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The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club

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L #4164 Does any one have the specifications for ramp height for the engine shock absorber and<br />

sprocket? If assembled without the spring should there be room for the two ramps to turn over the<br />

peaks? mine can and has about 25 thou clearance as well. I believe this unit to be the cause of my<br />

"clutch slip". Everything seems to be in order with other used items I and my friend have to hand. Can<br />

any one shed some light on this assembly? Has anyone had their unit fail. I’ve heard about broken<br />

springs but mine is intact though again I don’t know what the free length should be. I stripped the clutch<br />

down and found the outer friction plate tangs were fouling the clutch cover plate, (new bonded plates<br />

used)I straightened the tangs and reassembled with confidence. Ran the bike without the outer<br />

chaincase and found that it seems to be the shock absorber is spinning at mid revs on full throttle. At<br />

this engine speed you don’t get the machine gun noise which is why the clutch became prime suspect<br />

in the first place. Your experiences will be appreciated.<br />

#4166 I don't believe that the ramps should be able to clear each other. Sounds like your drive side<br />

shaft is pulling out of the flywheel, a common failure corrected by installation of a 'nail head' shaft.<br />

#4167 I'm not sure, but I don't think it matters... if the spring breaks it will still be too wide for the ramps<br />

to pass each other. I had the spring break once on my Thruxton.. at low throttle openings it made an<br />

awful racket and vibrated a lot, but once opened up things smoothed out. Fortunately only 15 miles<br />

from home and I had a spare spring. Had the 'nail head' mod done by Dodkins when my big end went<br />

some years ago as a precaution. Apparently the old shaft had pulled out some 20 thou or so.<br />

#4172 <strong>The</strong> factory drawing show the ramp height to be 0.250" +/- .010" above the face, or 0.406"<br />

trough to peak. I am referring to the shock absorber - the sprocket from peak to face is 0.375". From<br />

peak to trough on the sprocket is 0.406". <strong>The</strong> factory drawing show the ramp height to be 0.250" +/-<br />

.010" above the face, or 0.406" trough to peak.<br />

#4168 Can't be that the shaft is pulling out, I had the flanged mainshaft fitted. Checked the free length<br />

against one of the original shafts and it appears about the same, well within a few thou. So does if it<br />

rides over the peaks like mine., is it worn? or has the spring suddenly lost it's temper?<br />

#4179 I have experienced shock absorber clutch slip, the symptoms of which where not so much<br />

machine gun as gear teeth stripping noise. my problem was caused by drive side main shaft slowly<br />

eating its way though n/side flywheel causing extra clearance in shock absorber assy. <strong>The</strong> engine ran<br />

well still!! the way to check is looking down onto big end, both end of main shafts should be flush with<br />

inside faces of flywheels, my drive side one was 3 to 4mm below.<br />

L #4479 Hello group, is there anybody who has used a carillo rod in a venom/viper engine? I'm<br />

just in the process of lifting a venom engine to it's next tuning level and as the con rod seems to be<br />

damaged after 90k miles of (hard?) service it might be worth a try. However, there is no Velo rod in the<br />

Carillo catalogue but I remember somebody mentioned to use one in his (racing?) engine. Any<br />

information appreciated.<br />

#4480 Still got one in my racing Venom, contact Nick Payton and he can identify/ supply it.<br />

L #4723 Does anyone known what the right size crankshaft oil jet is for a Venom with the early<br />

type crankshaft fitted? <strong>The</strong>re seem to be 2 different bore dia. in my collection of parts. One is bored<br />

approx. 2.3 mm and the other about 3.3 mm. Which one to use?<br />

#4743 0.078" with a tolerance of +0.003<br />

L # 6353 I am in the process of rebuilding an old MOV engine, and needed to replace the main<br />

bearings (Both roller bearings). I removed the inner races by teasing out the rollers, lifting off the cage,<br />

and slotting a large open ended spanner over the roller channel, placing a fulcrum in the form of a 3/8<br />

stud under the spanner as close to the bearing as possible, and whacking the spanner. Both came<br />

straight off a lot quicker and easier than grinding through them as the last time I did this operation. ( I<br />

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