The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club

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in reverse. What else could you spend that £360 on for the bike? #2929 You could try "floating" the brake shoes. #2934 Don't forget that pre-unit Triumph rear shoes fit the Velo rear brake perfectly, and are already "floating". The cheap, bonded import ones on the back of my Venom worked very well with no bedding-in, and lasted 25k miles. The drum and sprocket were both done by then, but the shoes were not (quite) worn out. L #3042 Just got off the phone to the very helpful folks at the Avon tire company office in Washington state as I was unable to find a new replacement tire for my 1970 Velo Thruxton. Both front and rear rims are 19" WM2. This presents no problems in the front as a 90/90 AM 20 Roadrunner is available, however nothing for the back, without changing to a WM3 19" or WM3 18" rim. Don't really want to switch rims on this bike, although I certainly will to keep riding it. Just wondering if anyone else had come up against this problem and how they resolved it? #3043 Some time ago the famous Geoff Dodkin recommended the following tires for my Thruxton, to which I stuck with best results till today: Front : Avon 90/90 H 19 Roadrunner F2 (a ribbed racing compound) Rear : Avon 4.10 H 19 Roadrunner Universal (use only road compound !) Although the front is a soft racing compound it lasts on the road for appr. 6000 miles. As much as the rear, if you choose road rubber. Once I tried even the rear in racing compound, but this got me only 1000 miles out of it. You will be amazed how handling will be improved with the above tire combination. #3044 I see two possibilities and while I was on the phone ordering a set for a '49 Ajay, I checked stock on both possibilities. Both possibilities in stock!! Tires were ordered from my fav tyre supplier, South West Moto Tires, 1-877-805-8473. With new Metzler tubes, freight free, cost was $186. Ordered AM 20 front "Road Runner" 325-19 TL, fits 2.15 - 3.00 rims AM 18 rear "SuperVenom" 100/90-19 TL, fits 2.15 - 3.00 rims currently used on my '66 Thruxton running Dunlop WM2 alloy rims, and in stock Speedmaster Rib, 3.50 - 19 TT fits 1.85 - 2.50 rims SM MK II, 400-19 TT, fits 2.15 - 3.00 rims. L #4537 Can anyone help with the setting up of a new twin leading shoe assembly I purchased from Grove Classic and which is currently performing at about 10% of the efficiency of the single leading shoe standard set up I have just removed ! The brake is very spongy and lacks feel and bite and is currently not safe for the road. #4539 Quoting straight from the "Red Book" Re-Setting the Brake Shoes. The brake shoes are set when the brake is assembled at the factory, but renewal of the brake shoes will necessitate re-setting. To do this, remove the split pin and withdraw the clevis pin from the yoke end at the top of the adjuster rod. Operate the front brake handlebar lever which will bring one brake shoe in firm contact with the drum and retain the pressure on the lever by securing it to the handlebars by the use of a strong rubber band or other means. Slacken off the two lock nuts on the adjuster rod and apply firm pressure to the top cam operating lever which will bring the second brake shoe in contact with the drum: Hold the cam lever in this position and turn the adjuster rod to a position where the clevis pin can be inserted through the cam lever and yoke end of the adjuster rod. Then re-fit the clevis split pin, tighten up the lock nuts on the adjuster rod and release the pressure on the handlebar lever. Finally, check the brake control cable and carry out any adjustment which may be necessary. #4540 In a recent magazine article it was suggested that if you really want a 2LS to work at its optimum performance it is essential that both brake arms on the back-plate are parallel, otherwise one shoe will get more effort from the handlebar lever than the other one. Do this first then let the shoes bed in. It may take a little time, but when you think about it the end result will be the best brake. If you have had the drum skimmed you may need oversize linings. #4541 First make sure that the outside diameter of the mounted brake shoes is close to the inside diameter of the drum. When you apply the brake, the angle of the lever to the cable should be slightly 266
less than 90 degrees. This should correctly adjust the first (lower) shoe cam. Then the link to the second (upper) shoe cam should be adjusted such that both shoes will meet the drum at the same time. Then ride the bike a little, remove the backing plate, and inspect the wear pattern on each shoe for drum contact. If you don't have full contact, the arc of the shoe does not match the arc of the drum and must be corrected to achieve that condition. The drums are weak and can be distorted by careless tightening of the spokes. The common repair for this is to 'turn' the drum which produces a larger drum ID, which then requires thicker lining turned to fit. L #4818 Currently, the chrome rims from my '39 Mk2 KTS are both WM3s, with 36 spokes at the front and 40 at the rear. The state of the rims means that they both need replacing. My wheel (re)builder suggested I rebuilt the front with WM2 (1/4" narrower apparently) to take a narrower tyre. The spec' in Ivan Rhode's "Technical Excellence Exemplified" suggests the tyres should be 3.25 x 19" (front) and 3.50 x 19" (rear). Should I have the front rebuilt with WM2 or stick with WM3? What was the original size and what would handle best? Should I be fitting 3.25 x 19" (front) and 3.50 x 19" (rear)? (the tyres were already removed when I took over the bike so I don't know what it last ran with) #4820 3.25 front tyre should be on a WM2 rim 3.50 rear tyre on a WM3 rim these old British bikes usually had this combination so your wheel builder sounds OK to me. #4823 I believe the difference between the mkII KSS and KTS was the difference in wheel sizes, the KSS was 21"/20" versus the 19" on the KTS. This is not news I'm sure. I did want to point out that over the years your machine may have had modifications. My point is that the correct wheel/tyre combination should fit nicely with the mudgaurds. Machines that have had the wheels converted to smaller sizes generally don't look right visually with too much of a gap between the tyre and mudgaurd. #4826 I have original Veloce sales brochures from 1938 and 1939. In both years the following rim widths are noted by Veloce: KTS WM3-19; KSS WM1-21 front, WM2-20 rear. #4824 Some memory in the back of my head of something that I read long ago tells me that the KTS came supplied with the unlikely WM 3 X 19" rims both ends. I can't quote the citation, but I remember it as being authoritative. #4825 Regards the KTS tire/rim query; I would stick with WM2 front and rear, as a WM3 rim is really for 4" plus tire sizes, and isn't standard on a prewar bike anyway unless it was a real hauler, like an Enfield KX or something American (which used small truck tires prewar, it would seem; there must have been no corners here at the time). I've owned a few Broughs, and they all had WM2/19". Plus, in terms of handling, you'll probably find the bike is more responsive the narrower the tires you put on, but more comfortable the wider the tires, which is my general rule for early machines. So, as an example, my '28 Sunbeam has 21"/2.75" front and 20"/3.00" rear wheels, and my mk1 KTT has 21/3.00" on both wheels, and each handles like a surgeon's knife. They will even go between the Bott's dots on a road warning grid without a bump (do you have them in England?). These bikes are used for high performance bend swinging. As a contrast, I use 19"/3.25 and /4" on my Venom, as it's used for more long rallies. I have used 3.50" on the rear, which really made it corner more quickly, but was generally more nervous feeling. I would recommend 3.25-50" for the front, and 3.50/4.00" for the rear of your KTS. L # 4818 Currently, the chrome rims from my '39 Mk2 KTS are both WM3s, with 36 spokes at the front and 40 at the rear. The state of the rims means that they both need replacing. My wheel (re)builder suggested I rebuilt the front with WM2 (1/4" narrower apparently) to take a narrower tyre. The spec' in Ivan Rhode's "Technical Excellence Exemplified" suggests the tyres should be 3.25 x 19" (front) and 3.50 x 19" (rear). Q's: Should I have the front rebuilt with WM2 or stick with WM3? What was the original size and what would handle best? Should I be fitting 3.25 x 19" (front) and 3.50 x 19" (rear)? (the tyres were already removed when I took over the bike so I don't know what it last ran with) Many thanks for any advice. # 4820 3.25 front tyre should be on a WM2 rim 3.50 rear tyre on a WM3 rim these old British bikes 267
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1 The Knowledge Being a compendium
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A Diagnosing Troubles A.1 Hard Star
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automatic mag fitted at sometime in
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10celsius and only oil I could get
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enough to slide the left hand in ab
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think I could expect better? I reme
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L #3777 My 1938 MSS has an old AMAL
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Monoblock carburetors, which replac
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L # 4946 I'm having difficulties wi
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in. With the cam timing right, thes
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clear fuel line. Fill the float cha
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coming from (top end, barrel, botto
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A.2. Poor Gear Change - L #3 I have
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use gets shimmed as tightly as I ca
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A.3. Faulty Electrics - L #1 I have
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never have the problem. #3909 First
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the zeners as heat - and using 1/4
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#523 I can't remember where I learn
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L #1042 Was hoping someone could re
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www.croesus-consultants.co.uk/v-tec
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has mentioned the probable cause an
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#2445 The way to set the shimming f
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last as long as tapers. I also went
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and pinned and the preload set up c
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know, - this is no help with a Veno
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L #458 I've just got a +60 piston f
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pistons. #747 If you've melted meta
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have is 2.677 inches. However this
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my home, I started to push it a lit
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B.3. Cylinder Head and Valves - L #
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#509 I cant agree about oiling the
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even more difficult due to the "wav
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wanting to measure everything up be
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and the wells underneath were full
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way. The seats I can get recut, and
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L #3922 I have recently purchased m
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arrangements around the rocker pivo
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you had the minute difference betwe
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chance that the lapping in will be
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# 5973 Originally it would have had
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B.4. Timing Gear and Pushrods - L #
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#1217 Basically the intake valve cl
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end of the rocker. You can then lev
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L #2596 Im rebuilding my '58 Venom
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.052" clearance Exhaust closes 41
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to the housing, either the magneto
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Paul Zell recommended Gary Robinson
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gear must be more than the wattage
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sparkplug hole before storage. I ju
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#604 My good, and lamentably late f
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shop #770 On the oil filters, I wou
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all the oil out straight onto the f
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It's a long story but aircraft engi
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even fully synthetic Formula RS and
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L #3034 A mate of mine has the foll
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how much? Not critical, maybe 0.5"
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skimmed and oversize linings fitted
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the bores in 20 crankcases. Measuri
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# 6249 There was an interesting art
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# VOCNA 217 I'm curious if you're g
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the pump circumference, I put one b
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of preservative. A fellow VOC membe
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has no pipe leading from it. It see
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amount which drops out onto the wal
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the valve, no contact whatsoever !
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B.7. Racing and High Performance -
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it, fit a 86mm cam steady plate wit
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trouble with them seizing but never
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C. The Electrics C.1. Ignition and
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centerline, so a dial indicator tha
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ut when you use the dti like I do,
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and shaft problem. The pointless ma
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#819 Accessory Mart has KLG FE 220
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log/TOOLS.html&CatalogBody Just scr
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#712 if you are such a heathen (lik
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on, the battery might become discha
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to the fibre drive gear as there is
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end of the field connected to the D
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C.4. Lights and Horn - L #381 My re
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Venom/Thruxton is the culprit. I've
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C.5. Electric Conversions - L #23 I
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atteries are black already, if a bi
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een suggested that I go back to Mag
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problems - it is one of the current
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have been caused by the motor kicki
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handlebar switches off a 1960's Hon
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light on, etc would be very useful,
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180 from the stock 200, which at th
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erratic idle and the engine seldom
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new. Is there any reason to switch
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emoving rust stains even on cloth,
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#3332 I fitted a new concentric and
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#4432 Be sure to use a .106" needle
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smallish Triumph twin style K&N wil
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D.2. Fuels - L #180 I have not used
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wouldn't add 20% as this might brin
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E. The Drive Train E.1. Primary Dri
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trouble could come from, and how to
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with the double plates at the drive
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L #1331 My clutch ballrace is bit w
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However the reasoning (?) behind it
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alls. He Loctited the bearing into
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# 5273 Unless I am mistaken turning
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the O.D. not much, just enough for
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of the bearing to give the correct
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study of the 'Diagram of Clutch Ope
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teeth when he had the layshaft with
Page 215 and 216: L #650 Please tell me the parts num
Page 217 and 218: #2613 There are three types of kick
Page 219 and 220: didn't slide back through the seal
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Page 223 and 224: made a partial improvement by movin
Page 225 and 226: and my friend use Castrol GTX many
Page 227 and 228: many of us use. Drag Specialties, P
Page 229 and 230: machines absolutely pristine, it is
Page 231 and 232: L #239 Has anyone tried to use a 52
Page 233 and 234: #285 felt seal case-bulging is norm
Page 235 and 236: need them. #2781 Call me a Doubting
Page 237 and 238: Reynolds, since I never have spent
Page 239 and 240: Japan" on the box, or Regina from I
Page 241 and 242: # 6310 If you own a Velocette, or a
Page 243 and 244: was racing Velos way back, and repo
Page 245 and 246: F. Running Gear F.1. Steering Head,
Page 247 and 248: L #879 Here's a question for the gr
Page 249 and 250: ush and then reverse the fork membe
Page 251 and 252: diameter . I bought a pair of clip
Page 253 and 254: have been produced around the same
Page 255 and 256: Rebound damping also feels insuffic
Page 257 and 258: eprint from Geof Steele the clues a
Page 259 and 260: holes with bronze weld & re- drilli
Page 261 and 262: has very crude looking dimples, so
Page 263 and 264: locates on the extension of the bea
Page 265: Dunlop 3.50 x 19" (rear) Admittedly
Page 269 and 270: hand thread. My brother who owns a
Page 271 and 272: frames. Also saddle top and pillion
Page 273 and 274: colour was called Oxford blue when
Page 275 and 276: seat shell and this will help if I
Page 277 and 278: #2181 If you use a roll pin in plac
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Page 281 and 282: #2857 Paint the iron brake drum sec
Page 283 and 284: don't think any models left the fac
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Page 287 and 288: L # 5492 I am starting a Venom/Vipe
Page 289 and 290: position of the # 5725 My tank pain
Page 291 and 292: # 6011 Here is the part reference f
Page 293 and 294: G.2. Cables, Controls and Instrumen
Page 295 and 296: # 5228 Hi, Vehicle Wiring products
Page 297 and 298: can get the casting welded / streng
Page 299 and 300: levers and preferably ball-end type
Page 301 and 302: fishtail was rotten and not being t
Page 303 and 304: Jiggo effected a temporary fix with
Page 305 and 306: H. Manuals & Spares L #31 By the wa
Page 307 and 308: 01949 836734 they have Mikuni alter
Page 309 and 310: #3958 My old float is a cylindrical
Page 311 and 312: # 6287 Price Productions do an exch
Page 313 and 314: machine, not for starting. Definite
Page 315 and 316: data to hand, mine is a tele/rigid)
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obtained it in 1975 and was even le
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#2951 When assembling my VMT 334, w
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odd one mixed in when I rebuilt my
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port through the Winter, only occas
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