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is clearly defined and on the brighter spectrum of
red cherry, strawberry and cranberry. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $45
90
Gracianna 2014 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). Sanguine and
meaty, this big-shouldered wine from a prime site
on Westside Road showcases a ripeness of black
cherry accented in forest floor, cola and cardamom.
Mellow oak contributes softness to the texture as a
length of licorice takes over at the end. —V.B.
abv: 15.2% Price: $52
90
La Crema 2014 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
For full review see page 18.
abv: 13.5% Price: $25
90
La Follette 2014 Sangiacomo Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Coast). Smoky tar and oak
meet baked huckleberry in this soft, textured and
lengthy wine from this great family of grape growers.
Moderate acidity allows for a ripe, full-bodied
expression of the variety. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $42
90
Lucienne 2014 Lone Oak Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands). For full review see
page 18.
abv: 14.5% Price: $50
90
On Point 2014 Christina’s Cuvée Pinot Noir
(North Coast). Full bodied and definitely
fruity without being sweet, this wine from Fulcrum
comes straight at the taste buds with opulent black
cherry and tart raspberry flavors on a vivid texture.
Having spent 15 months in French oak before bottling,
it tastes a bit dense and muted at this point,
and should be best after 2018. —J.G.
abv: 14.1% Price: $38
90
Ron Rubin 2013 Estate Grown Pinot Noir
(Green Valley). This earthy, cool-climate
wine is perfumed in a delicate layering of rose and
spice, with subtle additions of brown sugar, tart
cranberry and rhubarb. The oak is muted and supportive,
while the body is light and bright. —V.B.
abv: 13.7% Price: $40
90
Ryan Cochrane 2014 Fiddlestix Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This is a very
light expression of the grape from a San Franciscobased
producer, with thyme, chaparral, cranberry,
tart pomegranate juice and wet clay on the nose.
The palate shows light, tangy cherry juice, fennel,
crushed olive and peppery spice. It will work well
for fans of this style, but there’s not enough there
to entertain the mainstream Pinot Noir fan. —M.K.
abv: 14.3% Price: $43
90
Sonoma-Cutrer 2014 Winemaker’s Release
Owsley Single Block Estate Bottled Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page
20.
abv: 14.3% Price: $50
89
Calstar Cellars 2012 Sangiacomo Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This wine discloses
a richness of compost-like earthiness, rose
petal and black tea. Medium bodied, it also shows
dried herb and wild strawberry. —V.B.
abv: 14.2% Price: $40
89
Medlock Ames 2014 Moss Oak Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). Cloudy with a touch
of reduction on the nose, this wine opens with a
heady perfume of roses, kirsch and crushed strawberries,
tight and lively on the palate in fresh acidity.
It remains highly aromatic in the glass. —V.B.
abv: 14.1% Price: $50
89
Paul Dolan 2014 Pinot Noir (Potter Valley).
For full review see page 20. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
89
R2 2013 Day Ranch Pinot Noir (Anderson
Valley). A light garnet color along with
lightly earthy and spicy flavors fit this wine into the
old school, where it offers nice balance, elegant texture
and complex nuances of tea, cherry and raspberry.
There is no heavy, overripe fruit or extreme
oakiness to get in the way of pure enjoyment. —J.G.
abv: 14.2% Price: $38
89
Sundae wines 2014 Pinot Noir (California).
This spicy, medium-bodied wine is heavily
sprinkled with cinnamon and nutmeg aromas. It
tucks layers of red cherry and raspberry into the flavors
while soothing the palate with a velvety, easyto-sip
texture. —J.G.
abv: 14.4% Price: $25
89
Wrights Station 2013 777 Clones Pinot Noir
(Santa Cruz Mountains). This clonal study
could have used a touch of help from other clones,
but it’s still a very tasty and vibrant wine. Quite
light in the glass, it shows rust, earth, forest floor
and tart berries on the dainty nose. The equally
demure palate offers light cranberry plus touches of
thyme and white pepper. —M.K.
abv: 14.3% Price: $39
89
Wrights Station 2013 Far Away Block Pinot
Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Though quite
light in the glass, this bottling shows dark Indian
spices and cinnamon as well as strawberry and candied
cherry on the nose. Those same red fruits arise
on the palate, lifted by thyme, more cinnamon and a
peppery spice. —M.K.
abv: 15.2% Price: $49
88
Acacia 2013 Reserve Pinot Noir (Carneros).
This wine is bold and brawny, defined by
big, oaky tannin and concentrated weight. Fresh
black cherry develops a candied quality in the glass,
while an earthy undercurrent of minty forest adds
complexity. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $50
88
Belle Ambiance 2014 Pinot Noir (California).
For full review see page 21. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5% Price: $10
88
Calstar Cellars 2013 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). Light in color and texture, this wine
at first is muted and shy, getting spicier and earthier
as it goes, with a baked strawberry-compote flavor
at its core. —V.B.
abv: 14.3% Price: $30
88
Carmel Road 2015 Panorama Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Arroyo Seco). This wine is somewhat
shy in aroma, with rust, light raspberry, cherry,
gravel, dust and a slight cola element arising with
patience. Bright red-cherry fruit and hibiscus
shows on the sip, yet it’s a tad dried out. Slate and
riverstone touches add minerality, and the structure
is defined by a rocky grip. —M.K.
abv: 15% Price: $35
88
Chime 2015 Pinot Noir (California). Concentrated
oak aromas and flavors are the
hallmarks of this medium-bodied, full-flavored
and attractively priced wine. Lush plum and blackcherry
notes vie for attention, but oaky accents like
cedar, nutmeg and cinnamon stay in the forefront
from the aroma through the soft texture to the finish.
Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $13
88
En Garde 2013 Starkey Hill Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). This is a smooth, wellmannered
and distinctly varietal wine, richly
rewarding in cola spice and earthy black tea, with a
juicy finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.2% Price: $54
88
Martin Ranch 2014 J.D.Hurley R.E.D. Vineyards
Pinot Noir (Central Coast). A powerful
aroma of incense arises on the nose of this bottling,
along with thyme, rosemary and a pomegranate
touch. That herbal presence is strong on the sip as
well, with more thyme and oregano as well as juniper
and forest floor. Dark-red fruit gives it a base,
and the finish shows off a menthol element. —M.K.
abv: 14.3% Price: $22
88
Pessagno 2013 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands).
Fig, black plum, dried cherry and
chai spice show on the nose of this bottling from
River Road south of Salinas. Heavy flavors of dried
black cherry and dried cranberry show on the sip,
lifted by eucalyptus oil, juniper and black-tea elements.
—M.K.
abv: 15.9% Price: $42
88
Portalupi 2014 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
This ripe, full-bodied coastal wine retains
a wealth of smoky bacon layered atop baked blueberry,
the fruit seasoned in cinnamon. Warm and
robust, the flavors are lush and supremely rich.
—V.B.
abv: 15% Price: $30
36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017