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90<br />

J. Lohr 2014 Estates Los Osos Merlot (Paso<br />

Robles). For full review see page 21. Best<br />

Buy.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $15<br />

90<br />

Mill Creek 2013 Merlot (Alexander Valley).<br />

Juicy black plum and milk chocolate combine<br />

for a richly lush, soft and mild experience in<br />

this approachable wine, ripe and seasoned in a<br />

sprinkling of black pepper. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.7% Price: $32<br />

90<br />

Saddleback 2014 Merlot (Oakville). This is<br />

a thick, rich and chocolate-laden wine, soft<br />

and generously ladened with tannin. Cigar, cedar<br />

and dried sage remind one of its varietal intent,<br />

while its medium-bodied size allows for plushness<br />

on the palate. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $45<br />

89<br />

Duckhorn 2013 Merlot (Napa Valley). From a<br />

range of sites, including the producer’s own<br />

Three Palms Vineyard, this wine is muted in spiced<br />

plum and a trace of gunpowder, as well as dried herb<br />

and mountaintop cedar. Dense and generous in tannin,<br />

it’s soft and potently round. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $54<br />

88<br />

Bench 2014 Merlot (Knights Valley). A light,<br />

bright version of the variety, this soft and<br />

herbaceous wine mixes a subtle richness of toasted<br />

oak and dark chocolate with black plum and cherry.<br />

It retains its acidity well, showing a tightness of<br />

structure with enough approachability. —V.B.<br />

abv: 13.7% Price: $24<br />

88<br />

Dry Creek Vineyard 2013 Merlot (Dry Creek<br />

Valley). This youthful, tannic wine needs<br />

time in the glass to unfold, benefiting from the additions<br />

of 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet<br />

Franc. A reductive style shows slightly on the nose<br />

before streaks of soy, leather and tobacco provide<br />

plenty of savory elements with which to play. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $26<br />

88<br />

Duckhorn 2013 Rector Creek Vineyard Merlot<br />

(Napa Valley). A full-bodied expression of<br />

the variety, blended with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />

this soft, rounded wine is dense in blueberry and<br />

currant, with a complexity of leather, pencil and<br />

soy. A pinpoint of reduction on the finish gives it a<br />

tinge of bitterness. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $95<br />

88<br />

Vanderbilt 2013 Reserve Merlot (Dry Creek<br />

Valley). A mild current of cinnamon, clove<br />

and tobacco provide a spicy entry into this wine,<br />

backed up by a fruity mid-palate. Medium weight<br />

and body give it some power and substance, while<br />

on the finish, it comes under an herbaceous light.<br />

—V.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $27<br />

86<br />

Angeline 2014 Reserve Merlot (Paso<br />

Robles). Olallieberry, cedar and lacqueredwood<br />

aromas show on the nose of this bottling from<br />

a winery based in the Russian River Valley. There is<br />

a decently structured tannic chalkiness to the palate,<br />

with flavors of black cherry, vanilla and pepper.<br />

—M.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $15<br />

86<br />

Buena Vista 2014 Merlot (Sonoma Valley).<br />

This highly concentrated, richly ripe red<br />

explores notions of plum, black cherry and tobacco.<br />

It finishes with a mildness of dried herb. —V.B.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $25<br />

86<br />

Joullian 2013 Merlot (Carmel Valley). Sharp<br />

Concord grape ripeness meets with a touch<br />

of chile pepper and dark tobacco on the nose of<br />

this bottling. The palate is redolent with aromatic<br />

woods, from cedar to sandalwood, as well as blueberries<br />

and dried herbs, but it’s a tad thin. —M.K.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $40<br />

86<br />

Pull 2012 Merlot (Paso Robles). Light dried<br />

herbs, cigar box and cranberry aromas<br />

arise on the nose of this bottling from the Broken<br />

Earth team. It’s zesty on the sip, with raspberry and<br />

cooked red-plum flavors that are spiced up by pepper<br />

and more dried herbs. It’s a tad thin. —M.K.<br />

abv: 14.1% Price: $18<br />

86<br />

St. Supéry 2013 Dollarhide Estate Vineyard<br />

Merlot (Rutherford). Thick, rich and woody,<br />

this herbal, estate-grown red shows a wealth of<br />

baked-plum flavor laced in vanilla, with richness<br />

bursting on the finish. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />

85<br />

Camp 2015 Merlot (Sonoma County). This is<br />

a simple wine with a touch of menthol and<br />

astringency, a mix of dried herb and grapes picked<br />

at an early stage of ripeness. —V.B.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $18<br />

84<br />

Broadway Vineyards 2013 Estate Grown Merlot<br />

(Carneros). This is a basic wine, thick<br />

and extracted with a generosity of ripe, bold red<br />

fruit and walled-in tannin. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.6% Price: $40<br />

94<br />

PETIT VERDOT<br />

Boeschen Vineyards 2013 Estate Petit Verdot<br />

(Napa Valley). Winemaker Doug Boeschen<br />

has but one acre of this variety, and he puts it to<br />

tremendous use here, in this tamed, food-friendly<br />

expression of a robust grape. This vintage is his first<br />

single-bottling of PV. Soft, integrated tannin supports<br />

juicy black currant and a svelte layering of<br />

dark chocolate, punctured by an arsenal of beautiful<br />

violet aromas. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $95<br />

92<br />

Jarvis 2010 Estate Grown Cave Fermented<br />

Petit Verdot (Napa Valley). This wine takes<br />

a light approach to a robust red grape, in this case<br />

mellowing it with the addition of 15% Merlot. It<br />

remains buoyant on the palate and well structured,<br />

a combination of black olive, toffee, chalky tannin,<br />

juicy blackberry and blueberry. It allows for a richness<br />

of flavor without ever going overboard in texture<br />

or weight. —V.B.<br />

abv: 13.4% Price: $120<br />

91<br />

Concannon 2013 Reserve Petit Verdot (Livermore<br />

Valley). Juicy blackberry and boysenberry<br />

flavors fill out this deeply colored, boldtasting,<br />

full-bodied but not oaky wine. More fruit<br />

nuances and concentration develop with each sip,<br />

and the richly tannic texture coats the sides of the<br />

mouth, propelling the ripe fruit through the finish.<br />

It’s a great way to enjoy this Bordeaux grape variety<br />

bottled on its own instead of in a blend, as usual.<br />

—J.G.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $32<br />

91<br />

St. Supéry 2013 Dollarhide Petit Verdot (Napa<br />

Valley). Full bodied and fully concentrated,<br />

this estate-grown wine showcases black tar, licorice<br />

and black cherry, well-developed flavors that ride a<br />

luxurious texture of grippy tannin and toasty oak.<br />

Dark as night, the flavors are protracted and extensive<br />

through the finish. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />

90<br />

William Hill Estate 2013 Benchland Series<br />

Petit Verdot (Napa Valley). This big,<br />

brawny red has a baked quality to the fruit, a richness<br />

of blackberry, blueberry and tobacco leaf that’s<br />

surrounded by lush, velvety and integrated tannin.<br />

Subtle in oak, it speaks to power and concentration<br />

of the grape itself. —V.B.<br />

abv: 15.2% Price: $55<br />

89<br />

Peju 2013 Petit Verdot (Napa Valley). This<br />

100% varietal wine is dense and heavy on<br />

the palate in a generosity of tannin and concentrated<br />

black fruit. Lingering notions of cedar, dried<br />

herb and tar provide a tinge of bitterness as it develops<br />

in the glass. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $42<br />

87<br />

Midnight 2012 Synnove Petit Verdot (Paso<br />

Robles). Just-plucked blueberry, cedar and<br />

fermenting-grape aromas show on the dusty nose of<br />

this dark and heavy bottling. Boysenberry, turned<br />

earth and coffee beans show on the palate that is<br />

framed by chalky tannins, finishing on a touch of<br />

vanilla. —M.K.<br />

abv: 14.8% Price: $44<br />

87<br />

Parducci 2013 Reserve Petit Verdot (Mendocino).<br />

This is a dark, intensely astringent<br />

wine with so much grape and oak tannin that it’s<br />

challenging to enjoy now. Since PV is known as a<br />

grape that provides color and tannin in Bordeaux<br />

wines, it’s no wonder that it’s so stiff today. It will<br />

drink best after 2020. —J.G.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $30<br />

WINEMAG.COM | 27

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