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The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club

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hand thread. My brother who owns a MSS tells me that his workshop manual mentions a lefthand<br />

thread! Because some force is required for removing my ring and I want to avoid to demolish this ring<br />

or inner thread, I would like to know what is right? Do I have a left- or right-hand thread?<br />

# 6178 I have just checked a wheel from my Thruxton. <strong>The</strong> bearing retaining ring unscrews by turning<br />

it CLOCKWISE .<br />

# 6180 Haynes strikes again...that's a left handed thread. Nice photos, but not 100% accurate. <strong>The</strong><br />

Red Book, or "Service Manual" as published by Veloce Limited, is indispensable. You can order a copy<br />

from most dealers. Or ask your brother to make a copy, if it lists the Viper model on the cover.<br />

L # 6203 Anyone got any tips on how to remove the rear wheel bearings ?<br />

# 6205 <strong>The</strong> outer bearing races can be a bit tough to get out. Sometimes you can knock them out, by<br />

hitting a drift passing through the hub center from the opposite side. If they are tight in the hub, run a<br />

few beads of weld onto the race surface. As the weld cools, it shrinks, and pulls the bearing race<br />

smaller. <strong>The</strong>n it will fall out of the hub. Careful with the weld though. Stick welding will throw weld<br />

spatter all over your hub. TIG or MIG are cleaner to use.<br />

# 6204 You cant do much better than read the instruction book.<br />

L # 6202 1) I have a 350 rigid MAC from around 1940, question is would the wheel rims be<br />

chrome or would they be black? 2) I have girder/webb forks so the speedo would be on the front hub.<br />

BUT my bike also has a speedo drive on the rear hub. If I use the front speedo drive then can I remove<br />

the rear speedo drive, if so, do I need a spacer or are the rear hubs different for speedo and nonspeedo?<br />

e.g. Were the hubs different widths?<br />

# 6208 My 1954 MAC originally had shiny chrome on the outsides with dull chrome in the middle. Also<br />

had black spokes. But 1940 versions would probably have been different. Wartime lack of shiny stuff?<br />

# 6209 I know the KSS had chrome rims in 1939 with black painted spokes. I have a photograph that<br />

suggests that they may have a dull chromed - but I can't be sure. (Note the difference between bright<br />

chrome and dull chrome was determined by the whether or not the nickel plate, used before final<br />

chroming, was manually polished or not. <strong>The</strong> nickel plate used today has brighteners which avoids the<br />

need to perform this polishing step) <strong>The</strong> 1937 KSS model has the black centers with bright chrome<br />

edges. Some people say there was also a gold line as well but I see no evidence of this on my very<br />

original 1937 My 1937 KSS is the similar to yours having a rear speedo drive. Up until Dowety(?) front<br />

forks, all were delivered with front wheel speedo drive. I have a letter from Ivan Rhodes which states<br />

the conversion to rear drive was an after-market conversion and that he has seen a number of bikes so<br />

converted. I have not taken mine apart yet to see how it is different from the drawings in the service<br />

manual. Mine has rear speedo drive and what looks like a standard spacer. I cannot confirm this but<br />

the gear ratio between from and rear drive may be different. This will affect the indicated speed.<br />

However, I am also told that the speedometer internal gearing can be changed to suit. Mine does not<br />

have the original speedo. It's 80mph Smiths speedo was probably fitted sometime in the 50's (only<br />

shows 800 miles). Perhaps the front to rear conversion happened when the original speedo failed? I<br />

would be interested to know the dimensions of the rear hub on a 1936-40 rigid frame machine to verify<br />

the originally of the rear hub on my KSS._<br />

# 6210 I just had a look at my 1936 brochure and it lists chrome rims as an extra<br />

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