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BUYINGGUIDE<br />
are refreshing, it finishes on slightly bitter tones of<br />
sap and resin. Drink now through 2019. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $22<br />
88<br />
PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO<br />
Thirsty Owl Wine Company 2015 Pinot Gris<br />
(Finger Lakes). Pristinely fresh apple and<br />
pears are cutting and crisp in this dry Pinot Gris.<br />
Texturally, it’s luscious and expansive, yet maintains<br />
a keen balance of acidity as well as a crisp mineral<br />
finish. Enjoy now through 2019. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $15<br />
88<br />
Ventosa 2015 Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes).<br />
Fresh apple, lemon and pear flavors are<br />
accented by a hint of smoked nuts in this bold, fullbodied<br />
Pinot Gris. Rich and a bit creamy in mouthfeel<br />
yet balanced briskly, it’s a satisfying white with<br />
wide pairing appeal. Drink now through 2019. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13.6% Price: $18<br />
87<br />
Martha Clara 2015 Island Series Pinot Grigio<br />
(North Fork of Long Island). Hints of caramelized<br />
sugar lend warmth to this fresh fruity wine<br />
full of nectarine and grapefruit flavors. It’s rich in<br />
body with a luscious, mouthfilling cling off set by<br />
sunny tangerine acidity. Enjoy now through 2018.<br />
—A.I.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $22<br />
86<br />
Billsboro 2015 Sawmill Creek Vineyards Pinot<br />
Gris (Finger Lakes). Savory, smoky tones<br />
lend a shadowy feel to fresh apple and pear flavors<br />
in this dry medium-bodied Pinot Gris. It’s not deeply<br />
concentrated in fruit but refreshing and easy going.<br />
Drink now through 2018. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12.6% Price: $16<br />
86<br />
Glenora 2015 Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes).<br />
Zesty red apple and lemon notes are marked<br />
by touches of smoke and nuts in this easygoing<br />
Pinot Gris. Dry in style, it’s not deeply concentrated<br />
on the palate but refreshingly citrusy. The finish is<br />
brisk and clean. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $15<br />
90<br />
GEWÜRZTRAMINER<br />
Standing Stone 2015 Gewürztraminer (Finger<br />
Lakes). Bursts of fresh lychee and pink<br />
grapefruit are tinged with lemongrass and rose petals<br />
on the nose of this classically perfumed Gewürztraminer.<br />
It’s bold in body and alcohol, and a bit<br />
dense in mouthfeel, yet balanced tautly with zesty<br />
acidity and a shimmer of salty mineral on the finish.<br />
It’s a lovely wine now but should hold nicely till at<br />
least 2021. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13.7% Price: $19<br />
89<br />
Treleaven 2013 Gewurztraminer (Finger<br />
Lakes). From delicate grapefruit to lychee<br />
and guava, fruit flavors gain concentration from<br />
nose to palate in this rich almost tropical Gewürztraminer.<br />
Bold and lusciously textured, it’s slightly<br />
warming on the palate yet balanced, finishing with<br />
sizzles of spice and lemon-lime acidity. Drink now<br />
through 2020. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $17<br />
88<br />
Lamoreaux Landing 2015 Gewürztraminer<br />
(Finger Lakes). Voluptuous and a bit<br />
brawny, this ebulliently perfumed Gewürztraminer<br />
is hardly a wall flower. It’s lavishly fruity, bursting<br />
of sun-kissed grapefruit, lychee and white-peach<br />
flavors. Yielding acidity and a richly dense mouthfilling<br />
texture leave a lingering kiss of warmth on<br />
the finish. Drink now through 2019. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $15<br />
87<br />
Thirsty Owl Wine Company 2015 Gewürztraminer<br />
(Finger Lakes). While ripe nectarine<br />
and grapefruit notes are bold on the nose, the palate<br />
of this medium-bodied Gewürztraminer is a<br />
bit demure. It’s a refreshing easy-drinking white,<br />
however, offering delicate hints of lychee, citrus and<br />
guava flavor. Drink now through 2019. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $19<br />
85<br />
Rooster Hill 2015 Estate Gewürztraminer<br />
(Finger Lakes). While grapefruit and lychee<br />
aromas are fresh and clean on the nose, the palate of<br />
this full-bodied Gewürztraminer is a bit muted by<br />
comparison. It’s texturally rich, but flavors suggest<br />
pressed apple and pear accented by hints of ginger<br />
and spice. Drink now through 2018. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $18<br />
88<br />
GRÜNER VELTLINER<br />
Dr. Konstantin Frank 2015 Grüner Veltliner<br />
(Finger Lakes). Asian pear and white-grapefruit<br />
notes are cutting and spry from nose to palate<br />
in this light-footed Grüner Veltliner. While delicate<br />
in concentration, invigorating acidity and brisk texture<br />
invigorate the palate. A hint of smoke meanders<br />
through a long finish. Drink now through 2019. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12% Price: $15<br />
88<br />
Fulkerson 2014 William Vigne Grüner Veltliner<br />
(Seneca Lake). Wisps of green herb<br />
and alpine breeze lend a cool refreshing tone to this<br />
zesty Grüner Veltliner. While delicate in body and<br />
concentration, it’s spry lime and grapefruit flavors<br />
are invigorating. Drink now through 2019. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12% Price: $14<br />
88<br />
One Woman 2015 Grüner Veltliner (North<br />
Fork of Long Island). Dusty mineral tones<br />
accent fresh apple, pear and green plum in this fullbodied<br />
Grüner Veltliner. Its rippling mouthfilling<br />
texture is pleasing, offset pertly by zesty lime acidity<br />
on the finish. Enjoy now through 2019. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13.1% Price: $25<br />
86<br />
Lamoreaux Landing 2015 Grüner Veltliner<br />
(Finger Lakes). Delicate but savory apple<br />
and pear aromas extend to the palate of this bigbodied<br />
Grüner Veltliner. While texturally bold, dense<br />
even, the palate is anchored neatly by brisk acidity.<br />
Fruit flavors are not deeply concentrated but it’s a<br />
satisfyingly rich wine to enjoy now through 2018.<br />
—A.I.<br />
abv: 13.2% Price: $20<br />
90<br />
RIESLING<br />
Heron Hill 2014 Reserve Riesling (Finger<br />
Lakes). Crushed minerals and pristine<br />
white-grapefruit and green-plum flavors mingle<br />
gorgeously throughout this revitalizing Riesling. It’s<br />
zesty and spry but has a rounded, slightly yielding<br />
mouthfeel. The finish wraps up quite dry. Drink<br />
now through 2021. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $25<br />
89<br />
Glenora 2015 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes).<br />
A hint of lemongrass lends complexity to<br />
fresh lime, lemon and green plum in this revitalizing<br />
dry Riesling. It’s light as a feather in texture yet<br />
concentrated in flavor. Crushed mineral tones linger<br />
on the finish. Drink now through 2020. —A.I.<br />
abv: 11% Price: $15<br />
88<br />
Atwater 2014 Riesling (Finger Lakes). While<br />
the nose suggests more dusty mineral than<br />
fruit, the palate of this off-dry Riesling offers loads<br />
of concentrated tangerine, lemon and apple flavors.<br />
It’s juicy and ripe yet keenly balanced by a penetrating<br />
backbone of lemon-lime acidity. Drink now<br />
through 2021. —A.I.<br />
abv: 10.1% Price: $16<br />
88<br />
Heron Hill 2015 Ingle Vineyard Riesling (Finger<br />
Lakes). A wisp of bramble extends a<br />
savory tone from nose to finish on this otherwise<br />
bright bristling wine. Delicate honey tones register<br />
as off dry on the palate but balance neatly alongside<br />
flavors of freshly pressed apples and pears. The finish<br />
is marked by a touch of pencil lead. Drink now<br />
through 2020. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12% Price: $20<br />
88<br />
Wagner 2015 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes).<br />
Fresh and fragrant, this apple-scented<br />
Riesling offers loads of brisk lemon-lime flavors<br />
augmented by a subtle vein of smoke. Dry in style,<br />
it’s delicately textured with a lean, slightly cutting<br />
demeanor. Drink now through 2020. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12.3% Price: $15<br />
87<br />
240 Days 2015 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Waxy<br />
citrus skins and pressed apple notes are<br />
accented by a whiff of pine in this racy light-footed<br />
Riesling. It’s just a shade off dry, with an invigoratingly<br />
brisk texture. Drink now through 2019. —A.I.<br />
abv: 11% Price: $28<br />
87<br />
Barnstormer 2014 N6679P Riesling (Finger<br />
Lakes). Veins of smoke and petrol thread<br />
through layers of pressed apple, pear and tangerine<br />
54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017