The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club

# VOCNA 217 I'm curious if you're going to fit one of these guages to your KSS! I think it would show
quickly if your cam wear issue is oil or hardness related.
# VOCNA 218 That is assuming that the oil actually moves in adequate quantity from the bevel housing
where the guage is reading the pressure, to the cam chest where the oil is doing it's thing. As I recall,
the RH cam bushing is the restriction that causes the pressure to build and it must allow the oil to pass
into the cam chamber. Perhaps a flow test from the drainback lines would give indication of oil
presence.
# VOCNA 219 These are identical to the gauge that is in the Ariel. Cheap and effective. The only
problem is that the bike vibrates the needle so much that I can't get a good reading, much like an
ammeter. Frank is correct of course, knowing the oil pressure inside the top bevel chamber will not tell
me if the cam is being lubricated, only that there is back pressure behind the cam bushing.
Coincidentally, Paul and I were speaking about this after our ride on Saturday. I'll be checking for oil
flow from the cambox drains.... I'll use the oil pressure gauge to verify that sufficient pressure is built up
in the cambox, as dictated by Veloce. But again, this is only telling half the story. I don't plan to leave
the gauge in place, only use it for testing. Who knows, maybe I'll come up with a good location for the
gauge, and leave it there for a few test rides. One chap in the UK recommended using clear plastic
tubing for the cambox drain lines, then I can SEE the oil flow.
# VOCNA 220 Thanks for the dope on the oil gauges - I have several options now and things are
sorting out. Is it possible to fit an oil line up to spray directly on the cam like the early Mk 2s? I really
don't know why Velo discontinued this oil line (in '37 I think), which runs from the top bevel box to a
small nozzle somewhere on top of the head, and sprays oil directly onto the cam face. Dave Poole
sent me some nice drawings and accompanying text showing how to retrofit this to late Mk 2s, but I
have no idea how much work it would be to fit on a Mk 1. I have the drawing digitally, and providing
Dave is OK with it (I can ask him), I could forward them on to anyone who is interested. My latest
roadblock appeared last week when I went to re-fit the oil tank and found someone had lined it with
some kind of sealer and it was cracking and flaking off. I figured this might not be good for lubrication
(that restrictive RH cam bearing being a case in point). So I proceeded to track down a good stripper
(something Gwen did not understand at first), and went to work on it on the weekend. Inevitably, the
reason for the stripper presented itself - pinholes in the top of the froth tower (weird how that could
happen on an oil tank). So tonight I pulled out the torch and solder and had a go cleaning it up and
soldering the pin holes. It seems to have worked and was holding liquid well, and I even got a lick of
paint back on it before coming up to check email. I am almost back to where I was 10 days ago - a
typical rebuild!!
# VOCNA 222 After all the technical stuff is bandied about I thought I might throw in my 2 cents worth.
Just remember that 2 cents doesn t buy much these days but here goes. How many KSS owners do
you think bothered to buy a gauge to measure the oil pressure at the upper bevel drive? Not many me
thinks and I am one of them. I m surprised that Veloce would actually give a specific value to something
like the oil pressure when in general they never bother to spec something so elemental as the cylinder
stud nut torques. Statements like tighten until a gas tight seal is achieved do tend to be a bit vague at
times. In keeping with the Veloce spirit of ambiguous specification I have measured my upper bevel box
oil pressure by loosening the plug about 2 turns while the engine is running. By the time I get to 2 turns
copious amounts of oil are oozing out the plug threads such that the whole timing side is covered in oil.
This necessitates at rapid shutting down of the engine because the process of tightening the bolt while
running will result in an oil slick of Exxon Valdez proportions. My theory is that the pressure sufficient to
push the oil up at least 6 threads in that quantity is more than adequate to push through to the cam.
With 8,000 miles on the engine and no detectable cam wear this theory seems to have a bit of validity.
If I were to only see a small weep I would be very concerned as I would estimate the pressure to be in
the 1-2 psi range. This sophisticated pressure measuring tool is to be found at any store offering a
selection of adjustable wrenches, vice grips and cold chisels.
# VOCNA 230 I must admit that after removing the rockers and looking at the head, it seems that the
119