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BUYINGGUIDE<br />

are refreshing, it finishes on slightly bitter tones of<br />

sap and resin. Drink now through 2019. —A.I.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $22<br />

88<br />

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO<br />

Thirsty Owl Wine Company 2015 Pinot Gris<br />

(Finger Lakes). Pristinely fresh apple and<br />

pears are cutting and crisp in this dry Pinot Gris.<br />

Texturally, it’s luscious and expansive, yet maintains<br />

a keen balance of acidity as well as a crisp mineral<br />

finish. Enjoy now through 2019. —A.I.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $15<br />

88<br />

Ventosa 2015 Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes).<br />

Fresh apple, lemon and pear flavors are<br />

accented by a hint of smoked nuts in this bold, fullbodied<br />

Pinot Gris. Rich and a bit creamy in mouthfeel<br />

yet balanced briskly, it’s a satisfying white with<br />

wide pairing appeal. Drink now through 2019. —A.I.<br />

abv: 13.6% Price: $18<br />

87<br />

Martha Clara 2015 Island Series Pinot Grigio<br />

(North Fork of Long Island). Hints of caramelized<br />

sugar lend warmth to this fresh fruity wine<br />

full of nectarine and grapefruit flavors. It’s rich in<br />

body with a luscious, mouthfilling cling off set by<br />

sunny tangerine acidity. Enjoy now through 2018.<br />

—A.I.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $22<br />

86<br />

Billsboro 2015 Sawmill Creek Vineyards Pinot<br />

Gris (Finger Lakes). Savory, smoky tones<br />

lend a shadowy feel to fresh apple and pear flavors<br />

in this dry medium-bodied Pinot Gris. It’s not deeply<br />

concentrated in fruit but refreshing and easy going.<br />

Drink now through 2018. —A.I.<br />

abv: 12.6% Price: $16<br />

86<br />

Glenora 2015 Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes).<br />

Zesty red apple and lemon notes are marked<br />

by touches of smoke and nuts in this easygoing<br />

Pinot Gris. Dry in style, it’s not deeply concentrated<br />

on the palate but refreshingly citrusy. The finish is<br />

brisk and clean. —A.I.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $15<br />

90<br />

GEWÜRZTRAMINER<br />

Standing Stone 2015 Gewürztraminer (Finger<br />

Lakes). Bursts of fresh lychee and pink<br />

grapefruit are tinged with lemongrass and rose petals<br />

on the nose of this classically perfumed Gewürztraminer.<br />

It’s bold in body and alcohol, and a bit<br />

dense in mouthfeel, yet balanced tautly with zesty<br />

acidity and a shimmer of salty mineral on the finish.<br />

It’s a lovely wine now but should hold nicely till at<br />

least 2021. —A.I.<br />

abv: 13.7% Price: $19<br />

89<br />

Treleaven 2013 Gewurztraminer (Finger<br />

Lakes). From delicate grapefruit to lychee<br />

and guava, fruit flavors gain concentration from<br />

nose to palate in this rich almost tropical Gewürztraminer.<br />

Bold and lusciously textured, it’s slightly<br />

warming on the palate yet balanced, finishing with<br />

sizzles of spice and lemon-lime acidity. Drink now<br />

through 2020. —A.I.<br />

abv: 13.9% Price: $17<br />

88<br />

Lamoreaux Landing 2015 Gewürztraminer<br />

(Finger Lakes). Voluptuous and a bit<br />

brawny, this ebulliently perfumed Gewürztraminer<br />

is hardly a wall flower. It’s lavishly fruity, bursting<br />

of sun-kissed grapefruit, lychee and white-peach<br />

flavors. Yielding acidity and a richly dense mouthfilling<br />

texture leave a lingering kiss of warmth on<br />

the finish. Drink now through 2019. —A.I.<br />

abv: 13.9% Price: $15<br />

87<br />

Thirsty Owl Wine Company 2015 Gewürztraminer<br />

(Finger Lakes). While ripe nectarine<br />

and grapefruit notes are bold on the nose, the palate<br />

of this medium-bodied Gewürztraminer is a<br />

bit demure. It’s a refreshing easy-drinking white,<br />

however, offering delicate hints of lychee, citrus and<br />

guava flavor. Drink now through 2019. —A.I.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $19<br />

85<br />

Rooster Hill 2015 Estate Gewürztraminer<br />

(Finger Lakes). While grapefruit and lychee<br />

aromas are fresh and clean on the nose, the palate of<br />

this full-bodied Gewürztraminer is a bit muted by<br />

comparison. It’s texturally rich, but flavors suggest<br />

pressed apple and pear accented by hints of ginger<br />

and spice. Drink now through 2018. —A.I.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $18<br />

88<br />

GRÜNER VELTLINER<br />

Dr. Konstantin Frank 2015 Grüner Veltliner<br />

(Finger Lakes). Asian pear and white-grapefruit<br />

notes are cutting and spry from nose to palate<br />

in this light-footed Grüner Veltliner. While delicate<br />

in concentration, invigorating acidity and brisk texture<br />

invigorate the palate. A hint of smoke meanders<br />

through a long finish. Drink now through 2019. —A.I.<br />

abv: 12% Price: $15<br />

88<br />

Fulkerson 2014 William Vigne Grüner Veltliner<br />

(Seneca Lake). Wisps of green herb<br />

and alpine breeze lend a cool refreshing tone to this<br />

zesty Grüner Veltliner. While delicate in body and<br />

concentration, it’s spry lime and grapefruit flavors<br />

are invigorating. Drink now through 2019. —A.I.<br />

abv: 12% Price: $14<br />

88<br />

One Woman 2015 Grüner Veltliner (North<br />

Fork of Long Island). Dusty mineral tones<br />

accent fresh apple, pear and green plum in this fullbodied<br />

Grüner Veltliner. Its rippling mouthfilling<br />

texture is pleasing, offset pertly by zesty lime acidity<br />

on the finish. Enjoy now through 2019. —A.I.<br />

abv: 13.1% Price: $25<br />

86<br />

Lamoreaux Landing 2015 Grüner Veltliner<br />

(Finger Lakes). Delicate but savory apple<br />

and pear aromas extend to the palate of this bigbodied<br />

Grüner Veltliner. While texturally bold, dense<br />

even, the palate is anchored neatly by brisk acidity.<br />

Fruit flavors are not deeply concentrated but it’s a<br />

satisfyingly rich wine to enjoy now through 2018.<br />

—A.I.<br />

abv: 13.2% Price: $20<br />

90<br />

RIESLING<br />

Heron Hill 2014 Reserve Riesling (Finger<br />

Lakes). Crushed minerals and pristine<br />

white-grapefruit and green-plum flavors mingle<br />

gorgeously throughout this revitalizing Riesling. It’s<br />

zesty and spry but has a rounded, slightly yielding<br />

mouthfeel. The finish wraps up quite dry. Drink<br />

now through 2021. —A.I.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $25<br />

89<br />

Glenora 2015 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes).<br />

A hint of lemongrass lends complexity to<br />

fresh lime, lemon and green plum in this revitalizing<br />

dry Riesling. It’s light as a feather in texture yet<br />

concentrated in flavor. Crushed mineral tones linger<br />

on the finish. Drink now through 2020. —A.I.<br />

abv: 11% Price: $15<br />

88<br />

Atwater 2014 Riesling (Finger Lakes). While<br />

the nose suggests more dusty mineral than<br />

fruit, the palate of this off-dry Riesling offers loads<br />

of concentrated tangerine, lemon and apple flavors.<br />

It’s juicy and ripe yet keenly balanced by a penetrating<br />

backbone of lemon-lime acidity. Drink now<br />

through 2021. —A.I.<br />

abv: 10.1% Price: $16<br />

88<br />

Heron Hill 2015 Ingle Vineyard Riesling (Finger<br />

Lakes). A wisp of bramble extends a<br />

savory tone from nose to finish on this otherwise<br />

bright bristling wine. Delicate honey tones register<br />

as off dry on the palate but balance neatly alongside<br />

flavors of freshly pressed apples and pears. The finish<br />

is marked by a touch of pencil lead. Drink now<br />

through 2020. —A.I.<br />

abv: 12% Price: $20<br />

88<br />

Wagner 2015 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes).<br />

Fresh and fragrant, this apple-scented<br />

Riesling offers loads of brisk lemon-lime flavors<br />

augmented by a subtle vein of smoke. Dry in style,<br />

it’s delicately textured with a lean, slightly cutting<br />

demeanor. Drink now through 2020. —A.I.<br />

abv: 12.3% Price: $15<br />

87<br />

240 Days 2015 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Waxy<br />

citrus skins and pressed apple notes are<br />

accented by a whiff of pine in this racy light-footed<br />

Riesling. It’s just a shade off dry, with an invigoratingly<br />

brisk texture. Drink now through 2019. —A.I.<br />

abv: 11% Price: $28<br />

87<br />

Barnstormer 2014 N6679P Riesling (Finger<br />

Lakes). Veins of smoke and petrol thread<br />

through layers of pressed apple, pear and tangerine<br />

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017

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