The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club

cables using modern Japanese clutch cable assy.s & they work really good if properly made up. All the
above needs a thinking approach at every point, don't ignore even the smallest indication of lost
movement.
L #3653 I have a small bag with 88 clutch plate inserts (C25-2) that I bought from Lou Branch in
Los Angeles in 1974 (?). Price marked on the bag is $11.44 :-) The material is not cork, looks like
Ferodo and in great condition. What dimensions should I size them to before pressing them into the
clutch plates? Any suggestions on how to size them? I plan on running a dry primary case.
#3654 If these are the original parts, they will be only slightly bigger than the square holes they fit into.
Just press them in to alternate holes, turn the plate over and fill in the gaps. This helps to keep the
plate central as the inserts are then slightly oversize on alternate sides. When all in, assemble all the
plates in your hands, then squeeze the whole lot in a vice a little at a time turning the clutch in the vice
as you go. This will get all the inserts level with each other. It may pay to wear a face mask as I don't
know if these may contain asbestos. Should be OK running dry, but don't expect too long a life from the
chain ( or have you belt drive?) Good luck, Bob PS older clutches with 3 friction plates had thicker
inserts, The fact you have 88 suggests yours are the thinner 4 friction plate sort.
#3658 Yes they are slightly bigger so I'll just press them in (I'm sure easier said than done!)....I'm
refurbishing an MSS for city use and feel good chain lube should be sufficient for the lower speeds and
short trips.
#3660 In years gone by when Velocettes were in daily use, we had the ' 88 inserts' & they were
seldom replaced in normal use, as to chain lubrication, the primary case always seemed to be filled
with oil from the engine mainshaft leakage, & at times lubricating the rear chain with the surplus, rather
than needing more oil ! This situation varied with the model & the amount of wear/use. There was also
the problem (?) of washing the model every Sunday morning with the kerosine brush & the garden
hose, & this procedure invariably introduced water ( & kerosine), into the chaincase via the openings ,
the result, after a few weeks there was certainly a pool of watery gunk at the bottom of the primary
case, with the lube (?) floating on top ! - If you were into riding through shallow creeks or flooded
roads, I had a local main road that often had 6 inches or more of water running across it after a Winter
downpour, - there was also the water intrusion problem. The answer to this was to fit a drain at the
lowest point of the outer primary chaincase, & I don't doubt that many of you have bought a Velo with
this drain already in place. (did any later models have this fitted ?) This meant that you could drain the
case at intervals & at least give the chain some good fresh oil ! As for clutch slippage problems with the
old type inserts, I can't recall ever having any, the clutch seems to keep itself free of oil by centrifugal
action, even if it became overfull, maybe we were lucky in those far off days, or the oil & the (asbestos
?) composition that the designers had arrived at from the 'suck it & see' method was quite efficient,
whatever, in years of Velo riding, - & side carring I can't ever remember having clutch slippage
problems that related to oil in the primary chaincase, - Maybe I was just lucky?
#3714 What is the trick to removing the ball bearings from the clutch ballrace assembly? Is the opening
crimped in any way once they are all installed or do I just need to apply more pressure when removing
them. It feels like a piece of foreign matter is caught in there and flushing doesn't remove it. Any
suggestions are appreciated.
#3716 I have never found a way of getting the balls out of the ballrace, after all, they're designed to stay
in there! I would suggest however that if you can't sort out the problem by flushing and blowing out with
an air line, then the chances are that the races themselves are damaged and the only solution will be
replacement.
#3731 I have stripped a big race bearing. It was a little loose, and the problem was to line up the two
half-holes on one ball. I don't remember how I did it which normally means it wasn't too difficult. If the
balls are 3/16", this is 0.1875". An oversize 5mm ball would be 0.19685" but I don't know if you would
go through the hardening at that figure. A friend did grind oversize, just a touch, but used the original
202