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BUYINGGUIDE<br />

94<br />

ZINFANDEL<br />

Robert Biale 2014 Stagecoach Vineyard Zinfandel<br />

(Napa Valley). From the only producer<br />

to source Zin from this famous vineyard, this<br />

wine is abundant in a complexity of baked bread,<br />

blackberry jam and vanilla, with endless depth on<br />

the palate. Fresh and juicy, it balances its fruitiness<br />

with mountain-sized tannin strength and concentration.<br />

—V.B.<br />

abv: 14.7% Price: $52<br />

94<br />

VGS Chateau Potelle 2013 Zinfandel (Mount<br />

Veeder). Perfumed in a wildness of violet<br />

and lavender, this beautiful wine is rich and smooth<br />

on the palate, both textured and layered. Seductive<br />

in its hint of leathery white pepper, it develops<br />

brambly blackberry-compote flavors as it opens in<br />

the glass. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.8% Price: $65<br />

94<br />

Williams Selyem 2014 Bacigalupi Vineyard<br />

Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). For full<br />

review see page 5.<br />

abv: 14.9% Price: $58<br />

93<br />

Robert Biale 2014 Valsecchi Vineyard Zinfandel<br />

(Carneros). Meaty and dusty, this wine<br />

from a Vineburg-based site is full bodied, ripe and<br />

voluptuous with a light dusting of black pepper and<br />

clove. Within its cradling of dense concentration, an<br />

underbelly of acidity allows for freshness within the<br />

power. —V.B.<br />

abv: 15.5% Price: $58<br />

92<br />

Alyris 2014 The Audition Mount George<br />

Estate Zinfandel (Napa Valley). Peppery,<br />

brambly, integrated and balanced, this impressively<br />

layered and complex 100% varietal wine highlights<br />

the grape’s ability to be fruity, spicy and soft all at<br />

the same time. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.9% Price: $35<br />

92<br />

Armida 2014 Tina’s Block Maple Vineyards<br />

Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). For full review<br />

see page 9.<br />

abv: 14.8% Price: $48<br />

92<br />

Artezin 2014 Old Vine Zinfandel (Mendocino<br />

County). For full review see page 9. Editors’<br />

Choice.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $18<br />

92<br />

Haraszthy 2013 Indian Springs Ranch<br />

Reserve Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). This<br />

sultry, big-boned wine offers deft aspects of black<br />

pepper and dried herb atop a softly layered touch of<br />

brown sugar. Richness is there, as is a voluptuous<br />

flirtatiousness, yet it remains dry and dusty on the<br />

palate and classically varietal. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.8% Price: $34<br />

92<br />

Hunt & Ryde 2013 Old Vine Zinfandel<br />

(Sonoma County). For full review see page<br />

10.<br />

abv: 14.1% Price: $40<br />

92<br />

Jaxon Keys 2013 Estate Michael’s Reserve<br />

Norma’s Vineyard Primitivo (Mendocino).<br />

In this wine, a distinct and delicious blackberryjam<br />

aroma is backed up by concentrated and pure<br />

fruit flavors. But the balance is good and dry, and<br />

the wine has a mouth-filling texture buoyed by finegrained<br />

tannins and full body. This is a wonderful<br />

example of a flavor-packed but sophisticated dinner<br />

wine from this varietal. —J.G.<br />

abv: 14.6% Price: $24<br />

92<br />

Novy 2014 Limerick Lane Vineyard Zinfandel<br />

(Russian River Valley). This showcases a<br />

highly sought-after vineyard site known for its tension<br />

of big, bold, ripe fruit and notable acidity. Red<br />

currant, cranberry and leather find a well-composed<br />

rendering of leathery clove and other lively hits of<br />

spice, including black and white pepper. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.9% Price: $34<br />

92<br />

Ottimino Vineyards 2013 Biglieri Vineyard<br />

Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). From a dryfarmed<br />

vineyard planted more than 50 years ago,<br />

this 100% varietal wine is highlighted in compost,<br />

leather and graphite. Well structured, with firm,<br />

strong tannins, it offers a tartness of pomegranate<br />

and black cherry along with a complexity of savory<br />

tobacco leaf. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.8% Price: $37<br />

92<br />

Rosenblum 2012 Carla’s Reserve Zinfandel<br />

(Contra Costa County). Luscious and sleek<br />

in mouthfeel, and drenched with wonderful fruit<br />

flavors, this wine is a beauty. It has ample ripe fruit<br />

flavors like boysenberry and cherry pie without<br />

being literally sweet, while a sense of quiet concentration<br />

lasts on the lingering finish. It is structured<br />

with enough fine-grained tannin to age gracefully,<br />

so it’s best to drink after 2019. Cellar Selection.<br />

—J.G.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $25<br />

92<br />

Sequum 2013 Kidd Ranch Zinfandel (Napa<br />

Valley). Leathery at its core, this small-production<br />

wine is subdued and relatively restrained,<br />

showing bold, juicy layers of strawberry and cranberry.<br />

It offers enviable structure and ability to age.<br />

It will drink best 2023–2028. Cellar Selection.<br />

—V.B.<br />

abv: 14.4% Price: $40<br />

91<br />

Ancient Oak Cellars 2012 Pagnano Vineyard<br />

Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). From estategrown<br />

grapes, this impressive bottling is moderately<br />

spicy, showing a floral flair on the nose. Medium<br />

bodied and soft on the palate, it shines in a depth of<br />

plum, leather and black pepper. —V.B.<br />

abv: 14.7% Price: $35<br />

91<br />

Black Saint Peter 2014 Old Vine Zinfandel<br />

(Lodi). An earthy, black-pepper aroma and<br />

classic blackberry, raspberry and brambly spice<br />

components make this a fine example of Zinfandel.<br />

It is full bodied, mouthfilling and generous in<br />

flavor, benefitting from good acidity and moderate,<br />

fine-grained tannins for structure. Editors’ Choice.<br />

—J.G.<br />

abv: 14.4% Price: $17<br />

91<br />

Graziano 2013 Zinfandel (Mendocino County).<br />

An unusual level of flavor concentration and<br />

density of texture make this wine substantive in<br />

mouthfeel, intriguing in depth, and a good wine to<br />

age for a few years. It has touches of sage and sweet<br />

oak in the aroma, plus full-bore flavors of blackberry<br />

and black cherry on the palate. With great<br />

structure due to firm tannins and acidity, it will be<br />

best to drink after 2019. Cellar Selection. —J.G.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $19<br />

91<br />

Novy 2014 Carlisle Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian<br />

River Valley). Dried sage and a hint of<br />

saddle leather highlight this dry, dusty wine noteworthy<br />

for its bright, buoyant acidity and layering<br />

of red currant. It delivers plenty of full-bodied<br />

flavor within a complex, approachable experience.<br />

—V.B.<br />

abv: 14.7% Price: $34<br />

91<br />

Ottimino Vineyards 2013 Zinfinity Zinfandel<br />

(Sonoma County). For full review see page 15.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />

91<br />

Peachy Canyon 2014 Vortex Zinfandel (Paso<br />

Robles). For full review see page 15.<br />

abv: 14.9% Price: $38<br />

90<br />

Beekeeper Cellars 2014 Secret Stones<br />

Madrone Spring Vineyard Zinfandel (Rockpile).<br />

Smoky and abundant in brambly blackberry<br />

and black cherry, this is a soft, ripe and leathery<br />

wine from a dry-farmed site. Black olive and black<br />

pepper contribute additional complexity and spicy<br />

intrigue, while measured acidity keeps it grounded.<br />

—V.B.<br />

abv: 14.9% Price: $65<br />

90<br />

Gehricke 2014 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley).<br />

For full review see page 18.<br />

abv: 14.8% Price: $30<br />

90<br />

Mike and Molly Hendry 2014 R.W. Moore<br />

Vineyard Zinfandel (Coombsville). From a<br />

terrific, old-vine site in the heart of the southernlying<br />

appellation, this is a mild-mannered, juicy<br />

wine, structured and balanced despite the abundance<br />

of ripe red fruit. Cinnamon and pepper<br />

complement the restrained nature of the brambly<br />

cherry. —V.B.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $38<br />

90<br />

Ottimino Vineyards 2013 Rancho Bello Vineyard<br />

Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). This<br />

is a 100% varietal wine aged in French oak from a<br />

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017

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