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The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club

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usually had this combination so your wheel builder sounds OK to me.<br />

# 4823 I believe the difference between the mkII KSS and KTS was the difference in wheel sizes, the<br />

KSS was 21"/20" versus the 19" on the KTS. This is not news I'm sure. I did want to point out that over<br />

the years your machine may have had modifications. My point is that the correct wheel/tyre<br />

combination should fit nicely with the mudgaurds. Machines that have had the wheels converted to<br />

smaller sizes generally don't look right visually with too much of a gap between the tyre and mudgaurd.<br />

# 4824 Some memory in the back of my head of something that I read long ago tells me that the KTS<br />

came supplied with the unlikely WM 3 X 19" rims both ends. I can't quote the citation, but I remember it<br />

as being authoritative.<br />

# 4825 Regards the KTS tire/rim query; I would stick with WM2 front and rear, as a WM3 rim is really<br />

for 4" plus tire sizes, and isn't standard on a prewar bike anyway unless it was a real hauler, like an<br />

Enfield KX or something American (which used small truck tires prewar, it would seem; there must have<br />

been no corners here at the time). I've owned a few Broughs, and they all had WM2/19". Plus, in terms<br />

of handling, you'll probably find the bike is more responsive the narrower the tires you put on, but more<br />

comfortable the wider the tires, which is my general rule for early machines. So, as an example, my '28<br />

Sunbeam has 21"/2.75" front and 20"/3.00" rear wheels, and my mk1 KTT has 21/3.00" on both wheels,<br />

and each handles like a surgeon's knife. <strong>The</strong>y will even go between the Bott's dots on a road warning<br />

grid without a bump (do you have them in England?). <strong>The</strong>se bikes are used for high performance bend<br />

swinging. As a contrast, I use 19"/3.25 and /4" on my Venom, as it's used for more long rallies. I have<br />

used 3.50" on the rear, which really made it corner more quickly, but was generally more nervous<br />

feeling. I would recommend 3.25-50" for the front, and 3.50/4.00" for the rear of your KTS.<br />

L # 5123 I've not had any luck in finding Akront rims suitable for the Velo although one does<br />

routinely find them for other bikes. <strong>The</strong> most readily available rims seem to be the EXCEL valenced<br />

alloy as handled by SRM in the UK and I'm sure these are superior to any other similar rims and will<br />

probably go this way if I can't locate any Dunlops. My Venom presently has original Dunlop steel rims<br />

fitted but I've always loved the valenced alloys.<br />

# 5124 George, Try www.akront.com/ or www.buchananspokes.com/Akront_shld.htm <strong>The</strong>ir S or MS<br />

series (depending on whose web site you look at) valanced alloy rim is the one I used and is a very<br />

good substitute for the period Dunlop or Borrani valanced rims. In the UK they are available from the<br />

Central Wheel Company www.central-wheel.co.uk I gather from their site that the tooling has been<br />

taken over by a company called Morad who, like Akront themselves, are based in Spain. I've not been<br />

able to find a good reference to Excel rims or SRM, but gather that Excels are quite a bit more<br />

expensive than Akronts. Personally I consider that the Akronts are well up to the job, look right, and<br />

there is no reason to go shelling out the extra for the Excel alternative.<br />

L # 6147 I bought a 1938 KSS today and have spent the last couple of hours making lists of<br />

what to do (I'm sure you all understand the feeling). <strong>The</strong> bike itself was restored about 10 years ago,<br />

doesn't seem to have done many miles since then but has been stored in not very good conditions for<br />

the last 7 or so years. Some good pointers - the petrol tank had been filled with oil to stop rust, the oil<br />

tank is full to the brim with clean oil. I've resisted the temptation to turn the engine over and will do the<br />

sensible things about oil circulation etc before trying to start it. I'll let you know how it goes. <strong>The</strong> main<br />

point of this post is about tyres. <strong>The</strong> ones on it look OK but I'm a bit nervous of trusting them on the<br />

basis of their age. I would probably replace the tubes anyway but what about the tyres? <strong>The</strong>re have<br />

been a few posts about the lack of availability of 3.00x21 front and 3.25x20 rear tyres. Anybody got up<br />

to date information about a UK supplier?<br />

# 6148 Tires are now available at Lambrook's in the UK. I got a pair about 6 weeks ago.<br />

L # 6177 I'm restoring my Viper '67, and trying to remove the right hand bearing of the rear<br />

wheel. <strong>The</strong> owners handbook of Haynes, page 114 mentions that the bearing retaining ring has a right<br />

268

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