. Drink 2017–2025. Terry Theise
Estate Selections. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $70
94
Eder 2015 Süssenberg Grüner Veltliner Smaragd
(Wachau). Beautifully pure notions of
sun-ripened mirabelle plum appear on the nose,
edged with aromatic hints of ivy and herb. The palate
makes the fine ripe fruit even more distinct,
presenting it on a concentrated body made taut by
clearly delineated, lively citrus freshness. This is
pristine and beautiful, lasting and impressive. The
finish shines with the expressive purity. Slocum &
Sons, Inc. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $29
94
Eichinger 2015 Ried Gaisberg Reserve Grüner
Veltliner (Kamptal). A wonderfully intense
nose speaks of yarrow and moss, mirabelle plums
and lifted, invigorating freshness. The palate fizzes
away with flavor and excitement. This is a very lively,
concentrated wine that flirts with us right now but
has its real treasure of fruit still buried in its deep
core. This will blossom with bottle age: Right now,
the zesty tangerine peel flavors merely hint at the
pleasures to come. Drink 2020–2030. Weygandt-
Metzler. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $29
94
Eichinger 2015 Ried Lamm Reserve Grüner
Veltliner (Kamptal). Beautiful savoriness
rises from the glass—pepper and yeast, but also
something of pine and watercress. The palate swings
with all of these flavors and embeds them on a rich
cushion of gentle fruit: ripe yellow pear and juicy
yellow plum. The white pepper always edges its
way in and tempers the generosity of the fruit. This
simply is gorgeous and very moreish. Weygandt-
Metzler. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $43
94
Loimer 2015 Käferberg Grüner Veltliner
(Kamptal). A wonderfully funky notion of
yeast precedes the full ripe yellow plum fruit on
the nose and segues into a salty, spicy and peppery
palate. Concentration and flavor reverberate with
a lemony citrus zing. A great varietal expression
of Grüner’s dual spice and fruit nature in an elegant
package with lots of drive. Craft + Estate–The
Winebow Group. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $60
94
Loimer 2015 Spiegel Grüner Veltliner
(Kamptal). There is something juicy on
the nose that suggests freshly cut apple and pear.
The palate is rich with these flavors but something
mellow, savory and yeasty cuts in that is reminiscent
of miso and soy, adding interest and above all
spice. The palate veers between fruit and spice but
is united by bright lemony freshness. The lasting
savoriness is testament to this wine’s concentration
and balance. Craft + Estate–The Winebow Group.
—A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $60
94
Schloss Gobelsburg 2015 Ried Lamm Grüner
Veltliner (Kamptal). There is something of
the summer meadow about this—the scent of yarrow
combines with sun-ripened stone fruit. The
lightness of touch is amazing: It tiptoes on the
tongue but sprays with peppery freshness and lemon
poise. What a lovely, balanced and light-footed joy.
The long finish of yeasty spicy savor shows off the
serious core of this wine. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $54
94
Schloss Gobelsburg 2015 Ried Renner Grüner
Veltliner (Kamptal). Notions of ripe stone
fruit are tempered by the herbal savor of arugula
and watercress. There is something incredibly ripe
at play, combined with something incredibly fresh.
There also is a lightness of touch and a limpid intensity.
The palate displays all of these things and adds
a salty moreish element of yeast. What a wonderful,
authentic expression of Grüner. Bravo! Skurnik
Wines, Inc. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $34
94
Tegernseerhof 2015 Loibenberg Grüner Veltliner
Smaragd (Wachau). The tanginess of
grapefruit peel, paired with very ripe Bosc pear, is
already apparent on the nose before becoming fullblown
on the palate. There is concentration and precision.
The ripeness of this vintage is nicely corralled
and held in check by citrus freshness and countered
by yeasty richness and spice. The finish is gloriously
enlivening, fresh and moreish. KWSelection.com.
—A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $39
93
Allram 2015 Gaisberg Grüner Veltliner
(Kamptal). The very gentle but seductive
notion of sun-ripened red-cheeked mirabelle plums
radiates like sunshine from the glass. With a further
sniff there also is peppery greenery: yarrow and hay.
The palate also unites this friendly fruit with the
savory spice of these herbs and comes in a lightfooted,
compact and fresh package that just dances
on the tongue. This is deceptively frivolous Grüner
with a seriously delicious concentrated core. Vias
Imports. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $28
93
Allram 2015 Renner Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal).
The lifted nose promises purity, which
the palate follows thorough on, with the gentle
fruit of ripe pear and mirabelle plum and the softer
freshness of ripe lemon. There is just a smattering
of white pepper. All is held with great poise and
freshness, and there is something utterly clean and
pure about this. Vias Imports. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $31
93
Anton Bauer 2015 Grande Reserve Grüner
Veltliner (Wagram). Soft vanilla hints of oak
creep into the mossy aromatic hints of green and
yellow pear. There also is a generous core of ripe
fruit, almost reminiscent of lychee. While this is
fresh with citrus, the deep mellowness and gliding
fluidity of the palate will win you over. The finish is
clean and lasting. KWSelection.com. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $49
93
Anton Bauer 2015 Rosenberg Alte Reben
Grüner Veltliner (Wagram). The nose wants
to reveal next to nothing of this rich complex wine,
but the palate hints at future glory. This is as tightly
closed as a firm fist, but the rich fluidity of the palate
is undeniable. There are glimpses of juicy yellow
pear while dark flinty spice thunders in the
background. Drink 2018–2025. KWSelection.com.
—A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $39
93
Bernhard Ott 2015 Rosenberg Grüner Veltliner
(Wagram). This radiates fragrance and
spice: ferns and pepper, yeast and juicy, yellow pear,
mirabelle plums and aloe vera. All of this is on both
the nose and the palate and is combined in a harmonious,
balanced parcel of rounded goodness. It
treads a fine line between opulence and freshness
but does not stray from its perfect high wire act.
Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $67
93
Bründlmayer 2015 Alte Reben Reserve Grüner
Veltliner (Kamptal). Funky yeast still holds
sway on the nose. Underneath that are notions of
ripe juicy pear and a soft hint of vanilla. The palate
strikes a sonorous balance between smoky vanilla
and gently peppered pears. There is concentration
and promise. The finish is nutty and very long. This
is still tightly closed and needs to unfurl, but will
become a great gastronomic wine. Drink 2019–
2025. Terry Theise Estate Selections. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $50
93
Bründlmayer 2015 Lamm Reserve Grüner
Veltliner (Kamptal). There is a distinct
nutty smoky impression on the nose. The concentrated
palate also comes with shades of vanilla and
hazelnut, wrapping its fresh lemon and herbal spice
into a warming intriguing cloak. It is the purity of
the lemon that shines and lasts longest on the palate.
This may be a bit young to drink now, so be
patient and drink 2020–2030. Terry Theise Estate
Selections. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $80
93
Bründlmayer 2015 Vincents Spiegel Reserve
Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). A haze of hazelnut
and wood smoke envelopes the poised concen-
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