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BUYINGGUIDE
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Williams Selyem 2014 Drake Estate Vineyard
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This
Guerneville-area estate is one of the last picked by
the producer, and it delivers enviable depth and
complexity. Highlights include a dollop of apricot
jam beside rich honeycomb and toasty oak. Juicy
acidity supports its creamy tendency toward tropical
flavor, as streaks of citrus fiercely protect its
freshness. —V.B.
abv: 14.4% Price: $65
93
Bell 2013 Clone 337 Unfiltered Cabernet
Sauvignon (Rutherford). From the Georges
III Vineyard in the heart of the appellation, this
100% clonal-specific wine is juicy and generously
seasoned in blackberry, tobacco and black pepper.
With a huge presence on the palate, it finishes with
dried herb and anise. Cellar through 2023. Cellar
Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $160
93
Foley 2014 Rancho Santa Rosa Chardonnay
(Sta. Rita Hills). Light on the nose, this
shows delicate aromas of Asian pear, honeysuckle,
squeezed lemon wedge, fresh coconut flesh and a
tiny bit of butter. The palate is also demure yet delicious,
with lightly poached apples, squeezed lime
and a chalky textural grip. —M.K.
abv: 14.1% Price: $30
93
Acumen 2013 Mountainside Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). This new project from
the heights of Atlas Peak involves Steve Matthiasson
as both viticulturist and winemaker, having had
to take over the reins from the late Denis Malbec.
It shines in bristling acidity, dusty tannin and a
beautiful floral aroma of violet. Notes of chocolate,
fig and cigar sit atop a pillowy, complex structure,
while vanilla lingers on the finish. Editors’ Choice.
—V.B.
abv: 14% Price: $60
93
Cakebread 2014 Two Creeks Vineyards Pinot
Noir (Anderson Valley). Great fruit concentration
and depth give power to this full-bodied
wine from Cakebread, better known for its Napagrown
Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Not
tricked up with too much oak, it tastes energized,
deep and layered. Black cherry, rhubarb and cedar
fan out across the palate, lingering a long time on
the finish. Best from 2018. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.9% Price: $42
93
Giesen 2013 The Fuder Single Vineyard Selection
Matthews Lane Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough).
Fuder is German for a large wooden vessel,
used in this case for the fermentation and aging
of wine. Hints of struck-match complexity mark the
nose, giving way to notes of grilled nectarine. The
wine is full and rich in the mouth, with a mouthwatering
finish that marries stone fruit and pink
grapefruit into a stunning finale. Pacific Highway
Wines & Spirits. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $55
93
Baileyana 2014 Firepeak Chardonnay (Edna
Valley). Burgundy-raised vintner Christian
Roguenant gets to show his stuff in this line of Firepeak
wines. Wet cement, honeysuckle, crisp Asian
pear and the slightest hints of tropicality show on
the nose, while the palate offers yellow grapefruit,
lemon skins, squeezed lime and lime-blossom flavors,
wrapped around nervy tension. Editors’
Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.3% Price: $28
93
El Lugar 2014 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Santa Maria Valley). From the Pommard
and Martini old-vine clones in a special
corner of this historic vineyard, Winemaker Coby
Parker-Garcia presents elegant raspberry fruit
spiced by sagebrush, bay leaf and mulling spices for
a pretty and vivacious nose. The palate clings to an
earthy grip, with forest-floor flavors meshing into
baked cranberry, sour cherry, roasted beef, iron and
white pepper. —M.K.
abv: 13.4% Price: $46
93
Golden Triangle 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles Willow Creek District).
Extremely dark in the glass, this bottling by a
founder of the popular Garagiste Festival shows
blueberry, black currant, dark chocolate, graphite
and soft licorice on the nose. Deep and lavish but
not overripe on the palate, flavors of anise, elderberry
and black currant hang from a grippy structure
bolstered by strong acidity. Drink 2018–2028.
Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 15.1% Price: $70
6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017