The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club

immediately the engine starts. The ratchets make a little noise just before disengaging when the engine
is running, and this has occasionally caused enquiry. It is quite normal and can be disregarded. After a
few moments' running, open the air valve gradually, otherwise the engine will begin to fire irregularly,
usually missing about every other beat (eight stroking) and black smoke will come from the exhaust.
After starting a new engine, or if the main oil feed pipe has been disturbed, the oil circulation must be
checked. All normal running is done with the air valve full open. Do not close it when re-starting a hot or
warm engine.
OBSTINACY IN STARTING.- During cold or damp weather the engine may fail to start because the
high tension cable is wet and dirty or the outside insulation of the sparking plug coated with mud. This
provides a path for the high tension current from the magneto to leak to earth and diminishes the
intensity of the spark at the plug points. Clean the affected parts with a dry rag. Excessive flooding of
the carburettor in a cold engine, normal flooding when hot, or leaving the machine leaning over to the
right with the fuel turned on, can all make the mixture too rich to fire readily and will prevent starting.
Rectify by opening the throttle and air controls fully and rotating the engine several times as quickly as
possible with the kick starter to clear the over-rich mixture from the cylinder. In an extreme case of
over-flooding the fuel should be turned off until after the engine has started. After clearing as
described, close the twist grip, and, leaving the, air control full open, make another attempt to start. If
unsuccessful, take out the sparking plug, and clean the internal insulation and firing points thoroughly.
They may be wet with unvaporized fuel. Check the point gap and if necessary reset to OW to .023' and
rotate the engine several times to clear the combustion chamber before replacing the plug. Provided
that the trouble is not of a more serious nature necessitating workshop attention the engine should
start.
MOVING OFF- Allow an engine which has been started from cold to run a few moments before running
it up to high speed. A fast idling speed is best, and will allow the oil time to reach all parts. It used to be
the rule to run an engine very slowly to warm it up, but nowadays it is considered better to drive off
without any lengthy preliminary warming up. Obviously a machine just started from cold should not be
opened up to high speed right away even if the engine has been run in.
L #2030 I am planning to resurrect my Venom, after approximately 25 years of sitting in various
garages I have owned. As becomes my advancing years I was planning to rebuild it in a more standard
Venom form than the clubman style it is currently in. The question is what to do about the engine and
gearbox. At first I was thinking of a professional rebuilt but it's pricy and also takes a long time. As an
alternative I was thinking of checking what the head and piston looks like and check out the state of the
big end. (All this was good when I stopped riding it) I was thinking I would check out the engine first
before moving on to the electrics, clutch esthetics etc. I am planning to have the mag rebuilt, and
clearly oil/fuel/carb/pipes etc need to be cleaned and/or replaced. I would like to avoid a bottom end
rebuild if possible. Is there anything I could do to flush the engine Are there specific problems that I
need to be aware of or things I should do before proceeding along this "incremental restoration" route?
#2033 It seems an "as necessary" approach could work here. Has it had oil in it all this time and will it
kick over? If so, then set the valves and check for compression. If that turns out well move to the
sparkplug {probably get a new one}, and if that's working go to the oil tank and change the filter, along
with new fluids all round. The carb will require a dunking in a can of carb cleaner and reassembly. The
fuel tank and lines would also need cleaning. At this point the thing could start. If it does the tyres and
chains should be looked at for serviceability. Battery, lights,cables, etc. Easy first ride - gearbox noises,
wheel bearings, steering head bearings... Check it out slowly and change fluids often. Maybe all this is
too much to hope for, but it'd be more fun to ride for a while than to just tear it apart and throw money at
it.
L #2234 I am beginning the restoration of my old bike and would appreciate people's advice on
various points. Please bear in mind that I am aiming for a working bike, am not intending to ever show
or sell the machine. I am not too troubled by the concept of originality as the bike was a bitsa when I
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