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BUYINGGUIDE<br />
94<br />
ZINFANDEL<br />
Robert Biale 2014 Stagecoach Vineyard Zinfandel<br />
(Napa Valley). From the only producer<br />
to source Zin from this famous vineyard, this<br />
wine is abundant in a complexity of baked bread,<br />
blackberry jam and vanilla, with endless depth on<br />
the palate. Fresh and juicy, it balances its fruitiness<br />
with mountain-sized tannin strength and concentration.<br />
—V.B.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $52<br />
94<br />
VGS Chateau Potelle 2013 Zinfandel (Mount<br />
Veeder). Perfumed in a wildness of violet<br />
and lavender, this beautiful wine is rich and smooth<br />
on the palate, both textured and layered. Seductive<br />
in its hint of leathery white pepper, it develops<br />
brambly blackberry-compote flavors as it opens in<br />
the glass. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $65<br />
94<br />
Williams Selyem 2014 Bacigalupi Vineyard<br />
Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). For full<br />
review see page 5.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $58<br />
93<br />
Robert Biale 2014 Valsecchi Vineyard Zinfandel<br />
(Carneros). Meaty and dusty, this wine<br />
from a Vineburg-based site is full bodied, ripe and<br />
voluptuous with a light dusting of black pepper and<br />
clove. Within its cradling of dense concentration, an<br />
underbelly of acidity allows for freshness within the<br />
power. —V.B.<br />
abv: 15.5% Price: $58<br />
92<br />
Alyris 2014 The Audition Mount George<br />
Estate Zinfandel (Napa Valley). Peppery,<br />
brambly, integrated and balanced, this impressively<br />
layered and complex 100% varietal wine highlights<br />
the grape’s ability to be fruity, spicy and soft all at<br />
the same time. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $35<br />
92<br />
Armida 2014 Tina’s Block Maple Vineyards<br />
Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). For full review<br />
see page 9.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $48<br />
92<br />
Artezin 2014 Old Vine Zinfandel (Mendocino<br />
County). For full review see page 9. Editors’<br />
Choice.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $18<br />
92<br />
Haraszthy 2013 Indian Springs Ranch<br />
Reserve Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). This<br />
sultry, big-boned wine offers deft aspects of black<br />
pepper and dried herb atop a softly layered touch of<br />
brown sugar. Richness is there, as is a voluptuous<br />
flirtatiousness, yet it remains dry and dusty on the<br />
palate and classically varietal. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $34<br />
92<br />
Hunt & Ryde 2013 Old Vine Zinfandel<br />
(Sonoma County). For full review see page<br />
10.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $40<br />
92<br />
Jaxon Keys 2013 Estate Michael’s Reserve<br />
Norma’s Vineyard Primitivo (Mendocino).<br />
In this wine, a distinct and delicious blackberryjam<br />
aroma is backed up by concentrated and pure<br />
fruit flavors. But the balance is good and dry, and<br />
the wine has a mouth-filling texture buoyed by finegrained<br />
tannins and full body. This is a wonderful<br />
example of a flavor-packed but sophisticated dinner<br />
wine from this varietal. —J.G.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $24<br />
92<br />
Novy 2014 Limerick Lane Vineyard Zinfandel<br />
(Russian River Valley). This showcases a<br />
highly sought-after vineyard site known for its tension<br />
of big, bold, ripe fruit and notable acidity. Red<br />
currant, cranberry and leather find a well-composed<br />
rendering of leathery clove and other lively hits of<br />
spice, including black and white pepper. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $34<br />
92<br />
Ottimino Vineyards 2013 Biglieri Vineyard<br />
Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). From a dryfarmed<br />
vineyard planted more than 50 years ago,<br />
this 100% varietal wine is highlighted in compost,<br />
leather and graphite. Well structured, with firm,<br />
strong tannins, it offers a tartness of pomegranate<br />
and black cherry along with a complexity of savory<br />
tobacco leaf. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $37<br />
92<br />
Rosenblum 2012 Carla’s Reserve Zinfandel<br />
(Contra Costa County). Luscious and sleek<br />
in mouthfeel, and drenched with wonderful fruit<br />
flavors, this wine is a beauty. It has ample ripe fruit<br />
flavors like boysenberry and cherry pie without<br />
being literally sweet, while a sense of quiet concentration<br />
lasts on the lingering finish. It is structured<br />
with enough fine-grained tannin to age gracefully,<br />
so it’s best to drink after 2019. Cellar Selection.<br />
—J.G.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $25<br />
92<br />
Sequum 2013 Kidd Ranch Zinfandel (Napa<br />
Valley). Leathery at its core, this small-production<br />
wine is subdued and relatively restrained,<br />
showing bold, juicy layers of strawberry and cranberry.<br />
It offers enviable structure and ability to age.<br />
It will drink best 2023–2028. Cellar Selection.<br />
—V.B.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $40<br />
91<br />
Ancient Oak Cellars 2012 Pagnano Vineyard<br />
Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). From estategrown<br />
grapes, this impressive bottling is moderately<br />
spicy, showing a floral flair on the nose. Medium<br />
bodied and soft on the palate, it shines in a depth of<br />
plum, leather and black pepper. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $35<br />
91<br />
Black Saint Peter 2014 Old Vine Zinfandel<br />
(Lodi). An earthy, black-pepper aroma and<br />
classic blackberry, raspberry and brambly spice<br />
components make this a fine example of Zinfandel.<br />
It is full bodied, mouthfilling and generous in<br />
flavor, benefitting from good acidity and moderate,<br />
fine-grained tannins for structure. Editors’ Choice.<br />
—J.G.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $17<br />
91<br />
Graziano 2013 Zinfandel (Mendocino County).<br />
An unusual level of flavor concentration and<br />
density of texture make this wine substantive in<br />
mouthfeel, intriguing in depth, and a good wine to<br />
age for a few years. It has touches of sage and sweet<br />
oak in the aroma, plus full-bore flavors of blackberry<br />
and black cherry on the palate. With great<br />
structure due to firm tannins and acidity, it will be<br />
best to drink after 2019. Cellar Selection. —J.G.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $19<br />
91<br />
Novy 2014 Carlisle Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian<br />
River Valley). Dried sage and a hint of<br />
saddle leather highlight this dry, dusty wine noteworthy<br />
for its bright, buoyant acidity and layering<br />
of red currant. It delivers plenty of full-bodied<br />
flavor within a complex, approachable experience.<br />
—V.B.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $34<br />
91<br />
Ottimino Vineyards 2013 Zinfinity Zinfandel<br />
(Sonoma County). For full review see page 15.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />
91<br />
Peachy Canyon 2014 Vortex Zinfandel (Paso<br />
Robles). For full review see page 15.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $38<br />
90<br />
Beekeeper Cellars 2014 Secret Stones<br />
Madrone Spring Vineyard Zinfandel (Rockpile).<br />
Smoky and abundant in brambly blackberry<br />
and black cherry, this is a soft, ripe and leathery<br />
wine from a dry-farmed site. Black olive and black<br />
pepper contribute additional complexity and spicy<br />
intrigue, while measured acidity keeps it grounded.<br />
—V.B.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $65<br />
90<br />
Gehricke 2014 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley).<br />
For full review see page 18.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $30<br />
90<br />
Mike and Molly Hendry 2014 R.W. Moore<br />
Vineyard Zinfandel (Coombsville). From a<br />
terrific, old-vine site in the heart of the southernlying<br />
appellation, this is a mild-mannered, juicy<br />
wine, structured and balanced despite the abundance<br />
of ripe red fruit. Cinnamon and pepper<br />
complement the restrained nature of the brambly<br />
cherry. —V.B.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $38<br />
90<br />
Ottimino Vineyards 2013 Rancho Bello Vineyard<br />
Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). This<br />
is a 100% varietal wine aged in French oak from a<br />
28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017