The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club

#2951 When assembling my VMT 334, with 3 shims, I used Hylomar Aero Grade between each of the
three metal shims and zero paper gaskets. Hylomar was also used between crankcase halves. In
almost 7,000 miles last year, this bike has remained dry, save for an early weep at the upper two piece
push rod tube/head mating. This joint was remade with Three Bond gasket goo and has not weeped
since. I'd not add any additional spacers.
#2948 1 When I put my shiny black barrel and shiny polished head back on do I need new studs and
nuts(the four long ones).
#2949 No - if youre nuts are in good nick you don't need new ones
#2952 You can squeeze the nuts in a vice or tap them with a hammer. This will compress the Nylon
and give a better "second-hand" lock. As a matter of principle we always use new cylinder holding
down nuts. And always fit new O-Ring seals under the washers.
L #3167 Hi All, I have an interest in purchasing a basket case 1966 MSS. Can anyone tell me
what the differences would be from a Venom? Basically all that is there is an engine and frame. What
kind of wheels, g\box, fenders,tank etc would it have had?
#3168 There are a lot of differences between a 66 VM and MSS. Mainly in terms of hubs, (half width),
mudguards (what is a fender - around a fireplace?) black enameled steel with valances, mudguard
stays. The engine is nearly the same and it may have a lower compression ratio and M17/7 cam. Gear
ratios could be 14/ prefix or 12/ - depending on buyer's spec. None of the 'clubman' spec parts are
appropriate. I suggest you find a few photos and have a look.
#3169...also the MSS 1 1/16" port and carb.
#3170 Different cylinder head, piston, cams, carb, barrel length, for the motor (but by '66 more and
more bits were the same). Probably a wide ratio prefix 14 box and some different bits of tinware. Hubs
& brakes were the same as Venom by then. However basics are the same. Engine should be MSS
13xxx and frame RS 18xxx or 19xxx. You can build it pretty much as you like, depending how much
you want to spend. Don't forget that by that date, the MSS was the rarest of the singles- 48 MSS, 53
Viper, 157 Venom and 224 Thruxton, according to Ivan Rhodes' book, made in 1966. Not a lot. The
MSS is not a motorway bike, more a machine for the twisty back roads.
L #3318 Hello All, I'm fighting for months against an oil seepage on my 1957 Venom : starting
from cold, after 5 to 10 minutes, running or idling, oil begins to leak from the lower rear timing cover
screw, the one close to the oil pump. I try several remedies : surfacing the cover, mounting the screw
with various washers (copper, aluminium, Dowty), different gasket thickness, various sealing
compounds, loctited screw...It doesn't change anything. Some clues : the oil pump bore has been
sleeved; the paper gasket shows a good contact in this area between the case and cover; there is a
steel insert (not helicoil) in the tapped hole, loctited. I think oil leaks as soon as the oil fills the chest to
the level of this screw, but can't understand which way it takes. Has someone experience this already ?
Any idea will be very welcome.
#3319 Is the screw too long and not tightening up the cover? Is it the cover or the case? Tried fitting
another cover? Is there a hairline crack somewhere?
L #3505 Hi, is there a preferred method to place the engine back in the frame? Must the G\box
and engine be installed together? From which side is it better to work from?
#3509 I have found it best to install with the gearbox attached and from the nearside (primary). It is
awkward but possible to do with the engine fully assembled if you don't mind knocking chunks out of
the frame paintwork (bitter experience !). It goes in better and is a lot lighter without the head and barrel
assembled.
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