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is treated with great care, resulting in a complete<br />

package. That starts with baked red cherry, mulberry<br />

and tangy plum on the nose, dusted with nutmeg<br />

and hickory smoke. The intriguing flavor profile<br />

offers tangy black raspberry, suave hibiscus and<br />

other red-flower touches along with clove stick and<br />

cinnamon spice. —M.K.<br />

abv: 14.2% Price: $36<br />

93<br />

Bruliam 2014 Soberanes Vineyard Pinot Noir<br />

(Santa Lucia Highlands). Hearty sagebrush,<br />

rust and dust meet with dried Montgomery cherry<br />

and tart pomegranate aromas on the nose of this<br />

bottling from a Healdsburg-based producer. It’s luscious<br />

on the palate with ripe plum fruit and tons of<br />

baking spice, from cinnamon to clove cream, nutmeg<br />

and vanilla. —M.K.<br />

abv: 14.4% Price: $46<br />

93<br />

Cakebread 2014 Two Creeks Vineyards Pinot<br />

Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see<br />

page 6. Editors’ Choice.<br />

abv: 14.9% Price: $42<br />

93<br />

Couloir 2014 John Sebastiano VIneyard Pinot<br />

Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Baked black cherry and<br />

black plum meet with lots of crushed gravel and<br />

light fennel on the nose of this bottling that is all<br />

about fruit and earth, rather than herb and spice.<br />

Tart red plum and sour raspberry show upon the<br />

palate’s gravelly texture, but darker red fruit awaits<br />

in the midpalate along with char and a touch of soy.<br />

—M.K.<br />

abv: 13.4% Price: $52<br />

93<br />

El Lugar 2014 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot<br />

Noir (Santa Maria Valley). For full review see<br />

page 6.<br />

abv: 13.4% Price: $46<br />

93<br />

Kynsi 2013 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir<br />

(Santa Maria Valley). Turned earth is very<br />

apparent on the nose of this bottling from the historic<br />

vineyard, with crushed shale and loam dust as<br />

well as cinnamon spice and a red-cherry backbone.<br />

The sip shows deep pomegranate and black-raspberry<br />

fruit with gingerbread, hibiscus and a touch<br />

of thyme. It’s rich in the midpalate, with extreme<br />

spice throughout. —M.K.<br />

abv: 13.8% Price: $45<br />

93<br />

Kynsi 2013 Stone Corral Vineyard Pinot Noir<br />

(Edna Valley). Deep aromas of hibiscus, rose<br />

buds, dark red berries and sugar plums are spiced<br />

up by cola, crushed pencils and lots of garrigue on<br />

this bottling. The palate is clean and crisp, with<br />

snappy raspberry, light cranberry and lots more<br />

chaparral-like herbs, including wild thyme, bay laurel,<br />

lavender and fennel pollen. —M.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $48<br />

93<br />

Lincourt 2014 Rancho Santa Rosa Pinot Noir<br />

(Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 7.<br />

abv: 14.1% Price: $30<br />

93<br />

Loring Wine Company 2015 Garys’ Vineyard<br />

Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Deep,<br />

rich aromas of baked plum, rhubarb pie, star anise,<br />

red cinnamon, forest floor and gingerbread show on<br />

this nose of this wine from a vineyard planted by the<br />

two Garys, Pisoni and Franscioni. The palate is full<br />

of baked raspberry and cinnamon-and-clove-spiced<br />

cookies, remaining elegant and layered throughout<br />

the sip. —M.K.<br />

abv: 14.3% Price: $54<br />

93<br />

Loring Wine Company 2015 Rancho La Viña<br />

Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). A brilliant<br />

combination of rich fruit, hearty spice and<br />

lovely florality shows on the nose of this bottling<br />

by Brian Loring, conveying deep red cherry, cola,<br />

rose buds, hibiscus, star anise, dark clove and mace.<br />

The palate recalls baked goods laced with allspice<br />

and drizzled in black-plum sauce. The richness is<br />

attention-grabbing. —M.K.<br />

abv: 14.3% Price: $54<br />

93<br />

Nielson by Byron 2014 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita<br />

Hills). Comprised solely of old-school Swan<br />

and Calera clones, this bottling offers red cherrycinnamon-mocha<br />

foam on the well-integrated, multilayered<br />

nose, along with some heartier plum and<br />

vanilla. It tightens on the sip to reveal strawberry<br />

fruit but also oregano, raw beef and lots of florality.<br />

—M.K.<br />

abv: 14.8% Price: $45<br />

93<br />

Pali 2014 Huber Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta.<br />

Rita Hills). Hibiscus and raspberry mesh<br />

with lots of iron and a touch of smoke on the nose<br />

of this bottling from a vineyard that the winery<br />

leases. That iron and rust character shows on the<br />

palate too, up against a dried strawberry and ripe<br />

cranberry backdrop. Flinty minerality and minty<br />

herbs enhance this light and lithe wine that is full<br />

of character. —M.K.<br />

abv: 13.1% Price: $54<br />

93<br />

Peake Ranch 2014 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills).<br />

This is the first round of wines from this<br />

project by John Wagner, who owns parts of Sierra<br />

Madre and John Sebastiano vineyards, and winemaker<br />

Paul Lato. Black-plum skins, roasted game,<br />

anise and sandalwood aromas show on the nose.<br />

Earthy and zesty, the palate delivers cranberry-beet<br />

juice along with roasted fennel, eucalyptus oil and<br />

bitter Earl Grey tea touches. —M.K.<br />

abv: 14.3% Price: $40<br />

93<br />

Rideau 2014 La Encantada Vineyard Pinot<br />

Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). From one of the more<br />

popular vineyards in the appellation, this bottling<br />

shows strawberry fruit, allspice, black pepper, candied<br />

cherry and cinnamon on the nose. A strong<br />

sizzle of acidity marks the sip, with intriguingly<br />

deep raspberry, tangy cranberry, white pepper and<br />

crushed-slate flavors. Though light in body, it is<br />

heavy in flavors. —M.K.<br />

abv: 13.3% Price: $46<br />

93<br />

Scar of the Sea 2014 Seven Leagues Pinot<br />

Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Though this is<br />

their appellation blend, Mikey Giugni and Michael<br />

Brughelli don’t hold back, offering elegant aromas of<br />

rose petals, purple flowers, rich pomegranate fruit,<br />

rusty strawberries and light vanilla on the nose. The<br />

palate begins with a light cranberry-raspberry flavor<br />

that deepens into tart mulberry before showing<br />

dried rose petals, uncrushed clove and a lava-rock<br />

minerality. —M.K.<br />

abv: 13.7% Price: $46<br />

93<br />

Small Vines 2014 Baranoff Vineyard Estate<br />

Grown Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).<br />

From a vineyard planted in rocky red soil, this wine<br />

shows a depth of concentrated and intense cranberry<br />

and black tea. It’s currently youthful in feel,<br />

with structured tannins and full, rich chocolate and<br />

coffee flavors. It will benefit from time in the cellar,<br />

so enjoy 2020–2024. Cellar Selection. —V.B.<br />

abv: 13.2% Price: $82<br />

93<br />

Small Vines 2014 TBH Vineyard Pinot Noir<br />

(Sonoma Coast). A first-release from this<br />

site, this is a balanced, lightly textured wine, pretty<br />

in rose and lavender, with an intriguing shock of<br />

white pepper. Baked cherry and plum find companionship<br />

in savory clove and cinnamon on the delicate<br />

palate. —V.B.<br />

abv: 13.2% Price: $82<br />

93<br />

Thomas Fogarty 2013 Kent Berry Vineyard<br />

Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). This bottling<br />

kicks off with a strikingly distinct aromatic<br />

profile recalling an elegant fruit punch, with hibiscus,<br />

raspberry sorbet, sour-cherry candy, sandalwood,<br />

incense and an underlying anise scent. Plump<br />

raspberry shows on the rounded red-fruit palate,<br />

with a minty, herbal touches of cedar and tobacco.<br />

—M.K.<br />

abv: 12.6% Price: $50<br />

93<br />

Transcendence 2014 La Encantada Vineyard<br />

Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Cola, smoked<br />

cherries, rhubarb, earthy beets, crushed cloves and<br />

a touch of iron show on the nose of this wine by<br />

Kenneth Joey Gummere. The attention-grabbing<br />

texture on the grippy palate unleashes flavors of<br />

earthy rhubarb, beet, rose hips and a touch of mint.<br />

—M.K.<br />

abv: 13.9% Price: $45<br />

93<br />

Wedell Cellars 2011 The Row Find Pinot Noir<br />

(Sta. Rita Hills). Gravel, chaparral, sagebrush,<br />

mulberry and fig aromas show on the nose<br />

of this bottling from a distinct row of grapes. The<br />

strong herbal profile on the palate ranges from oregano<br />

and marjoram to thyme, rosemary and a touch<br />

of juniper, all set against black-plum fruit. It’s firmly<br />

structured, very dry and deftly restrained. —M.K.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $110<br />

93<br />

Wolff 2013 Dijon Clones Selection Pinot Noir<br />

(Edna Valley). Bright and ready-to-burst<br />

flavors of raspberry and just-ripe cranberry show<br />

WINEMAG.COM | 33

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