2jX32GW

BUYINGGUIDE
93
Jean-Paul Brun 2015 Les Thorins (Moulin-à-
Vent). One of an impressive range of wines
by this producer from the Beaujolais crus, this wine
comes from the mineral-driven flint soil of the
slopes beneath the famous windmill that gives this
appellation its name. It is powerful and dense, full
of jammy red fruits as well as acidity and structured
tannins. Drink from 2019. Louis/Dressner Selections.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $31
92
Château des Jacques 2015 Moulin-à-Vent.
This is a rich wine, full of red-plum fruits
making it ripe and generous. If it does have too much
alcohol for a wine from Beaujolais, it shows in a mere
hint of pepper. Full of structured tannins as well as
the rich fruits, this cru will be ready to drink from
2018. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 14.5% Price: $30
92
Domaine des Chers 2015 Vieilles Vignes (Moulin-à-Vent).
Owner Arnaud Briday has made
a firm structured cru wine. While it has the generous
fruit of the year, it also has plenty of tannins that
give it tension and concentration. The wine is rich
with explosive berry fruits and balanced acidity.
Drink from 2018. Alain Junguenet Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $29
92
Domaine du Vissoux 2015 Les Trois Roches
(Moulin-à-Vent). This is a rich complex
wine. It has layers of tannins and juicy black fruits
that are integrated beautifully. The acidity gives
the wine a crisper edge although never taking away
from the ripe fruit and structured character. Drink
this Chermette family cru wine from 2018. Weygandt-Metzler.
Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $27
92
Domaine les Fines Graves 2015 Moulin-à-
Vent. This is a serious, complex cru wine
from Jacky Janodet. It is full of structured tannins
and rich black fruits. It is a wine that will age with
its dry core and layers of acidity. There is a brighter
element to this impressive wine that keeps the
aftertaste juicy and crisp. Drink from 2018. Michael
Corso Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $23
92
Georges Duboeuf 2015 Domaine de la Vigne
Romaine (Moulin-à-Vent). For full review
see page 10.
abv: 13% Price: $25
92
Jean-Paul Brun 2015 La Rochelle (Moulinà-Vent).
There is a firm base of structured
tannin in this wine. From that comes a tight, mineral
texture and red-cherry fruits. The wine is
young, still with its bubbly bright fruit. It comes
from one of the best sectors of the appellation. This
is a cru wine with the potential to age. Drink this
wine from 2019. Louis/Dressner Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $25
91
Domaine Labruyère 2014 Coeur de Terroirs
(Moulin-à-Vent). This is a rich cru wine with
red-plum flavors as well as tannins that are still
young and forceful. Densely textured, the wine has
plenty of potential. It will become a ripe and fruity
wine while also remaining firm and structured.
Drink from 2018. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.
—R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $28
90
Albert Bichot 2015 Domaine de Rochegrès
(Moulin-à-Vent). Beaune merchant Albert
Bichot has added this Domaine to its estate. The
wine is rich, structured and with a firm underlay
of tannins. It has a polished, ripe character, blackcherry
fruits and a structure that will allow it to age.
Drink from 2018. Albert Bichot USA. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $34
90
Château de Chatelard 2015 Cuvée Terre de
Lumière (Moulin-à-Vent). Richly structured
this wine, from well-exposed vines (hence the land
of light in the name) is fruity with black cherry and
some firm tannins. It is going to develop into a serious,
complex wine. Drink from 2018. Wineberry
America LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14% Price: $24
90
Georges Duboeuf 2015 Domaine de Roche
Noire (Moulin-à-Vent). From an small
estate that also has vines in Chénas and Saint-
Amour, this is a firmly tannic wine that also has
attractive juicy red-berry fruits. The wine, still
young, will repay aging allowing it to broaden out
with rich fruit and a soft texture. Drink this cru
from late 2017. Quintessential Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $24
90
Georges Duboeuf 2015 Domaine des Rosiers
(Moulin-à-Vent). Gérard Charvet took over
Rosiers from his father in 1983 and remains focused
on the art of vinification. A percentage (30%) of
wood aging has give this ripe wine its dense texture.
That contrasts with the generous black fruits
that are still developing. This is a serious, dense
wine that will age. Drink from 2018. Quintessential
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $24
89
Domaine Labruyère 2013 Coeur de Terroirs
(Moulin-à-Vent). Wood-aging flavors have
given this cru wine a toasty character that balances
its natural fruitiness. The structure and linear character
of the wine is prominent. The red fruits and
acidity come through slowly at the end. Drink from
mid-2017. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $39
87
Georges Duboeuf 2015 Domaine du Pourpre
(Moulin-à-Vent). Vines over 50-years-old
give a concentrated cru wine. It is ripe with berry
fruits topped by spice. Fruity and likely to develop
quickly, it is an attractive wine to drink young from
mid-2017. Quintessential Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $27
87
Georges Duboeuf 2015 Flower Label (Moulinà-Vent).
A structured cru wine, full of firm
tannins. It is a bold ripe wine with black-cherry
fruit, a hint of banana and juicy acidity. The wine
comes from a single 30-acre vineyard. Drink from
late 2017. Quintessential Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $20
87
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2015 Léon (Moulin-à-Vent).
Light and only gently structured,
this is a cru wine that is more about juicy red fruits.
It has attractive acidity and a touch of spice. It is
likely to be ready to drink in the next few months,
certainly by mid-2017. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $18
93
FLEURIE
Domaine des Marrans 2015 Clos du Pavillon
(Fleurie). From this old vineyard, producer
Jean-Jacques Mélinand has selected the oldest
vines to make this wine. The result is a solid, firmly
structured wine that will take several years to fully
develop. It is intensely textured, with layers of acidity
and red fruits hinting at a crisper, fruity future.
Drink the wine from 2018. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $30
93
Domaine du Vissoux 2015 Les Garants (Fleurie).
The Chermette family has produced a
rich generous cru wine. It is structured and dense
with some firm tannins from maturing in wood. It
also has a generous black plum and cherry fruits
that are developing well. Drink this wine from late
2017. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $27
93
Jean-Paul Brun 2015 Terres Dorées Grille-Midi
(Fleurie). Although he is based in the Terres
Dorées (golden earth) region of southern Beaujolais,
this producer has an enviable palate of vineyards in
the crus to the north. This wine comes from one. It
has structure, density and a a solid core of both tannins
and rich fruit. Drink from 2018. Louis/Dressner
Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $32
92
Château de Chatelard 2015 Cuvée les Vieux
Granits (Fleurie). From vines planted as its
name suggests on granite soil, the wine is structured
and dense with rich juicy black fruits. Packed with
perfumed fruitiness and acidity, the wine is developing
well, ready to drink from late 2017. Wineberry
America LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $22
92
Château de Chatelard 2015 Renaissance
(Fleurie). Produced from a selection of vineyard
fruit, the wine is rich with berry flavors that lie
over dark tannins. A solid texture is balanced with
juicy fruits and acidity to give a wine that is ripe and
likely to age well. Drink this impressive wine from
2019. Wineberry America LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $30
70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017