The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club

Dunlop 3.50 x 19" (rear) Admittedly, this was mostly on corrugated, pot-holed gravel roads, and I used
to shove her along a bit.. Would modern tyres be any different? The roads certainly are.
#2271 As rubber has improved, it seems to grip the rims well in - in addition to the road! I have raced
with chrome wheels and alloy and never had any need to use security bolts. Different with a more
powerful machine perhaps but even a Manx was OK.
#2398 I had a rapid deflation on the freeway years ago, which required the use of three lanes to
prevent falling, due to the tyre beads falling into the center well of the rim. Since that time, I have
installed two rimlocks (balanced) on everything I ride. This summer, during the first morning of the US
Club rally, one of the members had a rapid deflation which put him in and out of the hospital due to lack
of rimlocks for the week of the rally. I saw him at an event a couple of months later, and his bike
sported rimlocks. Obviously, this won't happen to everyone, but why take the risk?
L #2325 Hello list. Who do you like for wheel rim replacement and rebuilding? (48MAC) I don't
mind buying rims from the UK but I hate to send the wheels that far for rebuilding. Anyone here in the
US?
#2326 Buchanan in California is supposedly among the best here in the States:
www.buchananspokes.com/
#2356 I believe that Ed Gilkenson's business, Velocette Repair Service, in Lakebay, Washington does
wheel building. I've dealt with him for years and he is one straight-up guy.
L #2912 My Viper (1955)is in need of a new wheel rim so thinking of fitting a twin leader brake
instead of the original, is it a simple matter of just swapping drums or do I need to do any mods to the
fork leg? Also can twin leader drums still be obtained new if so from where? Finally is it a worthwhile
conversion on a bike to be used just for touring?
#2913 Mike at Grove Classics( 01582 )873066 has remanufactured the Thruxton type TLS which is a
straight swap!!
#2914 If your Viper has a full width hub you need only to change the backing plate assembly. I did this
on my '67 Venom, thought the TLS would help coming down our big mountain passes, two-up. To tell
the truth, the original well-bedded SLS was its equal. It also works when backing up - unlike the TLS.
The soft linings on the TLS didn't last very long, either. But the TLS sure looks sexy!
#2915 Same drum, different backing plate. I've had both types and I think that the VM/VR brake is
adequate for everything except high performance use. If yours doesn't work well it may be time for new
linings and careful setup. These drums are not able to withstand kludgey lacing and will pull oval by
over-tightening of the spokes, giving a pulsing feel to the lever. This can be corrected by a minimal
turning of the drum in a fully trued wheel and oversized or shimmed linings to match.
#2916 If I remember correctly you may also have to change to the Thruxton front fender stays of which
the right hand one is slightly cranked to clear the top cam arm. I concur with the fact that the TLS brake
only works when you are going forwards, making hill starts on steep inclines a case of juggling feet! But
I found the brake to be quite a bit better than the single leader if fitted with racing quality linings (I
originally used Ferodo AM4 material although this is no longer available - a brake lining specialist
should be able to advise a modern equivalent), machined to size to match the drum and correctly
assembled and adjusted.
#2919 As an alternative to new a stay you can simply use a ½ inch spacer
#2923 Grove Classic have them in their stock list - £299.00 + VAT + Postage I agree with Tom Ross, a
correctly set up sls with good linings is as good as the 2ls and I've raced on both. And the sls is better
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