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90<br />
J. Lohr 2014 Estates Los Osos Merlot (Paso<br />
Robles). For full review see page 21. Best<br />
Buy.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $15<br />
90<br />
Mill Creek 2013 Merlot (Alexander Valley).<br />
Juicy black plum and milk chocolate combine<br />
for a richly lush, soft and mild experience in<br />
this approachable wine, ripe and seasoned in a<br />
sprinkling of black pepper. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $32<br />
90<br />
Saddleback 2014 Merlot (Oakville). This is<br />
a thick, rich and chocolate-laden wine, soft<br />
and generously ladened with tannin. Cigar, cedar<br />
and dried sage remind one of its varietal intent,<br />
while its medium-bodied size allows for plushness<br />
on the palate. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $45<br />
89<br />
Duckhorn 2013 Merlot (Napa Valley). From a<br />
range of sites, including the producer’s own<br />
Three Palms Vineyard, this wine is muted in spiced<br />
plum and a trace of gunpowder, as well as dried herb<br />
and mountaintop cedar. Dense and generous in tannin,<br />
it’s soft and potently round. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $54<br />
88<br />
Bench 2014 Merlot (Knights Valley). A light,<br />
bright version of the variety, this soft and<br />
herbaceous wine mixes a subtle richness of toasted<br />
oak and dark chocolate with black plum and cherry.<br />
It retains its acidity well, showing a tightness of<br />
structure with enough approachability. —V.B.<br />
abv: 13.7% Price: $24<br />
88<br />
Dry Creek Vineyard 2013 Merlot (Dry Creek<br />
Valley). This youthful, tannic wine needs<br />
time in the glass to unfold, benefiting from the additions<br />
of 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet<br />
Franc. A reductive style shows slightly on the nose<br />
before streaks of soy, leather and tobacco provide<br />
plenty of savory elements with which to play. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $26<br />
88<br />
Duckhorn 2013 Rector Creek Vineyard Merlot<br />
(Napa Valley). A full-bodied expression of<br />
the variety, blended with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />
this soft, rounded wine is dense in blueberry and<br />
currant, with a complexity of leather, pencil and<br />
soy. A pinpoint of reduction on the finish gives it a<br />
tinge of bitterness. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $95<br />
88<br />
Vanderbilt 2013 Reserve Merlot (Dry Creek<br />
Valley). A mild current of cinnamon, clove<br />
and tobacco provide a spicy entry into this wine,<br />
backed up by a fruity mid-palate. Medium weight<br />
and body give it some power and substance, while<br />
on the finish, it comes under an herbaceous light.<br />
—V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $27<br />
86<br />
Angeline 2014 Reserve Merlot (Paso<br />
Robles). Olallieberry, cedar and lacqueredwood<br />
aromas show on the nose of this bottling from<br />
a winery based in the Russian River Valley. There is<br />
a decently structured tannic chalkiness to the palate,<br />
with flavors of black cherry, vanilla and pepper.<br />
—M.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $15<br />
86<br />
Buena Vista 2014 Merlot (Sonoma Valley).<br />
This highly concentrated, richly ripe red<br />
explores notions of plum, black cherry and tobacco.<br />
It finishes with a mildness of dried herb. —V.B.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $25<br />
86<br />
Joullian 2013 Merlot (Carmel Valley). Sharp<br />
Concord grape ripeness meets with a touch<br />
of chile pepper and dark tobacco on the nose of<br />
this bottling. The palate is redolent with aromatic<br />
woods, from cedar to sandalwood, as well as blueberries<br />
and dried herbs, but it’s a tad thin. —M.K.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $40<br />
86<br />
Pull 2012 Merlot (Paso Robles). Light dried<br />
herbs, cigar box and cranberry aromas<br />
arise on the nose of this bottling from the Broken<br />
Earth team. It’s zesty on the sip, with raspberry and<br />
cooked red-plum flavors that are spiced up by pepper<br />
and more dried herbs. It’s a tad thin. —M.K.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $18<br />
86<br />
St. Supéry 2013 Dollarhide Estate Vineyard<br />
Merlot (Rutherford). Thick, rich and woody,<br />
this herbal, estate-grown red shows a wealth of<br />
baked-plum flavor laced in vanilla, with richness<br />
bursting on the finish. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />
85<br />
Camp 2015 Merlot (Sonoma County). This is<br />
a simple wine with a touch of menthol and<br />
astringency, a mix of dried herb and grapes picked<br />
at an early stage of ripeness. —V.B.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $18<br />
84<br />
Broadway Vineyards 2013 Estate Grown Merlot<br />
(Carneros). This is a basic wine, thick<br />
and extracted with a generosity of ripe, bold red<br />
fruit and walled-in tannin. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $40<br />
94<br />
PETIT VERDOT<br />
Boeschen Vineyards 2013 Estate Petit Verdot<br />
(Napa Valley). Winemaker Doug Boeschen<br />
has but one acre of this variety, and he puts it to<br />
tremendous use here, in this tamed, food-friendly<br />
expression of a robust grape. This vintage is his first<br />
single-bottling of PV. Soft, integrated tannin supports<br />
juicy black currant and a svelte layering of<br />
dark chocolate, punctured by an arsenal of beautiful<br />
violet aromas. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $95<br />
92<br />
Jarvis 2010 Estate Grown Cave Fermented<br />
Petit Verdot (Napa Valley). This wine takes<br />
a light approach to a robust red grape, in this case<br />
mellowing it with the addition of 15% Merlot. It<br />
remains buoyant on the palate and well structured,<br />
a combination of black olive, toffee, chalky tannin,<br />
juicy blackberry and blueberry. It allows for a richness<br />
of flavor without ever going overboard in texture<br />
or weight. —V.B.<br />
abv: 13.4% Price: $120<br />
91<br />
Concannon 2013 Reserve Petit Verdot (Livermore<br />
Valley). Juicy blackberry and boysenberry<br />
flavors fill out this deeply colored, boldtasting,<br />
full-bodied but not oaky wine. More fruit<br />
nuances and concentration develop with each sip,<br />
and the richly tannic texture coats the sides of the<br />
mouth, propelling the ripe fruit through the finish.<br />
It’s a great way to enjoy this Bordeaux grape variety<br />
bottled on its own instead of in a blend, as usual.<br />
—J.G.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $32<br />
91<br />
St. Supéry 2013 Dollarhide Petit Verdot (Napa<br />
Valley). Full bodied and fully concentrated,<br />
this estate-grown wine showcases black tar, licorice<br />
and black cherry, well-developed flavors that ride a<br />
luxurious texture of grippy tannin and toasty oak.<br />
Dark as night, the flavors are protracted and extensive<br />
through the finish. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />
90<br />
William Hill Estate 2013 Benchland Series<br />
Petit Verdot (Napa Valley). This big,<br />
brawny red has a baked quality to the fruit, a richness<br />
of blackberry, blueberry and tobacco leaf that’s<br />
surrounded by lush, velvety and integrated tannin.<br />
Subtle in oak, it speaks to power and concentration<br />
of the grape itself. —V.B.<br />
abv: 15.2% Price: $55<br />
89<br />
Peju 2013 Petit Verdot (Napa Valley). This<br />
100% varietal wine is dense and heavy on<br />
the palate in a generosity of tannin and concentrated<br />
black fruit. Lingering notions of cedar, dried<br />
herb and tar provide a tinge of bitterness as it develops<br />
in the glass. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $42<br />
87<br />
Midnight 2012 Synnove Petit Verdot (Paso<br />
Robles). Just-plucked blueberry, cedar and<br />
fermenting-grape aromas show on the dusty nose of<br />
this dark and heavy bottling. Boysenberry, turned<br />
earth and coffee beans show on the palate that is<br />
framed by chalky tannins, finishing on a touch of<br />
vanilla. —M.K.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $44<br />
87<br />
Parducci 2013 Reserve Petit Verdot (Mendocino).<br />
This is a dark, intensely astringent<br />
wine with so much grape and oak tannin that it’s<br />
challenging to enjoy now. Since PV is known as a<br />
grape that provides color and tannin in Bordeaux<br />
wines, it’s no wonder that it’s so stiff today. It will<br />
drink best after 2020. —J.G.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $30<br />
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