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Williams Selyem 2014 Lewis MacGregor
Estate Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River
Valley). This is the inaugural vintage of a new
estate wine, from a 30-acre property on Eastside
Road across the Russian River from the winery.
Pear compote, anise and lemon candy wrap around
voluptuous layers marked by green apple and orange
peel, offering richness and weight in hearty measure.
—V.B.
abv: 14.6% Price: $65
91
Balletto 2014 Estate Grown Estate Bottled
Pinot Gris (Russian River Valley). From one of
the few producers to grow and make this variety in
the appellation, this was fermented in both neutral
oak and stainless steel. It’s focused and viscous,
with a tropical opening of Tahitian vanilla built
around white peach, lemony acidity and a fresh,
crisp texture. —V.B.
abv: 13.8% Price: $18
91
Black Stallion 2013 Limited Release Merlot
(Napa Valley). This bold, full-bodied wine
is understated in its layering of cassis, currant and
juicy black cherry, with hints of clove and smoked
meat. It’s well balanced, with an enduring and
evolving finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.8% Price: $40
92
Yao Family Wines 2014 Napa Crest (Napa Valley).
This is a Cabernet Sauvignon-driven
blend, with 25% Merlot and 12% Petit Verdot.
Generously oaky and ripe, it offers textured layers
of graphite, cigar and cedar. An exciting sideshow
of spicy Mexican chocolate accents deeper, darker
shocks of black cherry. —V.B.
abv: 14.1% Price: $48
91
Balletto 2012 Brut Rosé Méthode Traditionelle
Sparkling Wine (Russian River Valley).
From entirely estate-grown Pinot Noir (70%) and
Chardonnay (30%), this dry sparkling is vivacious
and fun, crisp in apple, pear and raspberry. Lively,
lemony acidity lifts the palate. Complementing the
freshness is the rounded plushness of ripe fruit and
an earthy accent. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 12.9% Price: $42
91
Georges Duboeuf 2015 Côte du Py (Morgon). A
family-owned vineyard on this famous slope
in Morgon supplies the grapes to Duboeuf for the
wine. It is structured and dense, full of black plum
and berry flavors. Acidity cuts through the tannins,
resulting in a wine that will age well. Drink from
2019. Quintessential Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $22
91
Alma Rosa 2014 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills).
Quite light and restrained on the nose, this
bottling from Richard and Thekla Sanford shows
pithy Key lime and scratched grapefruit-skin aromas.
There is a decent sizzle of acidity to the palate,
with lime rinds, pith and juice playing together.
Touches of almond and flint add interest. —M.K.
abv: 14.1% Price: $28
91
Bianchi 2012 Syranot Pinot Noir-Syrah-Petite
Sirah (Central Coast). Pronounced like
“Cyrano,” this blend of 63% Petite Sirah, 28%
Pinot Noir and 9% Syrah successfully mingles
these distinct varieties. Crushed mulberry, strawberry
and black plum meet with thyme and mintchocolate-chip
aromas on the nose. The palate
shows similar flavors, yet is more subtle than a
typical Petite Sirah, with a plush mouthfeel. —M.K.
abv: 15.3% Price: $26
91
Georges Duboeuf 2015 Jean-Ernest
Descombes (Morgon). The Descombes family
has farmed vines in this appellation since the
French Revolution and Jean-Ernest Descombes
supplied one of Georges Duboeuf’s first Morgon
wines in 1968. The latest generation has produced a
ripe and fruity wine with a balanced structure. It is
dense in tannins that will soften over the next year.
Drink from 2018. Quintessential Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $22
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