The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club
The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club
The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club
You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
#3793 Closer exam (with a magnifying glass) shows tiny but undoubtful marking on the ex valve. What<br />
surprises me is how small it is, versus inlet valve badly damaged. Inlet is marked M2/7, ex. M2/17N80.<br />
Could Nimonic valve be so much harder than inlet material? So, or the springs are too weak, or the<br />
chronometric tacho pessimistic and I over revved, or both.<br />
#3801 All you ever want to know about valves can be found here<br />
www.gsvalves.co.uk/technical_information.htm (download the pdf). G&S have manufactured valves<br />
since the 40's, they manufacture valves for the VOC, Grove et al. <strong>The</strong> guys there are really helpful, and<br />
rather than telling me to "go away" when I stretched and tuliped a valve that may not even be of their<br />
manufacture, they were really interested and wanted to help. Regarding Aluminium valve caps, most of<br />
the UK Velo racers use Nick Payton valve caps and springs and as yet I know of no one who has had a<br />
failure. PS Nick springs are of Porsche origin. You need to set the installed lengths to 1.310 exhaust,<br />
1.340 inlet. On a Venom or Viper this will probably require machining a counter bore in the head and<br />
lining it with a shim to set the length and avoid hammering the Ali.<br />
#3784 Just a small point re rotating valves. Veloce designed the collar arrangement to allow the valves<br />
to rotate and thus even out wear etc. It is possible that the inlet valve can be struck by the exhaust<br />
valve with some enthusiastic over-revving. If the springs are tired this happens more easily. Also, is the<br />
valve timing correct?<br />
#3787 Well, <strong>Velocette</strong> may have said that the design would allow the valves to rotate, but that doesn't<br />
mean that the valves actually did. A careful examination of the striking points on the ends of my<br />
extensive collection of used valves shows line contact from the rocker on most of them. And the ones<br />
that do show wear all around on the striking point would do so after removal (to reseat) and<br />
reinstallation. While it's true that the valve and collar assembly is not prevented from rotating, the only<br />
way that they could rotate is if the spring pressure was released during operation, like during valve<br />
float, eh? Even then, they would have to have something to cause them to start twirling in the guide,<br />
wouldn't they? And what would that be? No, it looks like a propitious sales gimmick to me. " By golly,<br />
the way those collars are designed would allow rotation, no? Well let's advertise it as a benefit, then"<br />
#3794 Do you have / can you share any more details on HOW to make a coil spring conversion or point<br />
me / us towards a source.<br />
#3795 <strong>The</strong> easiest way is to contact Nick Payton on 0208 540 2118 and ask him.<br />
#3884 I copied a Webco (US) alu alloy coil spring conversion in titanium, using B50 BSA (Goldstar)<br />
springs. <strong>The</strong> Webco conversion of top and bottom spring seats retained by the Velo split collets were<br />
known to fail due to the shallow wedge angle of the Velo collets pulling through the soft alloy collars.<br />
Absent a Webco kit to copy in titanium, you'll have to get a set of the springs that you want to use and<br />
define the configuration of the necessary collars, turn them up and install. Or buy a set that I'm told that<br />
Nick Payton offers in England. <strong>The</strong> critical points are that the springs are compressed to within<br />
.060"-.100" of coilbind at full lift (max. Tighter will lead to failure) and the seat pressure should be in the<br />
area of 80-100#, with 220-240# at full lift. You can check these numbers on a bathroom scale under a<br />
pillar drill. After making the titanium spring seats (collars), shim under the bottom one to get the<br />
installed height correct and use a phenolic insulating washer under the exhaust spring seat in order to<br />
prevent heat damage to the spring.<br />
L #3897 Members may know from previous requests for help that I am putting a MKII KSS engine<br />
in a Viper spring frame. I have to make a new head steady for the KSS in the spring frame as the frame<br />
lug is further back. <strong>The</strong> old steady of tube with flattened ends has one hole elongated. Was that to<br />
allow for variability in manufacture or for the engine to move?<br />
#3899 Make your head steady to fit with round holes. <strong>The</strong> idea is to hold the top end still, not let it<br />
shake about. I have a KSS / RS hybrid and I love it.<br />
70