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The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club

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turned down at one end for a length of about one inch to the inside diameter of the guide less about 10<br />

thou of inch for a light easy sliding fit. I placed the head in the kitchen oven at 150 degrees for half an<br />

hour ( make sure it is absolutely clean with no oily traces - wash with Gunk or similar and rinse with lots<br />

of fresh water or your significant other will never forgive you). Take immediately to the bench and have<br />

a pal hold the head steady and you'll find a few sharp blows on the drifts with a good size hammer will<br />

take the guides out easily (don't pussy foot around at this stage as the head will be rapidly cooling). To<br />

fit guides follow same procedure but also place guides in freezer first for an hour and I also rubbed a<br />

smear of light oil on them. As to how far to have the guides protruding into the rocker cover area, I have<br />

had conflicting advice as to what is advised in the workshop manual. However both heads had the old<br />

valve guides protruding about three eights of an inch into this area and I set the new ones to the same<br />

height as there seemed to be plenty protruding into the combustion chamber for support at this setting.<br />

#4703 <strong>The</strong>re has been some good advice posted concerning guide replacement, but I did want to<br />

address your question of doing it yourself. <strong>The</strong> procedure itself is not terribly difficult. To me the issue is<br />

that when the guide is badly worn, then the valve and seat mating surfaces will be in need of work as<br />

well. <strong>The</strong> old workbooks recommended lapping the valve with a light grinding paste after guide<br />

replacement, which might be ok if the guide was not badly worn...., but. With modern(ish) tools, this is<br />

best accomplished by recutting the seat and valve using the new valve guide, using tools not usually<br />

available in a home shop. <strong>The</strong> issue is getting a good mating surface to form both a good seal and also<br />

allow transfer of heat away from the valve head to the valve seat. So while the guide replacement is<br />

something you could do, recutting the seat and grinding the valve face to correct angles is not. That is<br />

the reason I think most Veloists have the valve, seat and guide repaired by a machine shop.<br />

#4693 I have changed valve guides in my 54 MAC with no problems. I have a shouldered punch which<br />

knocked them out with no trouble. Valve seats I haven't recut before as I don't have the tools. If you<br />

need new seats then you might as well have the whole job done in one go.<br />

#4694 Replacing a valve guide is easy-peasy! You will need a suitable drift and also a gauge to know<br />

when the new guide is in far enough. Heat the head - to 'spitting' heat i.e. when a ball of water will<br />

bounce around on the head and no hotter. With the head on a solid location - I use a wooden board on<br />

concrete floor - drift the guide down into the port (not the other way round as there will be some carbon<br />

etc that will not be removed.) <strong>The</strong> new guide goes into the freezer for a while. <strong>The</strong> drift to fit the<br />

replacement needs to go over the outside of the guide and preferably have a spigot inside to locate<br />

nicely. Heat the head and again fit the guide from above- i.e. from the valve spring side. Tap it in to the<br />

correct point 0.343" above the lower face. After this the valve seat needs to be re-cut using the new<br />

guide as a reference. It's not too difficult and was a task that just about every owner would have done<br />

up to a few years ago. Read the workshop manual first. And get a decent sized lump hammer - makes<br />

the 'drifting' in & out so much easier!<br />

#4720 Valve guide removal should always be done from the combustion chamber side. Ed G. has an<br />

assortment of Venom cylinder heads that have been broken by attempting to drive a guide out<br />

downward. <strong>The</strong> top of the guide is often deformed during installation and may not go through the bore<br />

easily. I prefer to tap the top and install an old bolt; then after heating the head a long punch can be<br />

used to push the guide out. This avoids damaging the guide bore in the head. Installation is helped if<br />

you have the correct stepped drift, this is easily turned from a piece of brass. Drive the new guide in<br />

from the top. <strong>The</strong> head must be hot (275 - 300 F.), the guide cold. MAC guides and VM/VR intakes can<br />

be turned from Harley ones, they are readily available in many ODs, in .001" steps. I've used bronze<br />

Ampco 45 guides for '84 - '99 Evo twins with success. <strong>The</strong>y only need to be shortened a bit. Having the<br />

correct OD can be important, a mate's <strong>Club</strong>man once had its exhaust guide exit via the fishtail - in<br />

pieces and in public.<br />

#4704 <strong>The</strong> 'accepted' way to do the job these days is to have the seat re-cut. This can be done at<br />

home. Use the right tooling & its easy. However, before we were all educated, the way it was done is to<br />

fit the new guide & grind the valve in as normal. If the valve & seat make good contact you need go no<br />

further. As the Velo guides are a simple and normally accurate concentric turning there is a very good<br />

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